My Chevelle build and spot to Rant

87vette81big said:
This an area where You Create John.
Every car plumbing needs tends to be unique.
Back in the day I was paid good $$$$ to plumb 5.0 Race cars for fuel system requiements to support 1400 Hp with my bud Ed in Joliet.
Often worked out to $500 each cash pay.
2 nights of work.

Earls AN Fittings my Favorite.
Stainless Earls Fuel line hose.
The Goal to reach is use just 1 or 2 or No 90 degree or 180 degree fittings.
Straight unobstructed Fuel shot to the EFI or carburator.
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Kept fittings minimal but did use bulk heads only 90s used on top of cell plans are set in head just gotta get hose mounting hardware or make my own.
 
One piece of advice John is to also plumb in a permanent Fuel pressure guage within view from the drivers seat at all times.
On my 1970 TA its mounted on the leading edge of the hood drivers side near the fender upper lip.
An Autometer liquid filled all mechanical guage mounted in a Chrome Cup.
2-5/8" guage face size. # 4 AN Stainless braided line running to the Fuel pressure regualtor monted near the Carburator.
Big Blocks like Pontiac 455 have a Verocious appetite for Gasoline WOT Pulling hard in 3rd & 4th gear.
Any fuel system issues show up instant on the FP Guage in front of you.
When right the FP DROP SHOULD NEVER BE MORE THAN 1/2 PSI WOT IN HIGH GEAR AT 100-160 MPH.
 
On my 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix the Autometer FP Guage is mounted inside he cockput right next to the Autometer oil pressure guage.
 
Will do in near future Brian there is a gauge going on the regulator but was thinking one in the cockpit or in cowl when the metal comes off and the glass ir carbin goes on
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Will do in near future Brian there is a gauge going on the regulator but was thinking one in the cockpit or in cowl when the metal comes off and the glass ir carbin goes on
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Those tiny Fuel pressure guages that mount on the Fuel pressure regulator or Fuel Rails- Fuel Log line are not safe.
I had one that vibrated apart on my TA a long ime ago back around 1996.
Always ran a Super Hot Race Cam in it. 4-speed muncie and any stall I want is a left clutch foot away.
You have a Hot Isky Hydro in the Chevelle.
Vibrations will cause the crappy FP guage to rupture also.
 
No hydraulic hot isky solid but that's not helping any either will see how finances fair this pay day see about getting that taken care of not a fan of fire
 
Well back at it again guys what a crazy spring IMG_01741.jpgIMG_01851.jpg finished this up last week but back to workingon the chevelle during lunch and breaks at work. In fact got my reverse lights wired this morning to the quick silver shifter. I started wiring the neutral safety switch today also. I got some stage 8 header bolts and was install half of them while the boy napped Saturday. I plan on getting there collector bolts and nuts also be done with playing games with that instead of working on what I need to get done. I have a stereo system in the trunk that will need to be pulled out soon think the woofer is going to go on craigs list and the 6x9s wired up properly. I need to ded if the sub amp was class d or bass only. If it's not I will use it on 6x9s if not sell it for more go fast parts.
 
Nice paint job.
Am still a beginner with airbrush, what your using for airbrushing? i have an iwata hp-cs and createx wicked paint.. i hate the white and yellow from the createx wicked line.(going to try the detail white next time)
I need to find a fridge compressor.. to make a silent airbrushing compressor and some more paint then start practicing again. Over 1 years without laying paint. suck :(

Flame is hard to make... i see the yellow turned a bit green over the black area or its the camera.
 
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mathd said:
Nice paint.
Am still a beginner with airbrush, what your using for airbrushing? i have an iwata hp-cs and createx wicked paint.. i hate the white and yellow from the createx wicked line.(going to try the detail white next time i heard good thing about it)
I need to find a fridge compressor.. to make a silent airbrushing compressor and start practicing again. Over 1 years without laying paint. suck :(

Flame is hard to make... i see the yellow turned a bit green over the black area or its the camera.
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It did get a green tint wicked detail was the paint used. The iwata is a good AB I have three eclipses the hp-bcs right now I hsve 20 different airbrushs. The wicked detail is better but if I was you I would go with Etac learn that system if you are gonna use a waterbase system. I like uros so much better but had the little man so no more uros.
 
Also forgot to mention if you wanna get serious with the AB go join airbrushforum.org
Indycars said:
Wow John, that's a great paint job, is that what my book is going to look like???
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I wish lol I haven't had much time to read it but did skim through it where is heading next Philly you I need to get it sent out I was looking st in on my desk and became over welmed with guilt I still have it.
 
was just contemplating something I was about to wire my neutral safety switch up but stopped as I want to put in a bypass switch so I can start my car in drive or OD if on the highway and it stalls. The reverse pattern on the manual valve body would make it so you would have to shift past 1st gear to reach neutral. Am I over thinking this or would a bypass be a good thought.
 
Bad news got bit in the ass again by the shop my dad originally had put the engine in and every time it has been expensive. The electric fan wiring melted the fuse for some reason and it over heated. No biggie saw it happening pulled over hard wired the fan and let her cool down. So I thought no big deal except the fact I either blew a head gasket or lost over a gallon of antifreeze. Which led to the temp sensor giving me a false reading by not being in coolant and heat seizing the block cleating god awful knocking. So I took my 010 block I had sitting around and dropped it off to the machine shop for magnifluxing and cleaning there is no one local to sonic the block but is a 71 virgin bore I believe it might even be the factory block for the chevelle 3970010 K03 22 CGC block with 010 under the timing cover. I don't have the $$$ for a SHP but will splay this block. All said and done looking @ $780 in machine work and I am not sure yet on the rotating assembly. I am really thinking forged 383 here anyone here use ohio crank or has personal experience with them. I have been doing looking around and feel forged h beams and a pro max forged crank with forged probe pistons.

My questions

Ohio crank heard good and bad but same as I do for scat, eagle and most others yes or no and why?

Which splayed kit to use there are a few different options?

Reuse the Cam and lifters if in good condition on breakdown?

Switch from 1.5 to 1.6 ratio on the rocker arms?

What is Max static Compression on 91 octane pump gas?

Who am I sending these wonderful books to please PM me?
 
Well the machine shop called says all is well and have $145.50 +8% for the man bill waiting fir me with my block they checked the cylinders and suggested me to bore it. I will ask how they feel about the deck on it but time to pick it up and start taking off all the sharp corners and prepping the caps for oil flow and the valley also. Some other good tricks up my sleeve time to start on a power trip. hehehe
 
[B][SIZE=4][URL='http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?members/strictly-attitude.26060/']Strictly Attitude[/URL] said:
[/SIZE][/B]
New
Bad news got bit in the ass again by the shop my dad originally had put the engine in and every time it has been expensive. The electric fan wiring melted the fuse for some reason and it over heated. No biggie saw it happening pulled over hard wired the fan and let her cool down. So I thought no big deal except the fact I either blew a head gasket or lost over a gallon of antifreeze. Which led to the temp sensor giving me a false reading by not being in coolant and heat seizing the block cleating god awful knocking. So I took my 010 block I had sitting around and dropped it off to the machine shop for magnifluxing and cleaning there is no one local to sonic the block but is a 71 virgin bore I believe it might even be the factory block for the chevelle 3970010 K03 22 CGC block with 010 under the timing cover. I don't have the $$$ for a SHP but will splay this block. All said and done looking @ $780 in machine work and I am not sure yet on the rotating assembly. I am really thinking forged 383 here anyone here
"]
My questions

Ohio crank heard good and bad but same as I do for scat, eagle and most others yes or no and why?
IVE FOUND THE SCAT FORGED KITS ARE A GREAT VALUE

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/#post-239

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/#post-1827



Which splayed kit to use there are a few different options?
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/splayed-main-caps.1014/#post-3831
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-11200/?rtype=10
mil-11200_w.jpg



Reuse the Cam and lifters if in good condition on breakdown?
YES IF IT CHECKS OUT AFTER CAREFUL INSPECTION

Switch from 1.5 to 1.6 ratio on the rocker arms?
THAT WOULD DEPEND ON THE CAM USED< HEAD FLOW REQUIRED

What is Max static Compression on 91 octane pump gas?

ALUMINUM HEADS, AND THE CORRECT QUENCH, WILL ALLOW A BIT MORE COMPRESSION
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...mble-and-swirl-quench-squish.4081/#post-10861

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/iron-vs-aluminum-heads.389/#post-7266

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/dynamic-vs-static-compression.727/#post-12276

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-with-pump-gas-octane-levels.3443/#post-9118

Who am I sending these wonderful books to please PM me?
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87vette81big said:
The off idle transistion circuit is not real sophisticated in E carbs.
They did a much better job on the 1980's-1990's Carter AFB Race series carburators.
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A little more info on this please, Brian. I have some of those Carter AFBs. As well as the Edelbrocks.
 
87vette81big said:
I figured you had around 7-8 inches at idle John with the Isky Cam in there.
Install a 7 spring.
Test drive.
Write down the primary and secondary jets on a sheet of paper.
Jet sizing is for gross fuel tuning.
Metering rods changed for fine tuning AFR.
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How big is that ISKY cam you have in there?
 
ok know it's been a while and find myself right back here as I am getting ready to open up the Chevelle's heart and find out what happened and if any thing is salvageable. I am kind of hoping it mostly is so I can use funds towards other modifications. I have gone through allot of family stuff that has put this project on hold but ready to jump back in a good friend of mine is gonna give me a hand and lend me his garage to do the work in which will be nice. If the 355 bottom end is not salvageable I will be building a 383 NA with a scat 9000 crank, scat forged I beams and either forged or hyper pistons. I am trying to be realistic. I hope the cam and lifters are salvageable I have had the valve cover off and spun the engine over to see if the valve train moved properly it seems so. But nothing is certain till she comes apart. Lots of bags. If I can I will be finishing the efi this time. Hope every one has been well.
 
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