Unforgiven Project

I meant "solid" vs modern "freewheel" supercharger pulley, i belive the Hellcats use them!? My language is not english, makes it hard to describe things :thinking:
 
Thunderbolt said:
I meant "solid" vs modern "freewheel" supercharger pulley, i belive the Hellcats use them!? My language is not english, makes it hard to describe things :thinking:
Click to expand...

It's all good my friend.
I might not be understanding you correctly .
Are you referring to a fixed position tensioner, like a XX-71 blower, instead of the spring loaded tensioner on the 177.?
 
The pulley have a "one way coupling", also on modern alternator pulleys.
Below Hellcat OEM Hellcat pulley:
dodge-370ci-v-8-supercharged-hellcat-hemi-engine-pulley-de-coupler.jpg
 
Thunderbolt said:
Within the Hellcat's supercharger pulley is this de-coupler, which allows torque to be transmitted through it only in one direction. The coil on the inner spool expands against the drum of the outer pulley shell and locks it, but only when moved in one direction.
Click to expand...

ok...i understand now.
 
Indycars said:
I think you may have understated how ugly that radiator is !!! :)

How did you go about getting the engine side mounts located properly?
Click to expand...

Hi Rick.... I was almost embarressed to even take a pic of it. It came from an old project I was working on for someone a long
time ago. I had forgotten I had it stored up in the barn attic. I will eventually replace the radiator with a nicer one, but for now, if it don't
leak and will flow water, i'll use it.;)

What I did Rick was fabricate the rear posts first. I tilted them back so the engine would sit tilted back about 5 degrees. This is how it sits in the truck. The carb will sit level at this angle, and it assures me that the oil will flow toward the pump.

Once I was happy with the rear mount, I bolted the motor onto those posts. With the engine also still connected to the cherry picker, I could
control the front of the engine to hold it in place. I cut out a card board template to represent the 2" tubing I was going to use, and
drilled a hole into it where it would connect to the engine mount. I positioned the template so that the holes aligned and scribed a
line where it it would sit . This is a quick sketch of how I did it.
mount.jpg
Once I was satisfied with the length of the cardboard, I cut the tubing..
 
Unforgiven said:
I will eventually replace the radiator with a nicer one, but for now, if it don't
leak and will flow water, i'll use it.
Click to expand...
I would have done the same thing myself. Just couldn't help myself from poking fun at you
when I had the opportunity! :rolleyes:

Unforgiven said:
With the engine also still connected to the cherry picker, I could
control the front of the engine to hold it in place.
Click to expand...
This is the part I was wondering about, thanks for the nice explanation! ( I will refrain from
commenting on the drawing, LOL ).
.
 
Nice work so far. Use a FORD starter solenoid going to the starter. Make a jumper for the "S" terminal to the heavy battery lug. That way the only time that cable has voltage is when you are actually cranking the motor. Many things are happening really quickly once you fire the engine and you can eliminate this as another potential problem.
 
Last edited:
Loves302Chevy said:
Nice work so far. Use a FORD starter solenoid going to the starter. Make a jumper for the "S" terminal to the heavy battery lug. That way the only time that cable has voltage is when you are actually cranking the motor. Many things are happening really quickly once you fire the engine and you can eliminate this at another potential problem.
Click to expand...

Mike... That is a GREAT idea! Thank you... I will look into doing just that.
Last night I was doing some more wiring on the stand and was actually wondering what to do with that starter end of the cable.

Your idea is just what I was looking for!
I managed to get the battery tray welded and a power point installed.

The pic below shows how I mounted the power point to the inside of the gauge panel leg..There is a plastic cap the covers the terminals when all is said and done.
The RED arrow indicates where I installed a 30 amp inline fuse to protect the power point.

IMG_0849.JPG IMG_0851.JPG
 
Looking good. Keep at it.
On my test stand, I used to try to run the engine with as many accessories on it as possible, to most closely match the way it would be in the vehicle.
But over the years, I have simplified things some. No more water pumps and belts - I made adapters to use garden hose in, garden hose out.
I elevate the hot water out hose to prevent air pockets and a valve is in there to keep some pressure in the block.
The cold water from the faucet only has to be turned on like a drinking water fountain to keep the block and heads cool to warm - never hot. So no radiator necessary either. The battery charger takes the place of the alternator. The simpler - the better.
Once that engine fires, you are going to be running around like a tazmanian devil checking for leaks, listening for noises, adjusting timing, watching gauges, etc. Your first time will be crazy. And fun. Hope it goes well.
 
I agree Unforgiven, you might need a crossbar between those motor mount uprights. Make it stronger1
 
Coty came over last night to help and offer a "second set of eyes" before we fired up the motor . We both agreed that it would be best to add that cross brace between the motor mount posts to complete a triangular shape for strength. I also want to add a small gusset on the rear posts.
I have an extra AEM A/F gauge that I am going to install on the stand also. This will be a very nice tool to use for adjusting fuel delivery.
Coty has an old fan for the radiator and an electric fuel pump he is donating to the stand also.

We found that the power point I installed was constantly HOT. Coty switched some wires so that ALL power was controlled with the on/off
switch. Other than that... The wiring was good!

The 10 AN hard fuel lines were giving me some grief on the stand. I did not have any type of flex line in 5/8" or even 1/2" size to temporarily
use for the test fire. All I had was hard line. So after some thought... I made up two hard lines. The A1000 fuel pump is located under the bed of the truck and the fuel cell is mounted in the bed. I just plumbed into there.

After all checks were done.... Coty hit the start button......NOTHING !
We pulled a plug wire and used a spare plug that we grounded to the stand ... and found we had no spark.

After about an hour of going over ALL the wiring and double checking connections..we found nothing wrong.
We decided that maybe we had to reprogram the hand held for the stand alone Sniper System because it was disconnected for a few months.
We found that YES this was the case ...but we still are getting no spark.
We called it a night at this point and decided to revisit this engine on Saturday afternoon.

I has to be something very simple that we are over looking,
Possibly a ground situation on the test stand might be the issue.
 
I just re-watched the Holley install video and discovered the problem. We miss read the manual for the white wire. We left it disconnected when it should have been connected.
 
No... it is a points output wire. it is a communication line between the Hyperspark distributor and the Sniper EFI, and tells the coil when to fire.
The manual we were reading last night musta been for MSD ignition, cause it is wired differently according to Holley.

Funny part is... We questioned that wire twice. But the paper work we were using stated that it is NOT used. If We would have read the writing on the wire...It is printed all over it..points output.
Coty was correct again.... it was just a wire we were overlooking , and it was getting late.
 
Forgot about points distributor (not HEI) and you must have been tired when you read the directions and not the wire. OR you need glasses like me and a magnifying glass to read small print!!:D;)o_O
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top