Planning a new 383 build that is now going to be a 400

grumpyvette said:
youll certainly be able to run 7 quarts, but remember the engine almost never sits level theres almost always an angle in the drive line where the rear of the engines a bit lower where the sump is at the rear being lower by design, but keep in mind 1.5-to-2 quarts are circulating thru the upper engine while its actually running so the sump levels even lower during its operation.
btw look's like you did a really nice job on the oil pan/ windage tray fabrication Thanks Grumpy!

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=1025&p=1895#p1895
The first few oil changes will have an extra quart, I will be using 2 qt filters, with 7 qts in pan and 2 in the filter it will have 9 total.
 
I found a few helpful parts at speedway, they have those biscuits Rick along with pedestals to go with them for the front mounts. They have set of midmounts that look inviting, could modify them for my purpose. I will get 2 sets of the cushions and the midmount. What do you guys think?
 

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Did some work tonight after movie, measured for the dipstick and marked it and also had to cut it off due to it being too long.
First is the two marks that are for oil levels and then picture of the dipstick after I cut it off.


I ordered the pulleys for my engine today also, I recently bought a set of matching midmount brackets for the alternator and power steering pump.
 

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Looks like those mid mounts should work, how thick is the material?

Have you had the rotating assembly balanced yet?

 

Damn those look good!

Just one thing you should consider before installing them ..... they would look even
better on my car. Should I come and get them, what time will you be there today?

 
Indycars said:

Damn those look good!

Just one thing you should consider before installing them ..... they would look even
better on my car. Should I come and get them, what time will you be there today?

hahahahaha! one problem, you got short pump, these are for long pump! bahahahahahahaha!
 
this is the carb I am thinking bout buying:

The rebuilder is reputable and its back to factory specs.
 

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How much is he charging for that carb? Did you get the list number so
you can tell what it came off of?

I see one vacuum line, is it manifold vacuum or ported vacuum and
what do you need for your car?

 
Indycars said:

How much is he charging for that carb? Did you get the list number so
you can tell what it came off of?

I see one vacuum line, is it manifold vacuum or ported vacuum and
what do you need for your car?

He is asking 250, its a 3310(4150) series holley, with vac sec, it has ported,full manifold, large for pcv valve. Its aftermarket, I know it came off a 383 in the nova club. He sugar/bead blasted the casting before rebuilding it.
 
I will need the full vac for the tranny, brake booster, and the large one for pcv valve. I will prolly look into putting site glasses in for the bowl adjustment.
 

Aftermarket ..... Ok I see. That will save you $250-$300, nothing to sneeze at!

I didn't want the oily vapor from the PCV valve going thru the carburetor, so I ran it straight
to the intake manifold.




I already had a tapped port, so it was easy on my manifold.



 

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Indycars said:

Aftermarket ..... Ok I see. That will save you $250-$300, nothing to sneeze at!

I didn't want the oily vapor from the PCV valve going thru the carburetor, so I ran it straight
to the intake manifold.




I already had a tapped port, so it was easy on my manifold.



I have the same manifold, but I have a break booster to hook up, I may run the booster to the carb and run the pcv off the manifold like you did.
 
get the rotating assembly checked for journal surface finish and concentric or true round, and if required, have it Re-balanced, or polished if required,and have the guys at the machine shop measure and order the correct clevite (H) series main and rod bearings
 
grumpyvette said:
get the rotating assembly checked for journal surface finish and concentric or true round, and if required, have it Re-balanced, or polished if required,and have the guys at the machine shop measure and order the correct clevite (H) series main and rod bearings
I asked them to check all that, I sent the main bearings and rod bearings with it. Along with a set of rings, wrist pin clips, balancer, flexplate, Jimmy said the balancing will cost between 200 - 275 depending if they have to add mallory metal to balance the crank.
 
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