Electrical Wiring for a TBucket


Nice that I don't have to worry about having some resistance on "L" connection.

Can you provide part numbers so others will know when they can also do the same?

 
The T-bucket has an idiot light bulb.
I would use along with voltmeter.
Just period correct.
Your CS144 build photos has part number.
Also taught not to make it too easy for others.
Always keep a few secrets for yourself.
That way I stay Usefull till I am dead Rick.
Just the Italian Sicilian way.
Now everyone knows how the CS144 build should look inside taken apart.

BR
 
I'm moving onto other winter time projects Rick.
Dana 60 build. 3 1957-58 Pontiac Olds 9.3 Rear Diff builds for my card.
 
I'm moving onto other winter time projects Rick.
Dana 60 build. 3 1957-58 Pontiac Olds 9.3 Rear Diff builds for my cars.
 

I know it must look like I'm scared to finish it, cause then I would have to drive it! :lol:

I'm hoping February will be the magic month !!!

 

I hope to post some more meaty info soon, but for now and in no particular logical sequence ......

FP04_FanWiring01_5034.jpg

The fan ground wire was 14 AWG, but I used 12 AWG to extend the wire to a ground
point on the frame. The barrel connector was for 10-12, so I stripped and extended
both wires completely thru the barrel connector. Then I crimped and soldered the
connection and sealed with heat shrink.

FP04_FanWiring02_5035.jpg
FP04_FanWiring03_5036.jpg


The braided sleeve is a bit fragile when it comes to heat. I couldn't use a lighter of
any kind or it would immediately burn thru the sleeving. So I bought this heat gun
from Harbor Freight. It has worked well so far and plenty of adjustment. The low
heat setting has a slower fan than the high heat setting. It even has a cool down cycle,
when you turn it off, it runs the fan for another 60-120 seconds.

It stands up for hands free operation.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-interva ... -9184.html

FP04_HeatGunHarborFreight#69343_5043-44.jpg

 
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Looking Great Rick.
Do Sub Assembly wiring work.
Then connect alltogether.
Hand scetched wiring schematic eliminates errors for me.
Sure you made a full Color printout.
Put NASA Engineers to shame.

Real fancy heat gun.
Nicer than my Snap On.
It does not have LED bar graph heat setting lights.
Gets real hot though . Up to 1400 F. Scary hot.
 

Got lucky, the alternator went in without any modifications. With a couple
Gates #7420 V-Belts, I'm good to go in that area.

The fan positive wire is only 12 AWG, but I ran a 8 AWG wire from the fan
controller's 10 AWG wire to make the connection. Seems strange that the
fan ground wire is only 14 AWG, since the current is the same everywhere
in the circuit. I used 10 AWG for the 12 inches I needed to get to the frame.

FP05_Alternator&VBelts_5055.jpg
FP05_WiringToFanFinished_5064.jpg


It's hard to find Adel clamps with larger mounting holes than 1/4 inch, so I had
to enlarge one so I could use a 3/8 inch motor mount hole. The clutch ball
mounting hole is 1/2 inch, which is larger than the available material. So I made
my own Adel clamp. If you look closely you can see the rubber washer between
the engine and the clamp to keep heat away from the wires. Actually it's a rubber
washer for a garden hose.

FP05_WiringSupportToAlternator_5054.jpg

Now that I'm finished at the front of the car, I moved the the other end of the
wiring under the seat where the fan controller and battery is located.

No body makes a ring or spade connector for 8 AWG, so I opened up a 10-12
AWG slightly to get the wire in the connector, then I closed it back around the
wire. Next I crimped it, soldered it and installed heat shrink. I crimped,
soldered and heat shrinked all connections.

FP05_FanAlternatorUnderSeatWiring01_5061.jpg

Notice the old 10 AWG wire that charged the battery from the old 10SI alternator. Now
I'm using a 4 AWG wire from the Custom Built by Brian(87vette81big) CS-144 alternator.

FP05_FanAlternatorUnderSeatWiring02_5067.jpg

Below is the Flex A Lite fan controller I'm using.

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessories/ ... ensor.html
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-31163/overview/

FP05_FlexALiteFanController_31163.jpg

Battery Terminals:
Positive Post - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... word=tz620
Negative Post - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... word=tz625

 
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great pictures and post info
everything looks like its coming along nicely!
when do you think your going to be able to fill the fluids (coolant,oil,trans fluid, brake fluid etc.) and start and drive the car?
 
Well, from what it looks like, when I ride up there(not) on my new toy with your shroud. We should just bolt it up and fire up your T bucket.
 

This confirms that I needed to use dual V-Belts for the new alternator.
I have two Gates 7420 belts, they are 1/2 inch wide.

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Selecting-an-Alternator

Belt Load Limitations

Drive belt width is a critical factor in selecting a replacement alternator.
Commonly-installed vee-belts and multi-groove serpentine belts have specific
limits regarding the amperage and horsepower loads they can support.

As a rule of thumb, 12-volt alternators use one horsepower for every 25 amps
of output, or to put it another way, their ratio of output to horsepower load is
25:1. So, when selecting a new alternator, you need to size it for the limits of
the capacity of its drive belt. Otherwise, your system will be plagued by
premature belt wear, belt slippage and potential damage to your alternator
and engine. See the following chart, and note that dual vee-belts and serpentine
belts can support much larger loads.

Belt_HP_Ratings.JPG

 
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The chart is nice Rick but does not factor in belt speed limit in feet per second.
For your applications and useage OK.
Cruising and moderate spirited driving

For 7-8K RPM Sustained must use a 5 inch diameter pulley. My experience .
Violent acceleration another factor.
4k to 8k Rpms in 1 second.
Power I am used to.
 

It's a good starting place and could be considered a minimum. Hard to calculate
what the acceleration effect would be.

 

My Odyssey PC680 battery came in, cost was about $110 from Amazon. It's just
hard to believe this battery can start a V8 engine, but several guys are using it,
so it should work just fine.

This type of battery has several advantages,
DESIGN LIFE 8-12 years (Float) @ 25˚ C (77˚ F)
SERVICE LIFE 3 to 10 years
ELECTROLYTE Drycell (“starved electrolyte”) no external leakage or corrosion
STORAGE LIFE 2 years before needing charge @ 25˚C (77˚F)
SHIPPING Air transportable; US Department of Transportation classified non-spillable (less expensive) Ground transport
END OF LIFE Battery slowly loses power at end of life; no catastrophic failure

FP06_OdysseyComparison01_5078.jpg
FP06_OdysseyComparison02_5079.jpg
FP06_OdysseyInCar_5080.jpg
FP06_OdysseySpecs01.jpg
FP06_OdysseySpecs02.jpg

http://www.odysseybattery.com/literature.html

 
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87vette81big said:
The chart is nice Rick but does not factor in belt speed limit in feet per second.
For your applications and useage OK.
Cruising and moderate spirited driving

For 7-8K RPM Sustained must use a 5 inch diameter pulley. My experience .
Violent acceleration another factor.
4k to 8k Rpms in 1 second.
Power I am used to.
Click to expand...

I'm running a 1/2-inch on a niiiiice 200 amp alt. I NEVER had any problems except violent acceleration. Or actually violent rev spikes - that will throw the belt.
 
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