Let's start over

DorianL said:
Here are my time slips:
http://1on1-motorsports.de/slip/?car=m23

(Elevation: 1200 feet.)

Let me know if you cannot read it.
Perfectly clear to me!

I missed last year's race, so I pretty much did not want to miss this year's as well. It was important for me to drive to Germany and get down the track a couple of times if not push it hard. That is why I braved the rush hour traffic on a hot day and drove 150 miles to Germany. This was the last race of the season.
Sounds like you need a success after all your troubles, if only just getting there that would count as one.

Turns out, I could not resist, I pushed it hard down the track, but only twice.

The Tangerine Tornado did well. My best run, 12.325s @ 111mph, matched my best run from two years ago. It did this, without the benefit of a dyno (re)tune that I had back then.
That's got to be motivational for you.

Furthermore, I dropped my compression to 8.2, dialed back all-in advance to 34 degrees down from 36, water/meth not operational, shifting at 5200 rpm, and the carb was not returned... the only difference was, my 325/50R15 drag radials that seem to have improved my 60-foot times from 2.2s to 1.98s.

I was told that I was leaving a cloud of black smoke down the track so, quite rich!

Right now I am glad that I have a new engine and stout trans and I can quietly work on the details.
Good to hear things went mostly your way, always good to get back on the track!

Next year, I expect to break into the 11s.
Should be very doable.

In the meantime I will prep the rearend and get myself one of those infinitely adjustable jet plates for the carb.
Have you decided what changes you are going to make to the rear ???

I did suffer three failures: one exhaust gasket ;) , my ignition key won't come out of the cylinder :?: and an electric fan failure 3 miles from home... I still have to check what the latter is from.
The fan failure only 3 miles from home proves your luck is turning around.
Click to expand...
 
first WELL DONE DORIANL!
I know only too well, how working against a deadline and not on a huge budget makes things far more difficult, and not having several close local gear heads to pitch in, to help, is also a huge disadvantage!
if your pumping black smoke out the exhaust, and have yet time to even tune the carb or set the correct ignition advance curve, and your shifting that low in the rpm range, and your still running 2 second 60 ft times you've obviously still got significantly more potential in the cars combo.
now I'd fix the carb tune, ignition curve and fuel/air ratio issues first as they could potentially lead to engine durability problems if left uncorrected but getting into the mid to high 11 second range should just take some combo tweaking
 
Nice, thats awesome.
Do you run any kind of boost retard?
You say you have the full advance in at 34 deg, thats 34 full degree with boost and no boost retard unit?(thats with pump gas, 91 octane?)
Or do you run 34° with something like -2° per pound of boost?
Sorry for asking lots of questions but since we run both a 383 with some amount of boost, i want to compage a little the engine settings :).
I run 32 deg right now with boost and no boost retard unit.
 
Oh, and the supercharger belt was slipping... ;) I was proably only getting about 6 of the 10 PSI.

I will get this machine some dyno time soon - I have a dual wide band O2 sensor. In a few months I'll take it over. Last time it had a little short of 400 RWHP.

If I recall correctly, I am not running any boost retard. With the water/meth at the dyno, it did not need it.

The reason I did not mess with the ignition is because the 6AL2 requires a laptop. I have a very old laptop and... well... it is tough to get it to work. ;)

As for the carb, I'd be more comfortable with one of those adjust-a-jet plates. The jets on the carb right now were larger than what was available in the kit... so I had to drill the jets out and carefully measure with a micrometer. In other words, the remaining jets that I had were likely too small and I was not going to risk leaning out.

The plan now is to replace the supercharger belt that is worn. Get that adjust-a-jet plate. Possibly get the handheld tuning device for the 6AL2 in lieu of a laptop, replace the ignition wires + cap and rotor. Will also raise the rev limit... any suggestions to what RPM? Then DYNO!

But first things first: shut the #@$%#%@ exhaust up then get a 15/16 master cylinder + check out juice to fan.

EDIT: and I only use Euro 98 which I think is equivalent to 91

EDIT: Also on the fence for the rear end. Considering a Ford 9-inch but also considering hardening my 8.5 10-bolt.
 
Ahh, thanks for the info.
I used to run 5,5-6psi on 91 octane(thats the highest we can have at the pump) and 32°C timing without any boost retard/boost cooler.
I think the Euro98 is a 98 octane fuel.
Now for some reason my boost only go up to 3,5-4 psi(with a 2.11 ratio) this happened after i set the total timing from 26° to 32., i guess its the old belt slipping since the teflon strip are in great shape.

In your previous setup with the baby blower, what kind of pulley ratio did you use and what kind of boost level you did average with the pulley ratio?.


I also read on the adjust-a-jet stuff, and they say since its aluminium, its porous and the metal expand more with heat(or less, sorry about that) then the carb body. In short they say its a leaking device. I made my choiche on the holley QuickChange Jet pn: HLY-34-24. That and the LM-2.
 
On my baby blower, i was running the largest driver with smallest driven. Not sure what the ratio was, but it really did not increase the boost. In fact the 5.5 psi I saw were deceiving. As pressure was simply building up in the ultra low profile manifold. The cylinders weren't actually seeing the flow at boost. I think I had the distibutor locked at 32.

As for fuel, I think there is a difference between RON and MON. Euro octane is rated differently. Higher number for an equivalent octane.

You hit the limits of a baby blower pretty quick. It's a great power adder but run out of steam at the top end.

EDIT: no retard at boost
 
with your current greatly improved intake manifold design, better flowing heads and much improved supercharger you should get far more effective boost, reaching the cylinders
 
Did you guys catch the above videos on my oil pressure hot idle and cruise?
 
Just in case I did not post yet... but depending on the heat of the oil at it hottest,

I'll get 25 PSI at Idle
At cruise 1600 RPM, I'll typically get a little over 40 PSI
At 2500 RPM I'll get about 50 PSI.
I have seen 60 PSI as I get on the gas, but I tend to be eyes on the road. ;)

I think we can say that the oil pressure issue has been solved.

And no steam out of the tail pipes. But it is clearly RICH! (new plugs on the way)
 
Im glad to see everything's working correctly , its amazing how well things work once the bugs get worked out! I bet you've had fun surprising a few of the locals while showing them your tail light receding into the horizon
whats your current plans?
any changes?
 
I am certainly impressed by the oil pressure and most of all pleased to know that my little V8 is freshly rebuilt and looking to many happy miles of motoring. It is really cool to see that needle so high on the gauge.

As for the upcoming plans... there are a few ancillaries I need to hook up: idiot lights, trans pressure and temp gauges, etc.

The powersteering pulley ate the supercharger belt, so all that needs to be replaced...

But what I am really after now is a perfect tune. Nice - Clean - Crisp - Perfect tune. I wrote it down somewhere... but I think my jets are 80/100. Strangely, before the rebuild that was rich but not excessively... now it is really fat and you can feel it is sluggish. One thing is for sure, it should be... 100 on the secondaries should be way fat.

Anyway - I'll be putting my dual O2 wide band and eventually taking this to a dyno. Also read up a lot more on my water/meth injection and am much more clear on how to tune for it.

The only thing different now is I will have a full twelve rib pulley that should not slip ;) and a smaller driven pulley. According to New Era Racecraft, this pulley should give me about 11-12 PSI and stay within the realm of safe. No popping head gaskets, no over burdening the block... just god help us if I ever manage to get this thing to hook.

Essentially I will tune it SOP within the next few weeks and then take it to a dyno hopefully by the end of the year. I have no CLUE where a perfect tune will lead in terms of HP and TQ.

BTW - what jets I should start at for tuning? 80/85? I think base tume on this 850 CFM doule pumper was 80/80 or 78/80
 
Id be rather cautious , and ONLY drop the jet sizes about 3-4 sizes at a time. IE if your running 90/100 Id drop it in stages to 82-84 /-92-94 and see what the plugs looked like, once you get semi close Id move a single jet size up/down at a time, running rich in a supercharged engine reduces oil film supporting the rings and slowly wears rings running lean tends to destroy pistons and rings rather quickly with detonation becoming an ever present potential issue, obviously having the air/fuel ratio gauge helps a great deal, Id bet that something similar to all 84-or 86 jets should work


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DorianL said:
Just in case I did not post yet... but depending on the heat of the oil at it hottest,

I'll get 25 PSI at Idle
At cruise 1600 RPM, I'll typically get a little over 40 PSI
At 2500 RPM I'll get about 50 PSI.
I have seen 60 PSI as I get on the gas, but I tend to be eyes on the road. ;)

I think we can say that the oil pressure issue has been solved.

And no steam out of the tail pipes. But it is clearly RICH! (new plugs on the way)
Click to expand...
Sorry Dorian, I thought they were just pictures and I didn't know what the red gauge was. I didn't notice that they were videos until you said something.

It must feel really nice to see the oil pressure where you want it, especially after the struggles you've had. Job well done!
 
Yea - unitl I get all the parts, plugs, jets, pulley, belt, etc. I see no point in tuning now. Besides, this weekend I am out on a Boy Scout camp on Saturday and a golf game on Sunday... Days being as short as they are I might only get the O2 sensors in there by the weekend after... with luck all my parts will be there. Curious to see what the O2 will read.
 
Yellow paint pays off - oil level was dropping for a reason I could not locate... back of block: oil pressure line fitting at back of block.
 
DorianL said:
Yellow paint pays off - oil level was dropping for a reason I could not locate... back of block: oil pressure line fitting at back of block.
Click to expand...
Was it the fitting or the line where it goes into the fitting ?
 
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