renegade intake? for cross fires

Now that's what I'm talking about !!! Thank You !!! Excellent !!!
so much easier get details about each part before one of us comments. If left to us
then sometimes we are going to take the easy path and just guess.

I think we getting a handle on the SCR/DCR of your motor, but you have a
Quench Distance(QD) = .064 inches. That needs to be reduced by head gasket
thickness or milling the block. Have your block checked for warping of the deck
surface, you might have to deck it enough to flatten it out or maybe you want
to take more for your QD. To make your measurements now, you will want to
assemble the rotating assemble enough to check deck height with your new parts.
But I don't see your pistons, rods or crankshaft.

Let's pretend for a moment that you are going to deck the block by .010 inches thus
leaving the deck height at .015 now. Now change to gasket thickness to .025 inches
and you have your QD of .040 inches ..... right were you want it!!! Now what does
this do to your CRs???

Engine 1 is pushing it on the DCR with 91 octane, so lets try the bigger chamber head
of 70cc for engine 2, well that's abit too low for the DCR. Lets try for engine 3 going
back to the 64cc heads and retarding the camshaft 4°. Sweet right in there at 8.05 DCR.

The above is just an example, so figure out what pistons you might want, some have 5cc
and some have 7.5 cc for the valve reliefs.

But are you not going to bore the engine? Better change number and run the calcs again!
What octane do you plan on using???

NOTE: The changing number for each subsequent engine is big and RED.

GibblesDCR01.JPG


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Starting to make more sense for me, I appreciate it!

I have a dial indicator on order that should be here by this weekend.

And I'm currently not planning on pulling my engine or messing with the rods or pistons, however if my block needs to be decked I might as well toss in another thousand...
So by this weekend I should have some numbers.

And I plan on running premium @ 91 octane
 
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if you need to pull and dis-assemble the short block,and deck the block,
that most likely will mean your going to replace the pistons rings bearings,
and in that case your surely going to carefully inspect the crank,
probably find it needs to be polished and seeing as theres 100K plus miles on the clock all ready,
it would be smart to pitch stock connecting rods in the closest dumpster by the time thats done,
the new rods clearanced and balanced, its just faster and cheaper and easier to go the 383 cubic inch displacement route with a 3.75" stroker crank,
or the 396 route with a 3.875" stroker, used in your block, and in either case the block probably needs a .030 over bore clean up,with 100 k miles
IS IT NOT AMAZING HOW THE MONEY EXPENDED ON AN engine REBUILD.
POTENTIALLY,
CASCADES INTO AN EXPENSIVE
EXPLOSION, ONCE THIS GETS GOING ?
now before you ask most guys go 383 sbs when upgrading displacement because its far less expensive or critical ,and parts are far cheaper and more common,and
machine work to clearance correctly than a 396 sbc version, but either strokers easily a quick 40-50 extra ft lbs of tq and 50 hp,over almost the whole rpm range

related
INFO, IM NOT SUGGESTING YOU NECESSARILY NEED TO PULL THE SHORT BLOCK I'M SIMPLY GIVING YOU INFO SHOULD THE NEED ARISE
YES ITS WORTH READING THROUGH AS EDUCATIONAL INFO

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-info.38/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/stroker-tips-by-len-emanuelson.1249/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/checking-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lding-a-350-or-upgrading-too-a-383-sbc.11408/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ould-you-build-a-350-or-a-383-sbc-combo.8310/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rods-that-don-t-destroy-your-budget.10958/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ectly-and-get-it-to-last-cam-install-info.90/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/350-383-rebuild.11115/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/upgrade-choices.11416/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-pumps-pressure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/


BTW PARTS MUST BE CAREFULLY INSPECTED AND CLEANED AND PROTECTED FROM RUST AND DIRT
blastcab.jpg

chicagoelectric20gallon.jpg

chicagoelectric20gallona.jpg

chicagoelectric20gallonb.jpg
 
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Good info,
And yes I was thinking 383 if I end up rebuilding, I have also been watching for a decent 400 block with crank to show up in the local ads.
However I'm unsure how it would run with out a computer reprogram/swap.
I'm hoping to have the computer swap/upgrade figured out before I have to do a rebuild...
 
Slowly making it through the threads, and i got my measurement tools.

I found tdc and found a .025 feeler gauge was perfectly flush with the top of the block (with pistons cleaned).

Today I'll spend some time checking the block some more, however so far using my straight edge and a flashlight it looks perfectly flat, however i had to do some cleaning first.
The bore is 4.00 at the top, i need to re take the bore measurement, but so far it looks great...

Next issue is finding the correct headgasket... The one i pulled off measured about .022

And i found a plastic toothed timing gear, teeth still in one piece, but plastic...
 
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There is less selection in the thinner gaskets and they seem to be more expensive. Below
is the .021" gasket I used, just a different bore size. SCE says you have to use an O-Ring,
but Grumpy has used them many times without the o-ring. I've done the same with no
problems after 1800 miles.

This gasket can be re-used!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-p11062/overview/
 
Thank you for the link

for the bore size how important is it to come close to the 4in of my bore?

And i just confirmed the largest size i got midway down in the bores flat against the piston was 4.001... Im double checking the number...
And i can still make out a light cross hatch pattern in bores.

I also confirmed the serial on the engine matches the vin.

I expected that but it's nice to confirm it
 
Good stuff,
Searching around yesterday i recall some copper head gaskets in that bore range.

Im sure this is covered however copper and aluminium... The boat i redid was an aluminium cuddy, i learned all about mixing metals...
While i doubt i'll have an issue unless i run salt water, radiator cleaner has me thinking...
 
And i just confirmed the largest size i got midway down in the bores flat against the piston was 4.001

What are you using to measure the bore...... snap gauges? How has your experience been with them? Mine was not so good?
 
You want only big enough that none of the gasket is hanging inside the cylinder. Mine was
only .030 (4.155 - 4.125) bigger than my bore and I had to do some trimming. So the 4.060
should be big enough, you still have to check and make sure thou!
 
Ok so there is a little bevel at the top of my cylinder, I will want to check that size to confirm it won't overlap correct?
 
If you are talking about this edge with White/Red arrows, then ....YES.

If in doubt, then put the cylinder head on with gasket. Flip the block over and look thru the
bottom end (without crank).... can you see or feel any gasket showing.

CylinderTaperAtTop.jpg
 
easy enough!

And re-visiting the good times with DCR, I have no idea on the volume for the valve cut out's in my pistons, however there is a part number on top of my piston that might give me a hint if I'm lucky...
I looked at a measurement tool, however measuring liquid won't work since the pistons are not being removed from the engine.
maybe if I can use some silly putty, and figure out how to measure that?

Plastic modeling clay could work also, I also know that if you hit it with a flame it will turn into a liquid pretty fast... :)

If I'm reading this right... with the numbers I have now Its looking like I might want those 64cc heads?
Advancing it by 4 degrees also drops that DCR down a little to low (7.96), however advancing it by 2 degrees put's me in that 8.08 range...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4760

upload_2015-11-2_9-3-32.png
 
And re-visiting the good times with DCR, I have no idea on the volume for the valve cut out's in my pistons, however there is a part number on top of my piston that might give me a hint if I'm lucky...

If you don't find the CC's for the valve reliefs from the part number, the pistons with
2 cutouts = 5cc and pistons with 4 cutouts = 7.5cc. That's what I remember seeing when
researching pistons.

maybe if I can use some silly putty, and figure out how to measure that?

Drop the Silly Putty in a beaker of water(known volume), the volume will rise equal to
the volume of the silly putty.

If I'm reading this right... with the numbers I have now Its looking like I might want those 64cc heads?
Advancing it by 4 degrees also drops that DCR down a little to low (7.96), however advancing it by 2 degrees put's me in that 8.08 range...

The calcs look good to me, but What Octane fuel are you going to use ????????
 
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