first hotrod build


rods that use bolts with nuts like pictured below will be weakened if excessively clearance ground
rod-grinding.jpe

stroker profile rods offer more clearance to cam lobes, and yes the stroker clearanced profile rods are available in both (h) and (I ) beam designs
scatrdx.jpg


hvsiclear1a.jpg

I can,t remember, building an engine for anyone using stock or refurbished stock 3/8" rod bolt, connecting rods, or any using 3/8" rod bolts or stock connecting rods in the last 20 years or so on any SBC or BBC,engines simply because the cost vs strength makes that not a good idea as far as durability is concerned.
that, I've built but from what I remember they only provide minimally better clearances, and I've used mostly SCAT 7/16" ARP rod bolt rods on both BBC and SBC builds

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/rods/

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/product-search/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...troker-tips-by-len-emanuelson.1249/#post-3752


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-build-info.18/#post-16221
 
Last edited:
Stop right there. The rods WILL contact the cam lobes (even in a stock SBC) unless the timing set is installed and properly indexed.
This was a surprise to me also when I was working on my 334.
Check again with the timing set set dot-to-dot with the chain installed.
I will bet almost anything that you have plenty of clearance.
 
Ok will check dot to dot, for some reason I thought that I read the cam gear goes 180 to the crank gear. On other checks I got the dial indicator to check piston to deck clearance, they are consistent, 1,3,5,7 .021 2,4,6,8 .016 really annoyed with this block. on top of the line bore being off the old timing chain was really loose and I don't remember that much slack when I removed it from the old engine. Although not ideal, will the line bore being off cause that much difference, and does anyone have cam to crank bore distance.
 
 
Last edited:
Grumpy, does a Pete Jackson style of gear drive care if the block has been align bored, or not?
 
I don,t know if the clearance issues , you'll see using a jackson gear drive,too time the cam, will be a problem or a non-issue
I,ve used one on several of my engine's for several decades, and I've used them on blocks that have been line honed,
but the issue here is that blocks and clearances differ, and theres no way to be certain until,
you actually assemble the jackson gear drive on that particular block your using and check, clearances.
 
measured the crank to cam and it shows .0045 under stock 4.521 specs. with my inexperience I could be off a half thousandth but I am shure I am close. with these numbers would you recommend a stock timing set or 5 thou over. what is better on line bored sized timing sets, chain or gear correction, from what I have read both are available.
 
with old timing set in dot to dot I have .046 rod to lobe clearance. really hesitant to jump in and start grinding on rods but threads say .060 is what I need. should I take another .014 off?
 
hotrod coupe said:
with old timing set in dot to dot I have .046 rod to lobe clearance. really hesitant to jump in and start grinding on rods but threads say .060 is what I need. should I take another .014 off?
Click to expand...

Is that with the camshaft you are going to run?
A small base circle camshaft will give you more clearance and this is just the situation they are intended for.

Post a picture of your rods, please.
 
decided to quit being scared to do something and clearanced rods 1.2,5,6. took very little to get .062. this using old timing set and cam, when new timing set comes in December I will install the new cam and timing set and recheck clearances before buttoning up the lower end.
 
yeah, even if you make minor mistakes you'll learn a great deal in the process
the fact is that most of us learn by making a few mistakes,
and if your not making mistakes occasionally its a good indication,
your not trying many new things!
I've had several people over the years ask me how I can just start on an engine rebuild if I've never yet worked on that particular engine?
EXAMPLE,
back in the early 1970s.....I was asked,

" how can you build a caddy 500,engine,
if youve only built SBC,BBC and MOPAR hemi,
and wedge engines before?"
Click to expand...

well obviously you need to do some research, but a great many factors in most engine builds will be rather similar,
and if you have a wide selection of quality precision measuring tools,
and your smart enough to stop and research any questions,
before blindly assuming anything you,ll rarely run into major problems.

obviously having an experienced mentor,
and reference material like related shop manuals and now the internet, helps
If your in doubt....stop, and do some research,
its usually far cheaper and will waste less time,
in the long run than making mistakes and having to correct them.
 
Last edited:
hotrod coupe said:
decided to quit being scared to do something and clearanced rods 1.2,5,6. took very little to get .062. this using old timing set and cam, when new timing set comes in December I will install the new cam and timing set and recheck clearances before buttoning up the lower end.
Click to expand...
Good for you. (There is no thumbs up smile.)
 
For what ever reason I have .005 difference between left and right deck clearance. I know that the proper action would be to tear down my engine again and have a shop mill the deck to the same height as the other, but I would rather not do that with this block. Cometic mls head gaskets (4.125 .030) 9.87 cr and (4.165 .025) 9.86 cr giving a .046 quench for each side. Is this a sound bandaid approach to this problem or not.
 
yes that different gasket thickness to get the correct matched quench, will work reasonable well,
obviously not the ideal way to do this but it should work,just fine in that application/
(be sure to check the valve train clearances and geometry issues)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top