timing chain

fast84vette

Well-Known Member
how big of a job is to change the timing chain? some guy was working on my car and told me the car cant have the timing set cuz there is to much play in the timing chain and he thinks it either stretch because of the heat or is a couple teeth off and he wants to charge me $150.
 
IF that price includes a decent quality timing chain like CLOYES TRUE ROLLER
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

read THESE links
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-chains-stretch.5734/#post-17492

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hanics-of-adv-ret-a-camshaft.4532/#post-67562

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...et-it-to-last-cam-install-info.90/#post-57942

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nter-1-for-timing-ignition-cam.966/#post-1682

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-668

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...king-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/#post-488

http://www.competitionproducts.com/Camshaft-Degreeing-and-Cam-Measuring-Tools/products/1387/


clo-9-3100-10_w.jpg

youll generally use LOC-TITE on the retainer bolts threads
use loc-tight on the bolt threads to reduce any tendency for them coming loose
266loc.JPG

http://www.cloyes.com/HighPerformance/P ... fault.aspx
thats a REAL BARGAIN on labor, just be sure you see the old timing set removed and the new set installed , because at that price ID suspect it won,t be!

if it includes a cheap imported timing chain its still a good deal on labor

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

clo-c-3023x_w.jpg




http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ectly-and-get-it-to-last-cam-install-info.90/

scan10001B.gif

454build2.jpg

a properly installed nylon cam button with a bolt retainer plates a good idea
 
Last edited by a moderator:
well here are the pics. the holes are not lined up. so i dont know if they skipped. Also do i need a new damper? looks like its worn out

SSPX0115.jpg

SSPX0114.jpg


SSPX0113.jpg

SSPX0112.jpg
 
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90

read thru the thread above and look carefully at the sub links and info

ans YES you NEED a new damper, and a cloyes TIMING SET,
and if I owned the car I would pull the oil pan , to clean out the oil pan and pump pick up,as those bits of nylon timing gear teeth are surely partly restricting oil flow into the oil pump pick up
 
the oil pump pick-up is the tube and screen collector on the end that allows you to adjust the depth of the suction or input entrance of oil flow to the oil pump, you need to braze it to the pump body after carefully verifying the depth of the pick-up from the oil pan floor
stock ones commonly look like this
mel-55-s1_w.jpg

710oilpumps.jpg



http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Oil-Pump- ... GoogleBase

ses-3-60-08-037_w.jpg

READING THRU these threads below should help, if the budget allows it, now would be a great time to install a baffled high capacity oil pan, but if moneys tight at least clean out the oil pump and pick-up and replace the oil pan gasket


viewtopic.php?f=32&t=459

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=279

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=902&p=1463&hilit=puller%E2%80%A6#p1463

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1800&hilit=braze

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1192&p=3134&hilit=braze#p3134

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=615

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=901&p=1462&hilit=puller%E2%80%A6#p1462

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=206&p=1154&hilit=+piece#p1154

be sure you ask questions before ordering oil pan gaskets, an oil pump or any other component as the design changed during some years, the gasket thickness, the side the dipstick was on and other factors changed so be sure your getting the correct parts for your application

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-Blo ... layId=5083
91015104_L.jpg
 
hi. i have everything ready to get started on the timing chain. but i was confused on how this seal goes on the timing chain cover. i think i mess the cover up while removing it. you can see some dents around the whole. but i dont know how or where the seal goes. i bough it with the gasket set.

SSPX0131.jpg

SSPX0132.jpg
 
the front timing cover seal, that provides the oil seal on the damper as it slides into the cover on the crank snout is pressed in from the front, most guys tap it in with a plastic mallet,after carefully cleaning and repainting the stock cover or buying a new chrome timing chain cover as they are fairly cheap,youll want to be coating the outside edge of the seal with a liquid sealant while the timing cover is supported from the rear on a block of wood,the seals knocked out from the rear with a flat blade screw driver and a small hammer , used at an angle on the inside lip, replace it so the inner seals lip angles in towards the crank not out toward the front damper
BUT most guys simply buy a new cover since they are cheap and don,t bother cleaning the old one if it looks damaged, at $8-$10, for a new cover its hardly worth taking a chance, with the old one if its damaged

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3200/

g3200_w.jpg

tc6.jpg

tc1.jpg


tc2.jpg

tc3.jpg


tc4.jpg

tc5.jpg
 
fast84vette said:
ok thanks..
also what was it that you told me to do to turn the big cam gear because mine is very hard


IF your trying to align the cam and crank gears with the rockers and push rods still adjusted your fighting a lot of un-necessary resistance!
back off the ROCKER NUTS! TO REDUCE THE SPRING PRESSURE until its TIMED TO THE CRANK
(degree in the cam without the push rods and rockers)
AFTER THE CAMS INDEXED CORRECTLY THEN RE ADJUST THE VALVES

if your installing a new cam bring the crank gear index mark to 12 o,clock, and the cam timing gear index mark to 6 o clock, after you look at these threads again

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=611&hilit=+turning

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=455&p=559&hilit=+turning#p559

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=196

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=974

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1759

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=902&p=1463&hilit=puller#p1463

scan0001.gif
 
hey paul. what type of drill bit would you suggest to get because i already broke three bit trying to make a hole in the broken bolt.
 
in an ideal world youll have a decent center punch
WAS-03-38176.jpg

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... 4&ct=image
so the drill won,t wander, off center in the first bit of drilling the hole for the bolt extractor

http://www.jackstoolshed.com/index/page ... ll+Bit+Set

your local hard ware store probably has COBALT DRILL BITS, or DIAMOND DRILL BITS, but read the label you need, a bit rated for hard steel, take your time, drill a lower RPM speeds and keep the bit wet with spray oil AT ALL TIMES or it will burn and dull the edge, youll most likely need a 1/8" and a matching EASY OUT

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/drillfaq.htm

http://www.askthebuilder.com/How_To_Dri ... ideo.shtml

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=807&p=1177#p1177

http://www.toolprice.com/category/screw ... drillbits/

http://www.toolprice.com/product/1218A/ ... moval.html

http://www.toolprice.com/product/8304D/ ... o_USA.html

8304d10pclefthandbits.jpg
 
i think i am screwed now. i drilled a small hole and was using the extracter to remove it but then it broke off so now the piece is stuck now. what can i do now?? this is becoming a pain.
 
pull the distributor,
pull the intake,
pull the lifters and bring the cam after you pull that to a machine shop so they can remove it
OR just get a NEW cam and lifters, so you can upgrade while your at it, Id suggest the ERSON
E110020K as it will work correctly with your current set-up and boost hp about 30hp over the stock cam

specs>> 275/278 209/216 .435/.455 112


http://www.pbm-erson.com/store.php?catI ... parent=327

ID also at least think about use of RHODES LIFTERS,they will have a noticeable ticking sound like solid lifters at idle but they make the slightly larger duration cam run similar to the stock cam at under 3000rpm, making it far more street friendly with stock rear gears

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RHL-8178/
 
ok thanks!. i was thinking about a new cam but i dont think i will keeps this car long. but what are the advantages of that new?
 
am i going to have to lift the motor up a little to remove the cam because it looks like the frame beam is in the way
 
hey here are some pics of my intake removed. so do i need to remove the valve covers too? so i can pull the cam out?

put does everything look ok?

SSPX0145-1.jpg

SSPX0139.jpg

SSPX0140.jpg

SSPX0141.jpg

SSPX0142.jpg

SSPX0143.jpg
 
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