My Cam Research for the Experts Eye

I'll probably just buy a length checker even though I've made a number of my shop tools, like my press and benders, along with a ton of smaller stuff. Sometimes though I'll just get lazy and buy it lol.
I'm really glad you posted that particular link section. There's a number of things I've been thinking about, including use of magnets and screens. I've always had a magnet on oil filters but I was looking at Grumpy's info on higher heat resistant magnets and valley screens. The pic he posted was good, I think it showed the right size mesh size. If you were to use a very dense screen you'd be creating a problem with oil collecting in the valley.
Thanks, I'll go through that section again.

Oh, here's the recipient of that happy horsepower with my grandson/helper....
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TXChevy said:
There's a number of things I've been thinking about, including use of magnets and screens.
Click to expand...
I've used magnets out of some old hard drives in the transmission pan and they seem to weather the temps OK.

TXChevy said:
Oh, here's the recipient of that happy horsepower with my grandson/helper....
Click to expand...
Very nice looking 57 Chevy and Cragar SS were always my favorite as a teenager.

I could sure use your helper if he ever gets free from your shop !!! Looks like he would be a big help !
 
Apologies, some of this can get random, but I've got the crankshaft hanging by the flange end in a wood rack that I made. I see a lot of discussion whether to do this, lay them down, or stand them up. Its been hanging for about a week and a half.
This is of course until I can at least set it back in the block, probably next week sometime.
Any consensus? Thanks.
 
If it standing vertical or hanging vertically, then I don't think you can go wrong. We are
only talking about few months, not several years ..... right ???

Seems like I've seen pics of the manufactures storing them hanging from vertically from
the flange.

Grumpy what have you seen for storage ?
 
Indycars said:
If it standing vertical or hanging vertically, then I don't think you can go wrong. We are
only talking about few months, not several years ..... right ???
Click to expand...
Yes, that's correct, actually for a few weeks. As soon as I get the block cleaned and prepped, I'll get it back in.
 
yeah, a crankshaft should be stood on end or preferably hung vertically if in storage or left in a block and sprayed liberally with grease,
as described and coated with rust preventive grease sprayed on the crank surfaces and ideally inside a taped air tight plastic bag, to prevent moisture damage, it will be fine for years, an occasional inspection and re-spray with grease won,t hurt either


this spray is your best friend
ruust2.jpg
 
Lol Rick, my OCD agrees with that.
Thanks Grumpy, yes I've cleaned it, sprayed it and wrapped it. However before assembly it will get another thorough cleaning, all galleys, etc.

On another note, I wanted to thank you for this thread:

fuel pressure regulators

Volume vs. Pressure FUEL Volume and FUEL pressure are two completely different things when you talk about fuel,supplied to an engine, but they must work together to give you the proper air/fuel mixture delivery. Both carburetors and EFI systems require the proper fuel volume to make the desired...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

While I'm waiting on engine stuff I decided to move ahead on fuel system. I'm using a Tanks Inc EFI style tank for 57 Chevy and their GPA 2 series in-tank pump which provides more than adequate gph for my application. I did some metal work in the trunk and added a hinged access flush panel so it's very easy to get to the pump/sender.
Carb is a Holley 750 and I've also got an 850. With the Erson cam the 750 worked very well so I'll use that initially. I'm working on supply/return line routing and was considering what regulator to use. I don't want the bottom dollar but I don't want the top dollar either. I had been looking at that Holley 12-841 billet style unit, also the Edelbrock 174053, especially as noted in the link with consideration to the internal fuel flow.

PS I always use a oil pressure switch on the pump circuit.
 
TXChevy said:
While I'm waiting on engine stuff I decided to move ahead on fuel system.
Click to expand...
I might have you covered, although your application is going to be different with EFI and the
pump in the tank. But just maybe there is something that might apply to your situation.

And then there might be 1 or 2 links that Grumpy might come up with ? hehehehe !!!

Component Selection & Design for 500 HP Fuel System

Well I've resigned myself to another summer without driving my TBucket, that's both good and bad. Since I have another five months before it will be warm enough to drive an open car, I want to go thru the component selection and design for a fuel system that will feed the engine that I've built...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
 
That's great info, thanks. I'm using 3/8 ni-copp tubing. I've now used this material for several years for fuel and brake lines, I really like it. Flares well and I like anything I can buy in a roll and make it the exact length I need.
I made my own tubing straightener that works great. Just some sq tubing and nylon pulley rollers. Works on all sizes and doesn't scrape up the surface. Short lengths I can hold it in the vise, long lengths I just run it by hand over sections till it's all straight. 20210605_105938_resized.jpg
 
Do you have to run the tubing thru the straightener more than once to make it straight ?
 
Yes, you run it along the tubing as many times as it takes, turning the tubing as well. Or you can put in in a vise and run the tubing through it. If it's adjusted too tight the tubing will take a slight arch so then simply loosen slightly, you get the feel after a while. But it's remarkable how straight the tubing ends up - you know that it's almost impossible to straighten out a roll by hand.

I did a single length of 3/16 that ran from proportioning valve to axle brake hose, took about 10 min to get a straight length to work with. I don't like hand bends, I want the lines to be straight between bends that are smooth and uniform.20210605_110500_resized.jpg
 
I'll post a couple before/after pics of the first section of 3/8 tube. I've drawn out/measured the fuel line setup and it will use AN fitting connectors at several locations, plus AN hoses at the regulator.
I've used compression fittings before but it was with a Comp 110 pump, internal reg at 7 psi so it was a low pressure system. And almost the entire system was push-lok hose which I won't use again. I decided I just don't like it.

However, in this case, the in-tank pump is rated for 40-60 psi depending on voltage/gph so I believe that for leak prevention I need to use AN to flared tube adapters. I know that the AN fitting is 37 degrees, but it appears that the tube flare also needs to be single flare 37 degree? If so then I need to get the proper flare tool, as I only have a 45 degree flare tool. I'm not looking for one at hundreds of dollars as I don't expect to use it again for a long time.

What I mean is that the hoses and the inline fuel filter will have male AN fittings. The 3/8 tube will therefore need female AN to tube adapters, and due to the pressures involved they would need to be a 37 degree flare with tube nut to thread onto the male AN fitting at the hoses/filter. Hope I explained that ok lol.

I did look at this:

tubing , fuel lines and flaring

Here is some tools that might help, but before you go spending money on flare tools for hard fuel lines ,you might want to know that most hydraulic supply stores can fabricate really nice fuel, brake or coolant and transmission fluid hard lines or if needed flexible type hydraulic lines...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

I use the old standard double flare 45 degree flare tool you see everywhere for cheap, I've refined my process and get really good flares, especially since the ni-copp line is easier to work with, but it's been primarily for 3/16 & 1/4 tube. However for the larger 3/8 line I guess I may spring for something like this:
1636225231173.png
 
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3/8 tube as unrolled and after reworking. You'll feel the bumpy road start to get smooth as you move the tool and turn the tube at the same time.20211106_142258_resized.jpg106202114589.jpg
 
I have the Ridgid 377 37° flaring tool and it does a great job, I'm very happy with it. It
rolls the flare into the tube, instead of just push the cone straight into the tube. If you
look into the hole without a tube in the tool, the cone will be offset to one side.

Works on stainless steel, which was important for me.

Looks like Home Depot has it for $120.

1636229526795.png

www.homedepot.com

RIDGID 3/16 in. to 3/4 in. Model 377 Heavy-Duty Manual 37 Degree Flaring Tool for Copper, Brass, Aluminum, Steel Pipe & Tubing 41162 - The Home Depot

The RIDGID 377 Precision Non-Ratcheting Pipe Flaring Tool (catalog number 41162) produces smooth, uniform flares with minimum effort. The pipe flaring tool features a durable eccentrically-mounted, hardened
www.homedepot.com
www.ridgid.com

Precision Non-Ratcheting Flare Tools | RIDGID Tools

RIDGID's Precision Non-Ratcheting Flaring Tools provides smooth, uniform flares with minimum effort. Shop now.
www.ridgid.com www.ridgid.com
 
Thanks Rick, I may get the Rigid tool. Even if its very infrequent use, considering having to re-do leaky connections on a finished line, its going to be worth ensuring it won't be the fault of the tool.
Indycars said:
Wow, that's amazing how straight that turned out !
Click to expand...
Its a great little tool! If you look at the eastwood version, it scrapes the hell out of the tube plus its $$$. I think I've got about 10 bucks in mine.
 
I pulled the trigger on that Ridgid tool, I need to be able to install AN fittings.
I may need to have the hard lines generally in place due to location and going around some stuff - are you able to use it on a line that's partially installed? Meaning loosely in place on the car.
I've not installed anything yet, just wanted to find out about usage pros and cons.
Incidentally, my tubing tool mimics the set up used in steel mills or a factory where extensions are done. The semi-finished product goes through a number of rollers to straighten, simple and effective.
 
TXChevy said:
I may need to have the hard lines generally in place due to location and going around some stuff - are you able to use it on a line that's partially installed? Meaning loosely in place on the car.
Click to expand...
If you can slide the tube out a bit to gain some room, then flare it and slide it back, you will probably be OK.

Or maybe you can lower the engine into place, but don't bolt down. Cut the tubing to length and then
raise the engine and do your flaring. Not sure about the other end since I don't know what your dealing
with there.

BTW, when you are tightening down during the flaring process, the black handle with suddenly break-away
and spin freely. You did break anything, it has a mechanism that limits the torque.

Ridgid377_Dimension_03006.jpg

Ridgid377_Dimension_03008.jpg
 
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