Electrical Wiring for a TBucket

philly said:
i cant remember if it was last week or monday? im just excited for it to land at your doorstep. i can sem to find where i posted originally that i had shipped it out... i think it was that same dday. anyway enjoy!
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Books are here!!!

I was busy with my other duties yesterday getting ready for a party and cooking
Gumbo for 12 people..... so I forgot to let you know that the books arrived .....
Sorry Phil. I know you were feeling that it was taking a long time and wondering
what's going on. Media rate is very slow, it has the lowest priority of any mail.

Anyway Thanks again !!!

 
right on man! hope they are of some use! theres plenty there for you to soak up on making the most economy off any carburetor setup combined with todays AFR monitoring it should be easier than days of old to dial it in.
 
Indycars said:

I still feel like I'm chasing my tail. Is this any better???

NO

I added a relay to take the load off the ignition switch

In your diagram the ignition switch is supposed to get power from the switched fuse panel which is supposed to be activated by the relay that is supposed to be powered by the key switch. You've created a circle that doesn't have any power. The relay can't close because the key switch doesn't have power.



Some of these things are so close physically (under the seat), that I
wonder if it makes sense to fuse a wire that is 6-12 inches long.
Click to expand...
 

My statement about chasing my tail was directly because I thought I had a loop
like you pointed out. I was just getting too tired of looking at it and decided to
go ahead and post the drawing.

Today my brother and I went wood shopping for the new dash to contain all the
additional gauges. I think I found something I can live with, it's called Padauk
and it's from Africa. You'll find Padauk in India, Indochina, the South Pacific,
West Africa, and even southern Florida. I was surprised that it only cost me
$27, the board is 40 x 8 x 15/16 inches. I was expecting to pay $50 to $75 for
something this nice.

DSC05926.JPG
Padauk.jpg

 
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I am watching you!

The one thing I am slightly frustrated by on my Ghia is the plastic imitation wood. (Most people don't notice it, but I do.) I would like to put real wood on there, but I am not sure how - especially since the dash is not straight...

I'm all eyes :eek::eek:
 
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DorianL said:
I am watching you!

The one thing I am slightly frustrated by on my Ghia is the plastic imitation wood. (Most people don't notice it, but I do.) I would like to put real wood on there, but I am not sure how - especially since the dash is not straight...

I'm all eyes :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
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Nice piece of wood to make the dash panel for the T!

Dorian, you might be able to use a thin veneer of real wood. If it has compound curves you might need to have it bonded using a vacuum process.
 

I went back and looked in your build thread to see what the dash looked liked.
Doesn't look easy, I think you would have to remove the metal dash area for the
gauges and replace with solid wood. No way to just add wood over dash.

 

Well , did I break out of the loop and get it right??? If not, then I'm ready for
some crayon instructions! :oops:

In this drawing I show 4 inline fuses coming off the cutoff switch, can all of
these go thru one of the bussed fuse panels. Doesn't seem possible when the
hot side is bussed. Am I all wet again???

Power&ChargingCircuitDrawing04.jpg

 
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Looks good to me as long as you're sure the wiring for the idiot light for the alt is correct. Don't forget that the fuse in the Alt wire that recharges the bat needs to be bigger than the alt charge capacity.
 

The idiot light is currently operating off that terminal of the alternator, but looks
wrong going to the fuse panel. Will have to think about this some more.

I will need a 200 amp fuse then, this should give me a little bit of cushion.

 

Trying to reduce the number of inline fuses from four to two. The size of the
"Always on Power" fuse was set at a 100 amps to reflect the maximum for the
Blue Sea fuse panel, specified by the manufacture. The wire gauge should be
minimum of 12 gauge per the table below, but I will run 10 gauge that's good
to 150 amps.

Also added the relay to a fused circuit.

Verified that my alternator idiot light operates now as it drawn in my circuit
diagram.

The changes are shown in BLUE.

Power&ChargingCircuitDrawing05.jpg
WireGaugeToAmpTable01.jpg

 
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The biggest fuse you can use in any one place of your "always on" fuse block is what? Maybe 30-35 amps? How much power can be used if everything in the "switched" fuse panel is turned on at the same time? Even though the potential handling capacity of the "switched " panel is 100 amps it's being supplied by a 30-35 amp fuse from the "always on" panel.
 

Ok, once again ...... were up to version 6 now. I do see what you are saying,
just have to read it a half dozen times first! :D

I added the two switches, Neutral Safety and Anti Theft. I remembered what you
said about where the Anti Theft switch should go and made that change also.

Power&ChargingCircuitDrawing06.jpg

Did I screw up anything this time with my changes???

 
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The change in the wiring for the switched power looks OK. The neutral safety and theft switch look fine. So what protects the alternator wire that was changed and is now connected to direct battery power at the cutoff switch?
 
NOT A TA said:
So what protects the alternator wire that was changed and is now connected to direct battery power at the cutoff switch?
Click to expand...

That is the sensing wire for the alternator and has never had protection in any
of the previous drawings.

What size fuse would it need, maybe something very small like 3 amps???

See blue wire for change.

Power&ChargingCircuitDrawing07.jpg

 
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I'm hoping that I'm done with the "Power & Charging" drawing, so on to the next

drawing. Since 80% of the "Starting & Ignition" drawing was in the "Power & Charging"
drawing, I simplified and called it "Ignition".

Ignition05.jpg

 
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What's the "RPM limiter set" switch in your diagram for? The 8360's have the built in rev limiter activated by grounding the tach wire. Is that the tach wire? If so how will the tach be wired?
 
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