Quality engine parts don't come in plain white boxes!

[Loves302Chevy]

I had a friend with a video camera come by today and we did the 334 ver. 3.0 break-in.
So far.......... SUCCESS. The pushrods rotated and all of the rockers had a more than adequate
supply of oil. No strange noises either. I ran it at between 2500 and 3000 rpm for 20
minutes and then kept backing it down in steps towards idle for the next 20 minutes. Then
I played with it for another 5 minutes.
Tomorrow, I think I will remove the valve covers and inspect the magnets in the heads for any
signs of abnormal wear and then run it again to heat the oil up, and then drain and strain it and
inspect the magnetic drain plug. I did check the dipstick and the oil looks good.
At ~850 rpm idle, 16" vacuum, 38# oil pressure (hot), 12 deg BTDC initial, and 32 deg at 3000 rpm.

Next is to do the tip conditioning to the ends of the running valve springs. The camshaft was broken
in with stock (lower pressure) springs to give it the best chance for survival. I also left the valve seals
out for break-in. After I swap the springs, I can change the rev limiter pill in the MSD to something like
6400 and see what the engine is really like. The rpms are limited to 3400 rpm while using the break-in
springs.

You were right Brian - ISKY lifters are good.

Rick, the videos are being transferred to a thumb drive. How do you want me to send them to you for
your excellent editing skills?

 

[87vette81big]

Isky Lifters are used by all the Top Drag Racers Loves 302.
Regardless of Brand of camshaft used.

I am sure Rick can post your Video.

I made my own You Tube account to pist videos .

 

[Loves302Chevy]

Today I did some inspecting. I removed both valve covers and checked the magnets. All had
the slightest bit of "black baby powder dust" on them. If you rub it between your fingers, it
feels like the cam lube that you coat the lobes and lifter bases with. It is soft - not abrasive at all.
I cleaned them all off and relocated the 4 I had between each pair of pushrods to between each
pair of valve springs at the lower sides of the heads. I'm glad I did not JB Weld them. Before, with
hardly any oil flowing out of the pushrods, most of the oil flowed back into the engine near the upper
head bolts. Now that I have the proper amount of oil flowing to the rockers, the oil pools at the
bottom, so it makes more sense to have the magnets there.
I used my top cut-out valve cover and ran the engine for less than 5 minutes to make sure that the
rockers were getting oil at idle - unlike last time with those JUNK Delphi lifters. Then I repeated
for the other side. Last time, #2 EX was the last to see oil at only above 1400 rpm. No problems
now using these ISKYs.
I replaced the stock valve covers and ran the engine for about 10 minutes to warm the oil. Then I
drained and strained it through a super fine paint strainer with the 57# pull NEO ring magnet that
I stick to the end of the oil filter, inside the strainer. The oil is now darker. I captured NOTHING.
The last photo is what my magnetic drain plug looked like last time, for comparison.

Brian, that camshaft seems to be the perfect choice. On the test stand, 850 rpm idle, 16" vac, and
just the right amount of lope. And it sounds GREAT.

 

[87vette81big]

Looks Good Loves 302.

The Clear Glass Fuel Filter seems practical and nice till they crack.
Gasoline Fire Hazard .
Been there. Just Saying.

Ultra High Quality Racing Fuel Filters the Best of Course.
Yes they cost $.
Mallory Comp 140 fuel filters my preference .
Mallory EFI Fuel filter can be used with Carbs too.

Isky Cams are Nice.
Thet have Street Friendly cam profiles like your 264 Mega.

The Full Race Drag Profiles are Hellcat Killers.
Starting line to 1320 Finish Line.
Rumpty Rump Rump....8,000 Rpm instant on the Tachometer.
Need Best Bottom end parts & Valvetrain.
Titanium Valves. I have. My 70-1/2 TA.
Race Gas only.

 

[Loves302Chevy]

That filter is just for use on the test stand so that I can see if fuel is there.
You want everything correct at first start -instant fire.

What does race gas cost today? I remember $5.00/gal for Blue 108 octane
and $6.00/gal for the Purple 118. I can't remember the brand.

 

[87vette81big]

Its still expensive 110 -114 Leaded Race gas. I look at Motor octane test numbers.
Its experimentation to find the best octane in a race engine.
110 has worked for me.
$8.00 -10 per gallon.

The Supercharged guys or Turbo guys with 28-51 pounds Boost use VP Brand C16 or C18 Leaded Race gas.
118-120 motor octane. $15-20 per gallon.
Many are using E85 or Methanol now.
All have Pros & cons.

 

[87vette81big]

When Race Season starts in Joliet Chicago....The 5.0 guys All Want C16 Fuel....Liquid Gold....8.0-6.0 second ET'S.

 

[Loves302Chevy]

I wish I had E85 around me - Connecticut.
I have a 350 SBC with 12.8 compression that would love it.
The engine can sit and collect dust for another 25 years before I spend that on race gas.

 

[87vette81big]

TURBO BLUE Racing Gasoline.
I paid $2.99 per gallon 1990 - 2005.
It was Decent Race Gas.
Sunoco 110-112 Iliked.

A High Compression Race Engine is just that. Drag Race and Win.

I have been on these Forums for a Long Time now. Since 2007.
Every single Pump Gas engine stuck into a Corvette Struggles to Run ET & MPH As claimed.
When the Hellcats came
out 1-1/2 years ago 99.999999 % of the Online Heros were shut down. Hellcats Won.
Even LS & X Builds Lost.

 

[Indycars]

Rick, the videos are being transferred to a thumb drive. How do you want me to send them to you for
your excellent editing skills?

Most likely they are too big for email, how big(file size)/long are they? What
type of file are they mp4 or mov?

But you can try and see if they will go email. Also I think you would want your
own YouTube account, you don't want it under mine where you can't get to it
as easily.

You could upload them directly YouTube, and edit them there. If it asks you
about the video being shakey, let YouTube edit/process them to remove the
shake. It does and excellent job of stabilization of the video. I process almost
everyone of mine for stabilization.

You will also have to "PUBLISH" your video before the public and watch them,
don't worry it will ask you if you want to, plus there is a button for that.

 

[Loves302Chevy]

Most likely they are too big for email, how big(file size)/long are they? What
type of file are they mp4 or mov?

Thanks Rick. I'll try the YouTube thing. My friend's wife transferred the files to a thumb drive,
but when I looked today, there was nothing there. She said she will try again. I hope they are not lost.
So I don't even know what type or their size yet. Most likely they will have to be broken into smaller files.

 

[Loves302Chevy]

A High Compression Race Engine is just that. Drag Race and Win.
Every single Pump Gas engine stuck into a Corvette Struggles to Run ET & MPH As claimed.

Yes Brian, but you can't drive your high compression race gas fueled race car
back & forth to work and the grocery store.

Please post a picture of your T/A. And your avatar is too small.

 

[Loves302Chevy]

Opinions needed.
So I'm about half done with tip conditioning the ends of the valve springs. After I finish,
I will clean them in the parts washer and then heat them in the oven to 220 degrees (as
Grumpy suggested) and then cool them in my break-in oil.
Should I continue to run the engine while the lower pressure springs are still
installed? I want to give the cam lobes and lifters the best chance for survival. The pushrods
are new also. A 20 minute break in is all that is required, and I have a total 60 minutes run
time so far. The rpm is limited to 3400. I'm thinking that it can't hurt, but I don't want to
do any damage.
Not my spring, but this is what I'm talking about.

 

[87vette81big]

Install The Isky Valvesprings.
Install the 334 ci SBC Into your 1984 T/A
Tune the Engine.
Drive it.

 

[Grumpy]

by now the cam & lifter mating surfaces are as lapped in as good as they get!
installing the full load springs will only speed up what ever is are ready going on, IF ANYTHING

 

[Loves302Chevy]

Thanks. Hopefully NOTHING is going on except normal wearing in.

 

[Loves302Chevy]

I finished tip conditioning the valve springs and got them installed. I had the choice whether to
re-use the stamped KMotion locks from the first time when the retainers were hitting the valve
seals (they looked 100% fine and I used them with the break-in setup), or use the new set of Crane
Cams Machined locks I had hanging on the pegboard. The lock grooves on the previous set of
valves were hammered, so to be safe I went with the Crane Machined locks. All springs ended up
within .005" of 1.800" installed height. I'm using Alex's extra clearance retainer-to-seal 4140
chrome moly steel retainers, and they only weigh 16 grams. At max valve lift (.480"), I have .270"
clearance retainer-to-seal and .170" clearance to coil bind - so I'm, without a doubt, SAFE this time
around. I set the rockers for 1/4 turn past lash removed.

I ran the engine for about 45 minutes today. Set the rev limiter to about 6400 rpm. I think the ISKY
264 Mega camshaft is going to be perfect. The engine idles at about 850 rpm with 16" vacuum.
35# oil pressure (hot), 12 deg BTDC initial, and 34 deg max. It is very responsive and when you rev it
up, you don't have to try to "catch it" and keep it from stalling as it returns to idle. Of course this is on
the engine test stand with only the SFI flexplate attached to the back of the crankshaft. With the inertia
of the torque converter helping to keep the engine rotating when installed in the car, it should not be a
P.I.T.A. at every stop light. I learned many years ago that about 220 degrees intake duration at .050"
is the point at which the vehicle becomes less fun to drive.

 

[Grumpy]

looking forward to hearing about the install and test drive?

 

[Loves302Chevy]

That might be a year off. With all I have to do outside on the hill and around the house, and
expanding the driveway now that the slabs for the larger garage are poured, and running a
drain pipe down to the road, I will not have much time to get the car ready. First I have to
take the bed off my truck so I can sandblast what's left of the frame, and repair the cross-
members, replace the fuel tank, and coat the frame with POR 15 and undercoat.
In between all of that, I will start fitting the brackets and accessories to the engine, and I
hope to remove all the unneeded CCC wiring from the car so I can get it to the body shop.
I would have been further along, until I lost 3 months due to the failed camshaft from those
junk China Delphi lifters.
It's going to be a busy summer.

 

[87vette81big]

If your 334 SBC Is going to sit be sure to cover it up well Mike.
Triple Bag it.
Mice like to build homes inside of engines sometimes.
Those little Fickers will Piss & Shit inside of your engine.
Think ahead.
Fill cylinders with 10w30 oil also.