TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

I picked up the 1957 Olds 9.3 Rear this morning Rick I wanted.
The One from a Friends 5.0 Stang Mustang Racecar back in 1990's when I was young.
Also brought home my 427 Big Block Chevy.
Mopar Bob & Me lifted out his basement. Took the Heads off
To our amazement its a Brand New 427 Tall Deck shortblock.
Rebuilt .030" over.
Used heads bolted on with Fel pro gaskets.
Never fired.
No Rust inside.
Get pictures up later.
Manhandled & lifted lots of iron weight today both of us.

427 Put away since 1999.
 
It sounds Like you got a really great score there ! congrats!
(, I'm glad they went to some one who appreciates the value in those components, rather than getting thrown out by some clueless widow or ex wife after the owner died.
and I'm looking forward to clear pictures, posted, of all the goodies you scored )
but be careful muscling the engine blocks and cylinder heads around,use some lift equipment if its required or take it totally apart and get a couple friends, I know I did it countless times, in the past, when I was younger, and my lower back vertebra are paying for it now, and the first hernia I ever got was the result of trying too lift my total invalid mother-in-law up into a wheel chair off the floor where she just decided to sit, and she is absolutely zero help in getting her to stand or move and totally clueless

SHORT STORY
for several years, back in the late 1970s, I went by a house in my neighborhood, that had what looked like a 1967 pontiac lemans under several tarps in the back yard,you could barely see it from the street. I stopped several times to inquire if it might be for sale but the old lady answering the door, each time was not very helpful or friendly and said it was her sons and she would have him call me if he was interested (ID left several notes) one day the car was gone, I stopped and asked about it, she said she got tired of mowing around it and "GAVE IT" to the local salvage yard for scrap, I really wanted to strangle the stupid old bitch at that point! but just left and started calling salvage yards, I never found which one got it or if it was a lemans or GTO, I suspect the guy picking it up made big bucks dropping it off to a buddy, long before it reached a salvage yard
 
I don't know as much about Big Block Chevy Engines as You Grumpy.
But the 427 Tall Deck does not have typical Date Coding.
It has date coding like my 1965 Olds 425 A engine.
& AMC 390-401.

ALL BIG BLOCK CHEVIES WERE MADE IN ST. CATHERINES.
Near Niagra Falls New York.

#478477 Main casting .
CFD.
293 .....293RD Day made out of 365 Calander year.
Get pics up this evening Grumpy.

7.0 casted on side if both outside cylinder walls.

Hurt before. What Bone crackers do.
Crack thw spine & hips back.
 
I tried to get info from Wix by calling them, but they didn't have the filtration
efficiency/micron numbers for their racing filters. It obvious that they would
have to give up something to get better flow, but I wanted to know how much
I had to give. I went ahead and bought one their racing filters for about twice
the price of a standard filter, it cost $30 for a 14" OD x x 12.25" ID x 4.01" H
that flows 1000 CFM. If you look at the number of pleats, then the racing filter
has less filter media, the OD - ID of the filter is pretty close.

O'Reilly's has as nearly identical filter size, but in the street version. I don't know
where they get their flow numbers from, but their website says 345 CFM. Who
knows at what pressure drop across the filter the two different filters are rated.

It looks like I better save it for those times when I want the very best performance,
because it don't look like it would be very good for every day use when you examine
the photos below. I took two photos with each one on top to compare the lighting,
just in case it was different.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... word=42096
http://www.wixfilters.com/Speciality/Racing.aspx

WixRacingFilterComparison_5437_5438.jpg
WixRacingFilterTable.jpg
 
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i dont know if you have considered the K&N X-Stream setup rick... basically gives you alot more surface area of filter by replacing the lid with another part of the filter...

http://www.knfilters.com/universal/x-stream.htm

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-66-3040




vizard says the best paper filters are good about 5.5hp per sq in of filter whereas a K&N is typically good for 7HP making a practically zero loss filter totally possible even in a small stock hooded space.
 

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also no question on wether or not the k&n can actually filter stuf out of the air... them suckers catch everything
 
WixRacingFilterComparison_5437_5438.jpg

thanks for posting this
(GREAT PICTURE QUALITY AS USUAL)

this may sound a bit (REDKNECK) but you would certainly not be the first guy to install a longer thread rod on the carb and use TWO of the 14" diam air filters that cost $15 each rather than one $30- air filter, with some silicone sealer gluing them stacked together to provide excellent low restriction air flow rates, on a T-bucket where hood clearance is not usually a huge issue.
effectively doubling the surface area of the filters and improving the air flow carb inlet entrance angle,test Ive seen doing that show zero difference or restriction compared to use of no air filter at all, the two stacked air filter elements also provide some benefits especially with room for an air flow bell or velocity stack inside the now taller air filter, now that theres room to conceal it inside the twin stacked filters,and allow air flow around it, and let the internal velocity stack smooth air flow into the carb, at times this has shown gains on the dyno of a couple hp, virtually for free

velstack.jpg


91011024_L.jpg

you could use one of these as the upper filter and one of those wix as the lower filter if you stack two
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/aFe-Power ... 34170.html

http://dragpartsusa.com/i-13421636-mr-g ... 7Aod4kAALQ

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=8961&p=31945&hilit=duct+hood+cool#p31945
 
David Vizzard has found over 30HP more at WOT With just air filter design induction changes.
Air buffeting turbulance actually impedes all air cleaner airflow.
K&N filters tend to straighten out wild eddy air
flow currents.
Not all Ram Air Designs good also.
 
philly said:
also no question on whether or not the k&n can actually filter stuff
out of the air... them suckers catch everything
Click to expand...

Phil, have you seen any test on the K&N filter? I have seen just the opposite opinion
of the K&N by some respected people, but I've never really looked at one myself. So
I'm still on the fence about this type of filter.

 
grumpyvette said:
this may sound a bit (REDKNECK) but you would certainly not be the first guy to install a longer thread rod on the carb and use TWO of the 14" diam air filters that cost $15 each rather than one $30- air filter, with some silicone sealer gluing them stacked together to provide excellent low restriction air flow rates, on a T-bucket where hood clearance is not usually a huge issue.
Click to expand...

I think I did that back when I was a teenager, but I had forgotten about that possibility.

 
I use K&N Air filters on the Corvette & T/A Rick.
No airflow tests for You.
But both made a nice noticable Butt Dyno Feel difference.
Especially on TA because its big cubes at 462 ci & wound high rpm.
Paper filters may flow close to K& N but clog fast with dirt killing airflow.
K&N Loves Dirt. Actually filters better with light dust & dirt on filter media.
Reusable undefinate. Wash clean in soap & water. Re oil with special K&N Charger filter red oil.
I don't believe in copy cat china crap.
K&N best.
Wix then.
Napa Gold Air filter.
 
As part of the Small Town Weekend, there was suppose to be a drag race, but it
got rained out. It was rescheduled for tomorrow morning.... Saturday.

I've made two changes from my original setup. The timing curve showed that I had
full advance at 2600 RPM, so I went in and changed the lighter of the two springs
in the distributor to the one slightly heavier. Now both are identical light blue springs.

I plotted the timing curve again. You will notice that the new (Red) curve is much
smoother, that's because the first time I increased the RPM by hand. This last time
I used the idle screw. Now that's using my head finally! :D

Ignition-Timing-Curve_2014-05-30.jpg

I purchased a set of vacuum secondary springs and accelerator pump cams. I measured
all the springs to see how the wire size was changing. The wire size is not the only
variable to when the secondaries open, the number of coils also has an effect. The
spring in the Demon carb originally was 0.029 inches, but looked exactly like the
SHORTER .030 inch spring in the photo, both in color and number of coils.

So my second change was going to the White .028 inch spring. I would have thought
the spring installed by Demon would have been the "Plain (std. spring)".

FP01_VacSecSprings_5418.jpg
DemonSecVacSprings.JPG

I had a hard time getting the red cover back in, it always wanted to cross thread on
my. So I removed the housing to get a better look. It was me and the optical illusion
produced by the top half of the housing be slanted, but the threads were perpendicular
to the carb base. Once I understood what was happening I didn't have anymore
problems installing the red cover.

I remembered from 15-20 years ago that the vacuum housing had an o-ring for the
vacuum passage. I looked around, but could never find the one that fell out or was
never installed maybe. Luckily I had one in my inventory that would work, so it only
slowed me down slightly.

FP01_VacSecORing_5421.jpg

I bought a new set of Champion spark plugs (RN12YC) that I will install just before the
race tomorrow. The plugs in there now are from the initial startup and are black, so
pretty much useless for tuning. I hope to get some good photos of the plugs.
.
 
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Don't forget to Blip the Gas pedal rapid once in a while Rick.
An engine tuned right is actually a good spark plug cleaner.
Rapid rise in RPM Cleans plugs nice.
Not Just showing off & shaking the ground with exhaust concussions.
I recall the Crower Roller has about 52-54 degrees cam overlap in T-bucket so spark plug loading with raw fuel shouldn't be a real issue while Staging to Race.
 
Hey Indy, hows your Demon off idle performance? I had a heck of a time getting my Demon off idle fuel curve right. It had a rich to lean curve just as I came off idle that you could feel. I also had to work on my emulsion holes for the primaries to flatten that fuel curve out as well. Just curious what your experience has been so far. How may turns out do you have your idle screws set at?
 
grumpyvette said:
darn I wish I could get there to help you tune that cars engine!
Click to expand...

Darn, I sure could use your help!!! :p

Being a perfectionist don't help much when you don't know what the hell
you are doing! :D

 
bytor said:
Hey Indy, hows your Demon off idle performance? I had a heck of a time getting my Demon off idle fuel curve right. It had a rich to lean curve just as I came off idle that you could feel. I also had to work on my emulsion holes for the primaries to flatten that fuel curve out as well. Just curious what your experience has been so far. How may turns out do you have your idle screws set at?
Click to expand...

You know Bytor, your description feels really close to WHAT I THINK I'm experiencing.
Things are starting to slow down now that I'm getting use to the car, but things are
still happens pretty quick for me to make a educated guess. Some of the spark plugs
are slightly wet. It don't wrap quick enoough while in neutral, seems it should have
more snap when I crack the throttle.

Yesterday I adjusted the A/F idle screws from 1 turn out to 3/4 and thought I had a
slightly better RPM/Vacuum readings. When I tested with a WOT run thru 2nd gear,
it didn't seem to do as well in the first 100 feet. I'm going to go back to 1 turn out
from lightly seated position for now.

 
Indycars said:
bytor said:
Hey Indy, hows your Demon off idle performance? I had a heck of a time getting my Demon off idle fuel curve right. It had a rich to lean curve just as I came off idle that you could feel. I also had to work on my emulsion holes for the primaries to flatten that fuel curve out as well. Just curious what your experience has been so far. How may turns out do you have your idle screws set at?
Click to expand...

You know Bytor, your description feels really close to WHAT I THINK I'm experiencing.
Things are starting to slow down now that I'm getting use to the car, but things are
still happens pretty quick for me to make a educated guess. Some of the spark plugs
are slightly wet. It don't wrap quick enoough while in neutral, seems it should have
more snap when I crack the throttle.

Yesterday I adjusted the A/F idle screws from 1 turn out to 3/4 and thought I had a
slightly better RPM/Vacuum readings. When I tested with a WOT run thru 2nd gear,
it didn't seem to do as well in the first 100 feet. I'm going to go back to 1 turn out
from lightly seated position for now.
Click to expand...

I find my holley give better performance with a slighly richer idle that the rpm/vacuum tell me. On the Af ratio its about 13-13.5:1 idle
 
The Emulsion circuits in the Primary side of the Carb may be slight on the Rich side for the T-bucket Rick.
Wait yet before you drill the air bleeds to lean.
It affects the entire fuel curve & difficult to go back.
Race Holleys have adjustable air bleeds.

I would try giving another 1-2 degrees intial advance.
Road test.
Some engines more tolerant of lots of intial advance.
You know when you have too much.
Engine kicking back against starter on startup.
Engine run On after ignition shutoff.
Preignition & Detonation of course.
In theory add 2 more degrees intial, Remove 2 degrees from centrifugal advance.
Its a fine line on todays pump gas.
Make 1 change at a time & retest.
Only make multiple changes if you know what works exact as a total combination by prior experience .
 
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