My Chevelle build and spot to Rant

Do a cranking compression test John.
Especially #5 & #7. Make sure its not mechanical.
Then look elsewhere if OK.
 
I didn't get to cranking test yet will though soon have to put the Schrader valve back in mine and fix where I cut it. or run over harbor freight and grab a new one or even a tool rental just to keep things cheap as can be right now. With all the rain I feel like I need to concentrate on building an Arc instead. LOL Any way just ran out quick in the rain pulled the 7 plug and sure enough here it is.

Only been ran in the drive way and down the road. Wet as can be soaked in fuel. Read the Edy manual and there was a nice little section bout big cams that don't have allot of vacuum.
"If the engine has a fairly radical camshaft it may require an excessive amount of throttle opening for idle and/or have low idle vacuum levels. Either condition can lead to poor levels of
adjustability and erratic idles.
• Another fix for the above condition is to run as much spark advance as possible at idle. If the distributor is fitted with a vacuum advance unit, connect it directly to manifold
vacuum. If you are not able to employ vacuum advance for some reason, then the mechanical curve should have a low limit, which will allow you to use plenty of initial spark advance.
• Measure the manifold vacuum at idle. If it is below 7" Hg, there is a good chance that the Metering Rods are in the up (rich) position. When combined with a high idle air rate this can
cause the Nozzles to discharge fuel at idle. Use a weaker Step-Up Spring (see section on Step-Up calibration) to keep the Rods down at idle. With some cams, a stiffer spring (pink or
silver) is necessary. Experimentation is the best way to determine which is best for your application."
Just looking around in my spare time trying to see what possible causes. I also took the volt meter and checked the plug wire just in case that was the culprit. If it was nicer out and not raining I would have pulled the cap and gave that a good inspection too.
Also took the idle mixture screws and retightened them and backed them out 2.5 turns on the carb. I really don't want to put 50 dollars into a carb when I am trying to convert to MPFI, I don't know, need to calm down and get the compression checked first like Brian said. All the other plugs looked normal when I pulled them and replaced with all new. Also need to get the new fuel pump installed but can't afford the fittings or fuel line right now. But for now will gather information study hard and gather facts need to get my vacuum gauge from my parents garage and start a notebook on the car especially while everything is fresh in the melon.
 

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Dang John ..... .are you screwing with us, you really spray painted that with black paint right ?????? :p :D

Well it takes three things for combustion, air/fuel, spark and compression. You definitely got the fuel covered, but it must be that you don't have spark or compression on that cylinder.

It would be hard to understand how a carburetor could do that to one cylinder, so yeah you need to do that compression test. Look at the distributor cap for that cylinder, etc etc.

 
I wish it was spray paint lol I am hoping it is not a broken ring or worst it held air enough to put the springs back in after cam break but the compression test will tell the story might be the cap we will see soon enough.
 

Don't mean to bring up something you already know, but just in case .....

If the number is much lower than the other cylinders, squirt a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder, if the number comes up, then it's the rings. If the number does not come up, then it's one of the valves.

 
Strictly Attitude said:
Glad you reminded me I had known about that trick but you freshened it in my mind. Thanks :D
Click to expand...
Do the Compression test John As soon as you can. Check all 8 cylinders. Rain sucks i know. Just try and do it.

Need to rule out mechanical issue or not.
hope its not a broken top piston ring or piston land.
 
I will Brian don't worry just actually got a minute while the wife was out the boy but not enough time to get into anything. Soon enough I also hope I will not paying out for a new piston. I know I'm due for a new and improved bottom end and fresh block but hoping for later than sooner. Like you said the test will tell and keep me from chasing my tail around in circles.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
I will Brian don't worry just actually got a minute while the wife was out the boy but not enough time to get into anything. Soon enough I also hope I will not paying out for a new piston. I know I'm due for a new and improved bottom end and fresh block but hoping for later than sooner. Like you said the test will tell and keep me from chasing my tail around in circles.
Click to expand...
You can buy a single piston.
Keith Black Silvolite & rings.

Have Olds Engines to dig up and move next year.
1965 Olds 425 A.
Have everything to build it.
Be a nice Torque monster.
ISKY CAM bought & here.
 
$43.99 speed pro forged would put back whats in there. But if it's mechanical I might just pull the block. I really don't want to open that can of worms cause I don't want to open it up with out putting it back together the way I want it to be. Just a little OCD problem I have. I know myself I would want to replace everything but would only replace the bad piston due to $$ constraints.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
$43.99 speed pro forged would put back whats in there. But if it's mechanical I might just pull the block. I really don't want to open that can of worms cause I don't want to open it up with out putting it back together the way I want it to be. Just a little OCD problem I have. I know myself I would want to replace everything but would only replace the bad piston due to $$ constraints.
Click to expand...
All Car guys have OCD ISSUES JOHN.
LOOK ON GRUMPYS HERE.
ITS EVERYONE .

Compression test.
Find out the Truth.

425 Olds is one of the best Olds V8 engines ever old timers have told me.
Why I picked it up.
Its a high nickle block also.
F1 or F2-F3 code.
Have to check again to verify.
 
found the plug fouling problem Brian could you or Grumpy do the honors Indy Phil please witness. I need a good smack in the back of the head. When changing wires don't switch the 5 and 7 on the distributor. Ooopsy well it runs like a raped ape still popping a little trying to work it out. Any ideas are welcome I think it might be a lean condition pop from the 600 still running on the stock fuel pump. Not sure will also check header bolts and torque the manifold down again. Will still get a compression check done hopefully this week.
 

Hey we all do some stupid things. I put my electric fuel pump in backwards and
couldn't figure out why I was getting any fuel at the carb. That was until I heard
all the gurgling in the tank from the air coming up ..... light bulb comes on!!!

 
Take #6 & #8 spark plugs and install them in #5&7 cylinders John.
Install #5&7 into #6&8.
Drive for 10minutes goosing gas gradual. To clean the fouled spark plugs.
Usually works.
Be around tonight.
Power washing 455#3 now.
Photograph & post tonight on my thread.
 
I had one new one laying around I put in that cylinder when I pulled the gas fouled one for photos. So I will clean this one off and throw it in the glove box to have as a back up. There is still a problem I think it's more in having the right ignition curve set up or the carburetor tuned properly. I do love the first to second burnouts not chirps lol
 
Ok here's what she is doing, Drove it to work this morning and ran pretty good and smooth when it was under load. But when not under load it pops through the exhaust. It also did this really bad when I brought it up 3000 rpm and the secondaries were not open yet. I don't have a header leak that I know of and it sounds more like a misfire. I have been chasing this popping for a long time. I had it gone once by disconnecting the vacuum advance I might try that again I wish the msd vacuum advance can was adjustable.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Ok here's what she is doing, Drove it to work this morning and ran pretty good and smooth when it was under load. But when not under load it pops through the exhaust. It also did this really bad when I brought it up 3000 rpm and the secondaries were not open yet. I don't have a header leak that I know of and it sounds more like a misfire. I have been chasing this popping for a long time. I had it gone once by disconnecting the vacuum advance I might try that again I wish the msd vacuum advance can was adjustable.
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Power valve is not working as it should John.
Or need a lower numerical setpoint power valve.

Leaving for work.
Talk later today.
 
The edelbrock does not have a power valve but step up piston and spring that control the metering rods I pulled them out during lunch break today. Cleaned them off real good dropped them in the ultrasonic and reinstalled them. I might need to get new springs due to needing a softer spring the spring kit is $8.25 but all the parts were carboned right up from carb back firing from the old flat cam. I reinstalled them at 2 o'clock break and fired it up to make sure it ran but the test drive home in 15 min will give me a verdict. I really should rebuild the carb and tune it for now but lack of funds till after Christmas and snow being right around the corner is stopping me.
 
litte better but not there I get paid tomorrow I will at least get a can of cleaner and clean the hell out of it. If it was you would you tune the the 750 or the 600. I am not saying I will get a calibration kit for the carb but if I do I will only do one of carbs which one would you do? Full rebuild and proper tuning. I feel I need this right before efi. Cause EFI is still allot of $$$ away.
 
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