Electrical Wiring for a TBucket


What do you think, do I have enough grounding. Maybe another wire from the engine block to the transmission?

The ground wire from the battery to the chassis will be 1/0. Any suggestions?


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FP07_GroundWirePassangerSide01_5085.jpg
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HappyVette said:
and yes it's starting to look like it might even get driven eventually???
Click to expand...
I'm pretty damn sure you already know that, Smart Asses Are A Dime Dozen"
:cool: :p


I love it when you give me a hard time! Cause there is no doubt with my computer and graphic skills you will loose this bout!!!!!! :mrgreen:
 
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HappyVette, :lol: :lol: :lol: , tell that one to Grumpy's wife!!!!
Better a smartass than a dumbass, we have plenty of those at work!
'
 
I would put the ground for distributor and elec choke at the read of the head(where you have the head to starter wire). and no ground from intake to head.
Well, do you really need all these grounds anyway?
 

Moving the distributor and choke ground wires is a good idea, that will
clean it up a little! I ran those wire several months ago and didn't even
think about it when I started adding the 8 AWG grounding wires.

As far too many ground wires ..... it seems I've read not to depend on
threads to provide a good ground. They have antiseez on those for the
manifold and everywhere else is a gasket. You could be right Mathieu,
but I can't go wrong having too many grounds.
 
busterrm said:
HappyVette, :lol: :lol: :lol: , tell that one to Grumpy's wife!!!! '
Click to expand...

I would Bob, but I don't want her to hurt herself, when she falls down LAUGHING !!! :D

 
grumpyvette said:
I think youll be ok once you connect the battery ground to the cars frame, and yes it's starting to look like it might even get driven eventually???
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I think its gonna be driven soon, I want to be his first passenger, unless his wife has dibs on that!
 
Indycars said:

Moving the distributor and choke ground wires is a good idea, that will
clean it up a little! I ran those wire several months ago and didn't even
think about it when I started adding the 8 AWG grounding wires.

As far too many ground wires ..... it seems I've read not to depend on
threads to provide a good ground. They have antiseez on those for the
manifold and everywhere else is a gasket. You could be right Mathieu,
but I can't go wrong having too many grounds.
Click to expand...
The head have a "head to block" ground.. the dowels pins ;/
The starter and engine block has good contact and probably no antiseize anyway.(i never heard of a starter to block grounding problem?
The intake.. only electrical thing that ground off of it is the choke and distributor wich your going to move to the heads anyway... dont need a 8 awg for just that.
and the starter to frame.. you have engine to battery(and battery is ground to frame).. your just wasting your money and time man. probably creating ground loop with soo many grounds. or magnetic fields(if you ever worked with vacuum tube electronic.. you know what i mean).
Overkill is good, but not this time i think so.

http://www.epanorama.net/documents/grou ... asics.html

gndloop.gif

system-power-no-ground-loops.gif

system-power-the-ground-loop.gif
 
mathd said:
The head have a "head to block" ground.. the dowels pins ;/
The starter and engine block has good contact and probably no antiseize anyway.(i never heard of a starter to block grounding problem?

I'm not sure you can count on the dowel pins to be a good connection. My block is painted where the starter mates with the block, so only the threads are making contact thru some oil I put on the threads.

The intake.. only electrical thing that ground off of it is the choke and distributor wich your going to move to the heads anyway... dont need a 8 awg for just that.

and the starter to frame.. you have engine to battery(and battery is ground to frame).. your just wasting your money and time man.

Engine to battery .... not sure what cable you are referring to here ???

probably creating ground loop with soo many grounds. or magnetic fields(if you ever worked with vacuum tube electronic.. you know what i mean).
Overkill is good, but not this time i think so.

I read the article you posted the link for. I can see there being a problem when you have something other than DC current, where its going to induce a voltage in another wire by a magnetic field.
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Good discussion Mathieu!

For example this guy wrote two books on automotive wiring and sell grounding kits that have 8 ground wires.

Kit includes
Battery Negative (-) to Body
Frame to Core Support
Rear End Housing to Frame
Bell Housing to Firewall
Cylinder Head to Cylinder Head
Cylinder Head to Frame
Top Post Battery Adapter
Grade 5 Hardware
Full Color Step-By-Step Instructions

Groundkit_med.jpg
 
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I kinda agree with you Rick, there is never enough grounds, with all the quality paint work you did grounding may be a issue.
 
Well, i dont care, i was just saying i think its overkill.
with that many bolt on the head, and with the torque they have, i dont think there will be a electrical contact problem ever there.

With the block painted where the starter mate. if you didnt buy the cable yet, i would said to try it before adding a ground there. I guess it can't hurt to have a extra ground there anyway.

Engine to battery..
Don't you have a big negative wire from the battery post to the engine block?, every car i have seen have one.

Dont get fooled by DC current only(i did not read this link fully but).
Just look at our car with the lm-2, the unit power on dc, it work on dc, computer USB also DC the sensors connected to it are all DC.. yet we got ground loop problem and can't keep it connected to the pc once the car is running+some singal AC noise to the sensor...
While all your car's equipment work on DC, i see what your thinking.. but dont forget they may induce some AC like the electrical FANS or the alternator/ignition...
Electrical can be tricky, and usually car's electonic is far from perfect.

bob, from the picture i think he is grinding some paint at the frame's ground point for better contact.
 
mathd said:
Well, i dont care, i was just saying i think its overkill.
I hope there is no hard feelings here! One thing we all like about cars, is doing it our way after listening to everyone's input.

with that many bolt on the head, and with the torque they have, i dont think there will be a electrical contact problem ever there.

With the block painted where the starter mate. if you didnt buy the cable yet, i would said to try it before adding a ground there. I guess it can't hurt to have a extra ground there.

Engine to battery..
Don't you have a big negative wire from the battery post to the engine block?, every car i have seen have one.
Since the battery is under the seat, the negative cable has always gone straight to the frame. The 1/0 cable I'm making for this now, is 13 inches long. That makes me think ..... I should have the same size 1/0 cable from the starter to the frame. The Powermaster starter can pull over 400 amp initially.


Dont get fooled by DC current only. While all your car's equipment work on DC, i see what your thinking.. but dont forget they may induce some AC like the electrical FANS or the alternator itself. That remind me of CB Radio high pitch squeal.
Click to expand...
 
I just edited some of my post
Oh, yeah battery under the seat.. and your running the ground to the frame.. things make a little more sense to me now.
Am not used to this kind of setup :oops:

edit:
yes make sure your wire from engine to frame is up to the task ;).
 
But i don't know man, i know each one do it there own way, but i have more electrical ability that you do and i got a feeling something is wrong(or that it could be better with this nice hardware you have, am not trying to tell you exactly what to do).. I did not really spent time thinking about your electrical wiring but i got a feeling something is not right and this feeling will not let me :)
 

I had to completely pull the wiring harness out of the car that I made to connect
the fan, fan temp sender and CS144 alternator. The very fragile 24 gauge wire
from the sender broke in the middle where I had soldered a 16 gauge wire to the
smaller 24 gauge sender wire. Not surprising, I've had problems all along trying
to crimp or solder such a small wire. I don't have a wire stripper or wire crimper
for that small a wire. It's NOT hard to pull apart or break such a wire. Now it
seems that the wire is broke at the sender, so I may be replacing the sender.

FP08_TempSendorWireSize_5121.jpg
FP08_Harness01_5118.jpg


I got the idea from a Painless wiring harness instruction to use a small battery charger
for testing. So I used a 12 volt, 1 amp wall wort to power the system. Hard to burn up
any components or wiring with power supply SO Small.

FP08_ElectricalTesting01_5113.jpg

 
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Are You Familiar with WESTERN UNION WIRE SPLICES Rick ?
Its how I join 2 separate wires together.
It makes for a super strong mechanical joint connection & ultra low resistance .
It dates back to the late 1800's Telegraph line days when the Lineman would join 2 copper telegraph lines together in the field.
Its a bit of an art to make correct. Practice makes perfect.
I learned it back in Freshman year in high school 1983. Been doing it ever since. Looks super clean when silver soldered & heat shrinked.
I don't like crimp spliced much myself.
You take each wire & strip back 1 to 1-1/2 inches of insulation.
Small wires I Skim insulation off with a sharp pocket knife like shaving wood.
Take each wire & form a 90 degree bend about 1/3rd to 1/2way up.
Place the Two 90 degree wire bends against each other inline.
Then twist both exposed wire ends in opposite directions with your Thumbs & index/ fore fingers.
stop twisting when you run out of wire. Solder the joint. Heat shrink. Your Done.
It works with even heavy gauge copper wire of 8- gauge but you use a pair of Lineman pliers to twist tight in Unison.
Be sure to install the heat shrink tubing of your choice on one end of the the wire 1st.
Lineman connections work great on wires of dissimilar diameters too.

Just use the Chinese wrap to protect the wires. Don't heat shrink the entire length. Likely strained wires in the middle when it cooled off. Caused the break.

BR
 
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