TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

mathd said:
Am also using taylor plug wires for my engine, working flawlessly so far.
I did slide the wire into the boot before to crimp, i used the di-electric grease that was provided with the wire set.

I got some of that dielectric grease on my hands and couldn't hang on to damn thing after that! :D :p

 

Even brand new valve covers can't be just bolted on. I had to remove the sharp edges first,
and on these two piece valve covers there are a lot of edges.

VCSharpEdges01_2460.jpg

VCMetalRemoved_2999.jpg

VCSmoothEdges01_3050.jpg

Then I cleaned them up and polished.

VCShineAndWax_3038.jpg

Using 1/4" bolts to hold the gasket would be too loose and allow the gasket to move around
too much. So I cut 8 pieces of 5/16 All Thread and placed them in the drill press. Spin them
up and use a file to reduce the OD to .280" which gives me a slip fit and holds the gasket in
perfect alignment with the valve cover.


VCGuides01_3042.jpg
VCGasketAlignment01_3044.jpg

Next I used Scotch Brite on the bottom surface to clean the oxidation from the aluminum.
Applied RTV Black and put the alignment pins in to hold the gasket in place. Then I put some
lead weights on top, then let it set overnight.

VCLowerGasketDrying_3036.jpg

I figured that the top gasket needed some help to make sure they stay in place when I remove
the top half for inspection. I put a dab of RTV in several places and screwed the two halves
together with the 6 bolts....let set overnight again. To replace these gaskets cost $24, so I need
to take care of them.

VCTopGasket01_3049.jpg

Very important was to use some thread locker on the baffle. I saw pictures of one baffle that
came loose and was beaten up pretty good by the rockers. The rockers didn't look so good either.

VCBaffle01_3054.jpg

 
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Bought some stainless steel fasteners and few grade 8s today at the small family hardware
store. They have about the best SS selection unless you go to one of big name fastener supplies
here.

Cost for what you see below is $43.74.......what ever you do, don't get hooked on SS fasteners.

Bolts_SS&Grade8_3062.jpg

They are to be used for covering holes that are not used or to hold plug wire looms or pulley to
the balancer. These are high tensile strength bolts.

 
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Indycars said:

.....

Cost for what you see below is $43.74.......what ever you do, don't get hooked on SS fasteners.
...


keep in mind most stainless bolts are grade 2 or at best grade 3 in strength, if you need grade 8 fasteners you generally won,t find them in stainless steel
THOSE VALVE COVERS ARE REALLY NEAT , WHERE DID YOU ORDER THEM FROM, WHATS THE PART NUMBER?


RELATED INFO
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4868&p=13372&hilit=grade+bolts#p13372

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=3557&p=20837&hilit=grade+bolts#p20837
 

I've found it very hard to find higher tensile strength bolts. TOTALLY STAINLESS sells higher quality stronger stainless bolts.

http://www.totallystainless.com/


As a leader in the world of car restoration, we know and have exactly what you are looking for. We offer the best selection of U.S. and Metric automotive stainless steel nuts, bolts, screws, and washers anywhere. We stock high strength fasteners from ARP. We also have exclusive O.E.M. style fasteners that we have reproduced in stainless steel. We offer our own high strength product line.

Not only can you purchase parts by the piece, but we also offer the convenience of purchasing one of our fully developed kits:

Exterior engine bolt kits, available for most U.S. V-8's and many 6-cylinder engines.

Bumper to bumper body bolt kits, available in a wide range of makes and models of vehicles from classic cars and trucks, to muscle cars, late model trucks, Jeeps, Corvettes, and VWs.

High Strength suspension kits to complement the drivetrain and body kits.

Total-Loc® stainless steel locking header bolt kits.

Door striker kits made from 17-4PH hardened stainless steel.

Totally Stainless also offers fittings, pipe plugs, brake/fuel line/hose clamps, tubing, rod, exhaust clamps/hangers, and many more stainless steel accessories to help finish off your restoration projects.

To purchase parts not available online (coming soon!), for questions, and technical information contact us:

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Don't get too attached to stainless fasteners, the higher strength stainless will crystalize easier than regular grade 8 and then they will snap. Leaving you with a a broken stud most times in a place that is hard to remove. Few years back we had a unit at work that was total stainless, customer specifications. All the fasteners were high tensile strenghth from "Totally Stainless" and we had several of the bolt do just, crystalize before torque was reached and then snapped.
 
We bought from them due to them being only domestic company that produced the higher strength stainless bolts in smaller sizes. All I am saying is be careful when using them, tap and clean the threads before you thread them in, most important don't use thread locker when your going into aluminum bosses.
 
busterrm said:
Don't get too attached to stainless fasteners, the higher strength stainless will crystallize easier than regular grade 8 and then they will snap. Leaving you with a a broken stud most times in a place that is hard to remove. Few years back we had a unit at work that was total stainless, customer specifications. All the fasteners were high tensile strength from "Totally Stainless" and we had several of the bolt do just, crystallize before torque was reached and then snapped.

We bought from them due to them being only domestic company that produced the higher strength stainless bolts in smaller sizes. All I am saying is be careful when using them, tap and clean the threads before you thread them in, most important don't use thread locker when your going into aluminum bosses.

All the bolts except for the big 3/4" bolts, are for filling unused holes in the engine for
cosmetic reasons. They are not to hold anything and don't need to be tightened anymore
than just snug. The big bolts don't thread into anything other than SS nuts, so if it breaks
before final torque then it's not a problem to remove. I will be using anti-seize compound
on all the threads.

There is just one exception to the statement above for the pulley that attaches to the
harmonic balancer. I will post some pics when I get it done.

Do you have links or more info on the crystallize process you mention???

 
I have no info to back my statement in writing, just my experience in working with regular steel and stainless materials. Metallurgists have warned our industries, mostly engineers that work for steel companies, to not use the hardest stainless fasteners due to the work hardening of stainless steels. Regular carbon steel has the tendency to be softer but it will harden when worked, stainless does that same thing but its already very hard, also being dense already it has the tendency to get harder but the chromium will crystallize and break in the process. That's where the harder stainless fasteners give problems, they are higher in content of chromium. We use a stainless compound called "Hastalloy G 276", we have use a high pressure water system to cut it, so the heat won't cause the chromium to crystallize and the welding with it is a total nightmare. It has to be welded, then cooled, welded, cooled, etc........
Most of the time when stainless as a fastener, most of the engine builders in our nova club use studs instead
 
As long as you're careful and use anti sieze you should be okay. I only use stainless when its going into the cast iron bosses or regular steel, but I never use in aluminum bosses. IMO there is just too much at risk.
 

I purchased the 750 CFM Speed Demon carburetor (1402010VE) for $419.99 + $13.99 handling
yesterday and got $40 Demon air cleaner for free. The story goes like this......

I called Summit to see if they would do something similar to Jegs with the free Demon
air cleaner when you purchased a Demon Carb, but no cigar. Several weeks later I found
the Speed Demon on Amazon for $419.99, that's the first time I've seen any other price
than $457 at any major speed parts supplier. Yesterday I found the link to Jegs Price
Match Guarantee. See the last pics below to see how it works.

I figured that if it worked, Jegs would would not include the free $40 air cleaner. I was
pleasantly surprised to see that I was wrong, and when I placed the URL and price into
the Jegs form, it was immediate with the price reduction.

Funny thing is when I checked Jegs for info to write this post, the Free Demon Air Cleaner
is no longer being offered.

SpeedDemon750VacElecChoke.jpg

JegsSpeedDemonPrice.jpg
DemonAirCleaner01.jpg
JegsPriceMatch03.JPG

 
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Still in the thinking stage on what carb Tommy and I are going to use on his 383, I am leaing towards a Demon because I think they are a cool looking carb.
 
busterrm said:
Still in the thinking stage on what carb Tommy and I are going to use on his 383, I am leaning towards a Demon because I think they are a cool looking carb.

they also have the ability to be tuned to match the intended air/fuel ratio ,over a slightly wider range of conditions than a standard HOLLEY carburetor in my experience.
keep in mind a great deal of how well a carb will run has to do with how consistently the fuel system supplies fuel and which components like jets or power valves or vacuum secondary springs are used.
related info

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=585&p=24111&hilit=demon#p24111

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=6157&p=19137&hilit=demon#p19137

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=585&p=758&hilit=demon#p758

viewtopic.php?f=45&t=396&p=29211#p29211

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1790

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=8126

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5510

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5229

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1639

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=635

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1115&p=2312#p2312
 

The Speed Demon carburetor came in yesterday and today I got a chance to
check it out.

The first thing I noticed was the texture of the base plate and metering
blocks, they are suppose to be Billet. I'm sure they are, but they just don't
look like what I had pictured. It also had small amounts of gasoline inside
the carb and in the bag it came in, I hope this means they REALLY DID
wet flow test it before sending it out.

I went all over the carb checking the tightenes of all the fastners, everything
seemed to be in order.

DemonFeatures01.jpg
Overview01_3582.jpg
Overview02_3583.jpg
Overview03_3578.jpg
Overview04_3579.jpg

Sometimes I wish I was a BIG MAGAZINE WRITER so I could hand pick the
components I received.

Overview05_3580.jpg

Primary Side

PrimaryRemoval_3588.jpg
PrimaryOverview01_3589.jpg
PrimaryOverview02_3592.jpg

Secondary Side

SecondaryOverview01_3566.jpg
SecondaryFloatBowl_3577.jpg
SecondaryFuelInlet_3572.jpg

The base plate was NOT completely aligned with carb body. I loosened the
screws and used a plastic hammer to move it to the one side as far as it
would go. Then I re-tightened screws. Then I used a Exacto knife to trim
the excess gasket from the venturis.

VenturiBeforeGasketRemoval_3603.jpg
VenturiAfterGasketRemoval_3628.jpg

I thought the leading edge of the main jets would have a small chamfer, but
if looks like they just drilled them and left it at that.

PrimaryJet#76_3598.jpg

I'm happy with what I see so far, even thou there were a few details that
were not absolutely correct. But then I wouldn't be able to afford if it was! :p

 
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youve got darn impressive photo skills , thats for sure!

and yes beveling the edge on the jet orifice helps flow consistency
 

Exactly what I was thinking! It's going to increase the flow somewhat, but it's
the consistence that you need. When you change jets, you need to know that
the change will be the same from set to another.......but that brings something
else to mind.

The flow is effected by the area of the hole and that increases with the SQUARE
of the radius. The change in flow from one jet to another is going to increase
as the jets get larger. For example....if you take the flow of a 78 jet - flow of
a 76 jet you might get 10 unit difference in flow. Now do the same thing for
86 - 84 and that difference might be 12 units. It's kinda like compounding
interest on you money.

Maybe it's so small of a change that it's down at the noise level and can
be disregarded.

 
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