I'm pretty damn sure you already know that, Smart Asses Are A Dime Dozen"HappyVette said:and yes it's starting to look like it might even get driven eventually???
busterrm said:HappyVette, :lol: :lol: :lol: , tell that one to Grumpy's wife!!!! '
I think its gonna be driven soon, I want to be his first passenger, unless his wife has dibs on that!grumpyvette said:I think youll be ok once you connect the battery ground to the cars frame, and yes it's starting to look like it might even get driven eventually???
The head have a "head to block" ground.. the dowels pins ;/Indycars said:
Moving the distributor and choke ground wires is a good idea, that will
clean it up a little! I ran those wire several months ago and didn't even
think about it when I started adding the 8 AWG grounding wires.
As far too many ground wires ..... it seems I've read not to depend on
threads to provide a good ground. They have antiseez on those for the
manifold and everywhere else is a gasket. You could be right Mathieu,
but I can't go wrong having too many grounds.
mathd said:The head have a "head to block" ground.. the dowels pins ;/
The starter and engine block has good contact and probably no antiseize anyway.(i never heard of a starter to block grounding problem?
I'm not sure you can count on the dowel pins to be a good connection. My block is painted where the starter mates with the block, so only the threads are making contact thru some oil I put on the threads.
The intake.. only electrical thing that ground off of it is the choke and distributor wich your going to move to the heads anyway... dont need a 8 awg for just that.
and the starter to frame.. you have engine to battery(and battery is ground to frame).. your just wasting your money and time man.
Engine to battery .... not sure what cable you are referring to here ???
probably creating ground loop with soo many grounds. or magnetic fields(if you ever worked with vacuum tube electronic.. you know what i mean).
Overkill is good, but not this time i think so.
I read the article you posted the link for. I can see there being a problem when you have something other than DC current, where its going to induce a voltage in another wire by a magnetic field.
mathd said:Well, i dont care, i was just saying i think its overkill.
I hope there is no hard feelings here! One thing we all like about cars, is doing it our way after listening to everyone's input.
with that many bolt on the head, and with the torque they have, i dont think there will be a electrical contact problem ever there.
With the block painted where the starter mate. if you didnt buy the cable yet, i would said to try it before adding a ground there. I guess it can't hurt to have a extra ground there.
Engine to battery..
Don't you have a big negative wire from the battery post to the engine block?, every car i have seen have one.
Since the battery is under the seat, the negative cable has always gone straight to the frame. The 1/0 cable I'm making for this now, is 13 inches long. That makes me think ..... I should have the same size 1/0 cable from the starter to the frame. The Powermaster starter can pull over 400 amp initially.
Dont get fooled by DC current only. While all your car's equipment work on DC, i see what your thinking.. but dont forget they may induce some AC like the electrical FANS or the alternator itself. That remind me of CB Radio high pitch squeal.