Planning a new 383 build that is now going to be a 400
- Thread starter busterrm
- Start date
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
I guess you could call this my build sheet, and its a work in process;
Dart SHP block 4.125 bore
Scat forged crank 3.75 stroke
Scat forged H beam 5.7 rods
Probe 12.5 dish forged pistons
All bearings are coated Clevite
Cam bearings are Dart
Mellings 10 % oil pump
Compcams Magnum 280 roller
on billeted core 224 duration @ 050,
.525 lift 110 lsa 106 icl
ivc 66 retarded to 69 upon degreeing cam
ARP rocker studs and guide plates.
Compcams Ultra Pro Magnum Roller Rockers 7/16
1.6 ratio corrected cam lift to .563
RHS 200 cc pro action heads 64cc with
Compcams hardware including 987
dual springs 2.02/1.6 stainless valves
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake.
MSD small pro billeted distributor, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD Streetfire 6AL box, and Taylor 8.5mm wires.
Dart SHP block 4.125 bore
Scat forged crank 3.75 stroke
Scat forged H beam 5.7 rods
Probe 12.5 dish forged pistons
All bearings are coated Clevite
Cam bearings are Dart
Mellings 10 % oil pump
Compcams Magnum 280 roller
on billeted core 224 duration @ 050,
.525 lift 110 lsa 106 icl
ivc 66 retarded to 69 upon degreeing cam
ARP rocker studs and guide plates.
Compcams Ultra Pro Magnum Roller Rockers 7/16
1.6 ratio corrected cam lift to .563
RHS 200 cc pro action heads 64cc with
Compcams hardware including 987
dual springs 2.02/1.6 stainless valves
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake.
MSD small pro billeted distributor, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD Streetfire 6AL box, and Taylor 8.5mm wires.
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87vette81big
Guest
Your RHS 200 400 SBC is going to be a Super Torque engine too Bob.
With your Nova's 10-bolt 8-1/2" Rear, a 3.42 :1 Gearset would work very nice on the street for all around driving fun. 3.42 Gearset still available new from Richmond Gear.
For more 1/4 mile use & part time street driving a 3.73 would be a good choice.
A 3.64 Gearset would be more ideal but only made for the special design 1970-71 Buick GS Stage 1 musclecar 10-bolt rear.
And for the 1957-64 Pontiac- Olds 9.300 drop out 3rd member Hogs head Rear Diff.
3.64 Gearset I have new for my '57 Pontiac Rear. Going to be my Street Gear.
With your Nova's 10-bolt 8-1/2" Rear, a 3.42 :1 Gearset would work very nice on the street for all around driving fun. 3.42 Gearset still available new from Richmond Gear.
For more 1/4 mile use & part time street driving a 3.73 would be a good choice.
A 3.64 Gearset would be more ideal but only made for the special design 1970-71 Buick GS Stage 1 musclecar 10-bolt rear.
And for the 1957-64 Pontiac- Olds 9.300 drop out 3rd member Hogs head Rear Diff.
3.64 Gearset I have new for my '57 Pontiac Rear. Going to be my Street Gear.
when I first found this newer posted info, I had to start looking back into the thread to find more info on the build, and application.
, and your rather obviously building a nice high torque street engine, but reading this latest post ,I am a bit curious as to the car/truck your installing it in,its weight,exhaust system, the drive train gearing , converter stall speed or manual trans used,and why that particular cam was selected, as those factors would help clarify the engines design,parts selected, and intended power range matching the application. and help some one jumping into the thread recently get a better grasp on whats being built.
(yes I,m fairly sure you posted the info before,early in the thread, but without that info in this thread,posted along with the build component list, its rather confusing to someone just jumping into a new thread at this point in the build)
, and your rather obviously building a nice high torque street engine, but reading this latest post ,I am a bit curious as to the car/truck your installing it in,its weight,exhaust system, the drive train gearing , converter stall speed or manual trans used,and why that particular cam was selected, as those factors would help clarify the engines design,parts selected, and intended power range matching the application. and help some one jumping into the thread recently get a better grasp on whats being built.
(yes I,m fairly sure you posted the info before,early in the thread, but without that info in this thread,posted along with the build component list, its rather confusing to someone just jumping into a new thread at this point in the build)
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87vette81big
Guest
If you use an automatic overdrive trans Bob you can use a 4.10 gear on the street.
Like a 700R4.
Has to built up for intended purpose.
Stock you will shred it apart with 500-550ft/lbs torque.
Turbo 350 or Turbo 400 up to task with decent rebuild & nice shift kit.
Heavy Duty Fully Furnace brazed torque converter required.
Massive Engine flywheel torque will shred weaklings.
Like a 700R4.
Has to built up for intended purpose.
Stock you will shred it apart with 500-550ft/lbs torque.
Turbo 350 or Turbo 400 up to task with decent rebuild & nice shift kit.
Heavy Duty Fully Furnace brazed torque converter required.
Massive Engine flywheel torque will shred weaklings.
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
Well Grumpy, this started as a 383, then death of that block, then I got the shaft from Tommy and his Wife. So I had to re-establish my purpose. I was pointed towards AFR 195 street heads, but that was what I wanted but I couldn't afford them. The RHS were affordable and still suited my purpose. The car is a 76 Nova, built up TH350, The rear end, I keep getting mixed up, but its a 8.2 10 bolt, I put 8.5 in my original post about the nova in "Texas Hotrodder", also I just saw that I put Eddy Air Gap, but thats not right either, its a Wieand Air Strike. The two look so much alike! I got the bore and stroke wrong too!I had to have been thinking of the 357 in it previously.grumpyvette said:
Okay particulars on the car:
76 Nova
current is 350 - 60over( 375 ci with hard blocked up to freeze plugs)
Ohio cast steel crank 3.625 stroke its probably about 370 -375 fwhp
TH350 built with shift kit.
8.2 GM converted to positraction with Eaton unit, 3.73 gear
Stall is 2500 - 2700 cant remember exactly, I have moved since then and lost the sales receipt.
The car weighs about 3350 with me in it. Probably lighter when I take out back seat.
Eventally will have a set of Traction bars fashioned after Caltrac Traction bars. Fabricated by yours truly.
The truth of the matter is that this was started for Tommy's truck then he changed to his 63 Chevy II, then his wife was mad cause he was spending so much money. So guess who gets stiffed. So I took the block and the rotating assembly as payment for all my time spent on it.
So I had to make some changes to the build to put it in my Nova.
The Compcams Magnum Roller was what we already decided before the big break up, so when it got here I called Compcams to see if that cam could be done on a billeted core, so I paid more money and exchanged it for the new billeted cam. I ran through many cams Grumpy, and we decided on that one because of the low duration. Torque was what I had in mind when selecting that cam. I ran several different cams, looking at where the tq and hp curves were, that cam was right in the area where I wanted it to be, it runs out of juice at a lower rpm but I plan on setting the rev limiter to around 5800 in the 6AL box. But I think It may never see that rpm range. Oh yeah the exhaust is set of 1.75 mid length headers with 2.25 inch exhaust with mid length cherry bomb exit in front of rear tires, I haven't decided yet but I may go straight out the back. That I will decide
later.
thank YOU! :mrgreen:
for taking the time to post the additional info, I remember a good deal of what went on during the process, but I know from long experience most guys reading the thread won,t bother to look back thru or remember much, so keeping the builds purpose in mind is critical.
it allows anyone reading thru the thread to get a FAR BETTER grasp on what your building and WHY youve selected the parts you did, for the build.
Your experience concerning the unexpected expense levels incurred during a building an engine correctly is hardly rare, but it comes as a huge shock to most first time engine builders, and its why I regularly point many guys who ask me to build an engine for them to buy a crate engine.
Once I bring out a previous build sheet and expense report and show whats really involved and point out it could easily run 50%-to-70% more than they could buy a crate engine for and take at least 1-2 months or more to do, a great many people figure its not worth the cost. what shocks many of them is I don,t make squat doing it, its almost all parts and machine shop expenses. and when I make a list of what needs to be purchased checked and machined, most guys start questioning almost every expense, or part, everyone seems to have a nearly unlimited list of places that sell "similar" parts cheaper or machine shops that will do the job cheaper. and yes, many "machine shops" are LACKING in either SKILLED machinists or proper tooling, and many are SCAM artists or fail to do good work, or stand behind their work.
Ive had machine shops try to charge for a job they insisted they did when they did not even have the tools to do the job or ability to check the work, my favorite was the guy who wanted $180 for a DECK PLATE HONE on a caddy 500 ,yet he didn,t own a hone machine or a single engine deck plate
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=3897&p=26602&hilit=hone+plate#p26602
and years ago I had a "machine shop" drop ALUMINUM heads in a hot CAUSTIC SODA BATH to REMOVE THE GREASE, it also removed a great deal of aluminum!!
RESULTING IN EXPENSIVE PROFESSIONAL PORTED HEADS BEING DESTROYED
for taking the time to post the additional info, I remember a good deal of what went on during the process, but I know from long experience most guys reading the thread won,t bother to look back thru or remember much, so keeping the builds purpose in mind is critical.
it allows anyone reading thru the thread to get a FAR BETTER grasp on what your building and WHY youve selected the parts you did, for the build.
Your experience concerning the unexpected expense levels incurred during a building an engine correctly is hardly rare, but it comes as a huge shock to most first time engine builders, and its why I regularly point many guys who ask me to build an engine for them to buy a crate engine.
Once I bring out a previous build sheet and expense report and show whats really involved and point out it could easily run 50%-to-70% more than they could buy a crate engine for and take at least 1-2 months or more to do, a great many people figure its not worth the cost. what shocks many of them is I don,t make squat doing it, its almost all parts and machine shop expenses. and when I make a list of what needs to be purchased checked and machined, most guys start questioning almost every expense, or part, everyone seems to have a nearly unlimited list of places that sell "similar" parts cheaper or machine shops that will do the job cheaper. and yes, many "machine shops" are LACKING in either SKILLED machinists or proper tooling, and many are SCAM artists or fail to do good work, or stand behind their work.
Ive had machine shops try to charge for a job they insisted they did when they did not even have the tools to do the job or ability to check the work, my favorite was the guy who wanted $180 for a DECK PLATE HONE on a caddy 500 ,yet he didn,t own a hone machine or a single engine deck plate
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=3897&p=26602&hilit=hone+plate#p26602
and years ago I had a "machine shop" drop ALUMINUM heads in a hot CAUSTIC SODA BATH to REMOVE THE GREASE, it also removed a great deal of aluminum!!
RESULTING IN EXPENSIVE PROFESSIONAL PORTED HEADS BEING DESTROYED
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87vette81big
Guest
Thank You Bob for not building another AFR 195 355 or 383 boring sbc.
Its the most overdone copy cat engine in Corvette History .
Look on Corvette Forum . They don't know how to
build anythng else.
If you did I would have changed TV channels.
RHS 200 400CI SBC Will Perform.
I am a Rear Differential expert like Grumpy is with BBC's.
Your 1976 Nova has the GM Corporate 8.5 Rear.
Came out in 1971. Variation of it still being used today in New Silverado 1/2 ton pickups.
BR
Its the most overdone copy cat engine in Corvette History .
Look on Corvette Forum . They don't know how to
build anythng else.
If you did I would have changed TV channels.
RHS 200 400CI SBC Will Perform.
I am a Rear Differential expert like Grumpy is with BBC's.
Your 1976 Nova has the GM Corporate 8.5 Rear.
Came out in 1971. Variation of it still being used today in New Silverado 1/2 ton pickups.
BR
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87vette81big
Guest
That is why I Love Building Rear Differentials for people Grumpy !
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87vette81big
Guest
mathd said:Why lash cap? valve tip not hardened?, valve tip too small for heavy lift? Thats just extra weight increasing chances of valve train floating.
here is diffeerence between 10 bolt reaar:
I use lash caps too.
Prevents Valvestem tip wear with very high open spring pressures of 400-1000lbs.
Must have for long term valvetrain life 7k rpms +.
Must have with Titanium Valves as I use in my Pontiac V8 engines.
Extra 1 or 2 grams toss weight nothing.
Especislly when Titanium intake valve weighs only 60-80 grams
Stainless 120-150 grams.
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87vette81big
Guest
Titanium valvelocks made also.
Use likewise.
Use likewise.
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
Actually Brian, It came with a 7.625 rearend, I pulled it and replaced it with the 8.2 I found in a salvage yard for almost nothing. I did all the research, chased down the tag on it and Mathd's picture shows the housing on the far right, and it was also geared for highway useage with 2.73 ratio. So what I did was sell it on craigslist to someone restoring 77 nova that had a cracked center housing on theirs rearend. But what I did was take the 8.2, It measured exactly the same as the 7.625 in drum to drum width, i had to move the spring pedestals in line with the leafs on the nova and set the pinion angle exactly as the 7.625 angle. I tacked them in place and welded them up solid. The I build a set of stands to bring the housing up to about midsection heighth. The only thing not new is the housing itself, all internals are new, seals, bearings, eaton posi unit, strange axles, crush sleeve. All the books I have say it had a 8.5 also, but when I got to looking it had the 7.625, its kinda funny though, I have a few buddies in our nova club that have 76 models also and they have the 8.5, but now this is the weird part, they have the bigger rearend, but have a narrower radiator core. Their novas have the 23 inch core and my nova has the 27 inch core. Kinda funny, when I was ordering chrome parts the radiator top piece was too small. Then I found out that the Camaros had the 27 inch core, so I reordered that piece for a camaro and it fit like a glove.87vette81big said:
Anyway, back to the rearend, I completely went through it with a fine tooth comb. All bearings were stiff, and the differential was very tight when it went in. The backlash was hard to get right, I had to pull the pinion bearing once to add a shim and shimmed the ring gear once to get the backlash correct. But I got a good gear pattern in the yellow gear marker I used. The hardest part was to get the pinion bearing set correctly. I had to buy a in/lbs torque wrench, and get it set for the pinion turning at 18. Once together it was tight but turns very good.
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
Actually, I am glad the stiff job came when it did, it gave me the chance to delve into looking at heads more deeply and understand the minute differences, that make a big difference in how the engine performs. I learned a great deal reading the Reher Morrison book and the Horsepower Chain book also. But what I am really hoping for is a very strong street performer and go down on the main drag and blow the doors off several rice burners. Hahahahahahahahahaha!!busterrm said:
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
The RHS heads have the 10 degree super locks, and they have a lash cap groove incorporated in the super lock. Since this is going to have a roller and 340 -345 spring pressures I want the valve tips to be protected.mathd said:Why lash cap? valve tip not hardened?, valve tip too small for heavy lift? Thats just extra weight increasing chances of valve train floating.
Nice picture of the hardware
here is diffeerence between 10 bolt reaar:
busterrm ?
did you select those valve covers in the picture you posted above, based on looks or price?
I have several sets of different valve covers I,ve used over the years and I,m currently using that exact set on my current corvette,
truthfully, mostly in my case, based on the combo of factors , of low price , mostly,so I don,t feel bad bending them to get required clearance, and the fact that I was forced to use tall valve covers to clear the rockers I use, and tall valve covers needed to be dimpled in the corner to allow them to fit both my roller rockers (they are taller than a stock set) and the fact they can be easily bent or dimpled to get clearance for my corvettes windshield wiper motor clearance)
BTW youll like that intake, it has always worked well on most SBC street combos, and I think youll find the ignition works rather well!
did you select those valve covers in the picture you posted above, based on looks or price?
I have several sets of different valve covers I,ve used over the years and I,m currently using that exact set on my current corvette,
truthfully, mostly in my case, based on the combo of factors , of low price , mostly,so I don,t feel bad bending them to get required clearance, and the fact that I was forced to use tall valve covers to clear the rockers I use, and tall valve covers needed to be dimpled in the corner to allow them to fit both my roller rockers (they are taller than a stock set) and the fact they can be easily bent or dimpled to get clearance for my corvettes windshield wiper motor clearance)
BTW youll like that intake, it has always worked well on most SBC street combos, and I think youll find the ignition works rather well!