1966 Chevelle Project

When I painted my oil pan the first time the paint did not stick since it had that gold coating. The
paint came off in big patches. I mention this because I see the washers have a coating of some kind
and wander if the paint will stick to it? Maybe you should hit them with flap wheel before welding
them in since you can't get to the inside afterwards.
 
Thanks Rick... I would not say it is fully welded... But it is in nice shape..
My frame guy stopped over on Saturday and we measured the frame for square....Its alot easier with two people!!!!
Found that the frame is out .200 that's within factory specs according to him.
He said not to touch it.

Also I got the new bushings installed and bolted the car back on the frame.
I got thinking about putting the doors back on and thought why? I have not cut anything out..

So I pulled alot of measurements then welded in the bracing ..
After I was happy about it....I unbolted the mounts and lifted the body off the frame.

I then remeasured to be sure nothing moved.....It was spot on!!!

I am now looking on how I am going to support the body while I cut the floor out.


here is the new bushing.
IMG_1585.JPG


body is all braced up..
IMG_1588.JPG
 
Unforgiven said:
So I pulled alot of measurements then welded in the bracing ..
Click to expand...
Can you explain or show what measurements you used to confirm nothing moved?

Did the bracing go past the rear seat, I can't tell from the photo ?

Unforgiven said:
OK Rick... I'll grind it off.
Click to expand...

On the inside ???

I would rather you leave the coating on so I can tell you ..... I TOLD YOU SO ! :p
I really have no idea if it's the same for that washer, just thought I would mention my observation.
 
IMG_1592.JPG



91 1/2" is the diagonal from A pillar to a mark near the rear of the side window area.

The 65 3/4" is forward to rear on the same marks.


IMG_1589.JPG

These dimensions are for when I cut out the floor.
They are width of rockers and a plumb bob location to a body mount.

Now remember....I have not cut anything out so nothing should have moved. I wanted to see if my bracing was good.
 
Indycars said:
Did the bracing go past the rear seat, I can't tell from the photo ?
Click to expand...

No it does not Rick.
I felt that the wheel housings and trunk floor and package tray will hold it side to side.
I am only replacing the cabin floor first so as not to lose to much structural support. Also I am leaving the outer rockers on
to aid in support. I will replace them when the floor is welded in. Then I will move on to the rear half of the car and replace it.
My thoughts are to place a 8" riser of some sort between the front and rear frame mounts and body (kinda like a tall bushing).
This will raise the rockers above the frame rails and allow me access to the spot welds.
I would love to hold the body up with the TWO POST car LIFT.... But once the inner rockers are removed I don't think the outers
are strong enough to hold the car ... I think they would buckle and cause the car to come down on top of my head and put a big dent in the roof!
That would cause me extra work.

I am taking NO chances with safety either. ;):)
 
There is no turning back now!
IMG_1594.JPG

I added a few more cross bracing for good measure before I cut the floor out.
Also.. I took about 20 more measurements and recorded them. This is the first time I have taken on a
project like this so I am trying to cover all bases..

I ended up making risers out of 2x4 's ... I thought it would be best to keep the body supported on six mount points.
It is high enough to access the back side of the rockers and cowl now.

I kept the lift post arms about an inch below the body as added security while I cut the floor out.
I must say....I was very nervous cutting that floor...I did not know what to expect.

I used the plasma cutter to remove the floor in three manageable sections..I stayed 1-2" inboard on the perimeter of the floor
so I could remove the bulk of it. Now I will go back and remove the spot welds and only have to deal with smaller and lighter pieces
of the floor.
I rechecked my measurements after the floor was out and they are all reading the same,,,,,YEA!!!!
 
yes its obviously both an interesting and extensive and complex project
 
Indycars said:
Would a rotisserie be worth making for this project ?
Click to expand...

One of Coty and I have a mutual friend who built one a couple months ago.. He has a Jeep body on it now but said
it will be available in about 4 weeks if I need it. Been doing ALOT of research on using one...the consensus is that they are really only used for
painting and not major body work.....for a beginner from my understanding. I understand that it would be best to do as much of the body work
on the frame.

Grumpy said:
yes its obviously both an interesting and extensive and complex project
Click to expand...

Don't forget FUN AS HELL too Grumpy!

I love a challenge....and BOY did I get one! :)

On another note: I found a company called National Parts Depot that carries most everything I need...and they are open on Saturday and Sunday from 9-5

They are located about 5 miles south of our son and his family...which is about 1:45:00 drive for us... Instead of paying the freight and shippiing costs, I now have a place I can walk in and pick up my parts...BONUS is that we can see the grand kids at the same time! The wife is VERY happy with that arrangement!!! Well...ME TOO!
 
I had a 350 sbc block given to me over the weekend. It has a stock 4.00 bore . It even came with an engine stand.
It was tore down years ago but was coated in grease for storage.
The block was made in Mexico as the second pic shows with an arrow.

I think I may build a nice street engine out of it instead of rebuilding the 327 engine for her car.
I think for the cost...it would be a smart move to stroke it ...
I will have it decked an line bored for good measure.

target HP will be 500-550.
Alesia wants the blower so it should be easy to make those numbers with only a few pounds of boost.
The numbers are not important...reliability is #1


Anyway...it was FREE!
IMG_1620.JPG IMG_1618.JPG
 
congrats on the new block acquisition,:D
have a local machine shop clean it carefully ,inspect it and ideally verify bore wall thickness
and check for cracks etc. and add new cam bearings and brass freeze plugs if the blocks in rebuildable condition.:rolleyes:
yeah thats likely to cost you $100-$180 but well worth it,:p
knowing your not dealing with hidden flaws and problems
 
What....really???

I was willing to bet you would have said to buy a Dart SHP, you would be money ahead !!!

What happened ???
 
your correct that the factory OEM blocks not ideal for a 500-525hp plus engine build
BUT the OEM blocks FREE, so getting it into saleable condition is a good idea,
the OEM block it is NOT nearly the ideal choice, and its NOT going to be really useful in a 500 hp plus build
but it is valuable, and having it clean and professionally inspected, adding new cam bearings and freeze plugs , adds more value
and makes it far more desirable, you could get $500 -600 plus that way and probably less than $150-$250 in its current condition
chevy charges over $1000 for a bare chevy first gen block



related info
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-dart-shp-4-0-or-4-125.3219/

https://sdparts.com/i-19921630-chevrolet-performance-10105123-350-sbc-block.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-choice.10472/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/some-sources-for-engine-blocks.439/

https://www.chevrolet.com/performance-parts/components/engine/small-block/production-based-blocks

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/

dart
https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/chevrolet?keyword=blocks&ar=1&kr=chevy blocks
 
I will have the machine shop check it all out before we proceed with the machining.

The 500HP might be lofty but it was just a goal. If the car ends up being 400-450HP.. so be it. That is a
hell of alot more than she had back in school, and that 66 chevelle she had back then was alot of fun to drive.


Alesia has set in place what she wants in the car.

First and foremost.....NO DRAG CAR!

She wants a nice sounding street car that she can drive every day to work in the summer if she desires.

She really likes the blower look, and wants one installed. ( Yes.. she does. )
This car will RARELY see the north side of 4500 RPM"s with her driving.

The hardest request she has....She wants the deep bass note that is produced by a BBC..!
Obviously, a cam will give it the lopey sound, but thats not what she means. You guys know
the sound.

I got that sound out of my truck engine....but that is way to radical for the street.
I'm not too sure I can get that sound without punching the bore and high compression...which is NOT in
the parameters of this build.

I am thinking 9.5:1 static, aluminum heads, a 110 LSA cam with around a 230 DUR (which will bleed some pressure), a 177 roots sytle blower( 4-5psi), stroke to 383ci (maybey) ,EFI for reliability. and I was thinking a larger exhaust system.

The trans : 200r4 slightly built.
the rear: I was thinking 3.31

So... what do you think.
 
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I made my first patch last night. Got to use my new tools .
Started out with this.
QHSJ7093.JPG

So I made this piece

PFCN7898.JPG

Then I welded it into place. I did not fully weld the bottom because I am going to replace the rocker.
IMG_1625.JPG

Now I will move on to the section just to the right of my patch and cut it out and repair.
I keep telling myself...Fixing a little area at a time will get me to the end .
 
If you really want that big block distinctive rumble in that cars exhaust note/sound, why not build a 454 BBC engine,
and if you go that route you don't need a great many expensive aftermarket parts to build an engine that can provide the power/torque levels at under 5000 rpm.
a 454 with a decent cam and about 9:1 compression with a 671 supercharger providing 5 psi of boost would easily provide that sound and power with mostly OEM parts in the engine.
 
Indycars said:
must make you feel good to get that first one done.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rick...yes it felt good to actually add something to the car instead of disassembling stuff. I felt it was a good place to start
given I haven't used my welder in about a year. I can only get better from here on out. The better I get with all the hidden
metal work....the more confident I will be when it comes time to weld in new exterior panels.

Grumpy said:
If you really want that big block distinctive rumble in that cars exhaust note/sound, why not build a 454 BBC engine
Click to expand...

LOL!!!! I absolutely knew you would make that statement! :)

To be absolutely honest.... I have never even put a wrench on a BBC, let alone try to build one.
I would not know what I am looking for in heads cam selection and such.
It may be a myth...but I think they are more expensive to build also.

But... It may be the best way for a means to the end result.
I can't see it being cheaper though. I mean...I would still start with a full machined block that is purpose built
with all new parts.
 
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