Planning a new 383 build that is now going to be a 400
- Thread starter busterrm
- Start date
the pictures and sub-links in that link should be most helpful
once you install the windage screen, that oil pan should be much more efficient at maintaining oil in the sump, and reduce the oil over loads on the oil rings
read thru these threads
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64&p=77#p77
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
once you install the windage screen, that oil pan should be much more efficient at maintaining oil in the sump, and reduce the oil over loads on the oil rings
read thru these threads
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64&p=77#p77
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
if properly clearanced, to the rotating Assembly arc, and welded into place, in the oil pan most sizes of perforated sheet can be used for shrapnel screens or fabricating a windage screen,most sizes, with at least 40% open area should work ok,Ive used very similar looking perforated metal sheet in the past with good results,
but look at this chart, I circled the type I used in green notice the percentage of open area vs closed sheet changes a great deal with the pattern and hole sizes selected , for a windage screen or a shrapnel , or windage screen I generally want holes covering at least 45%-50% coverage and at least 1/4"-3/16" in diam. in a windage screen perforated sheet, that in no way means the smaller hole size won,t work here.
while I generally use stainless 6 or 8 mesh for shrapnel screens theres lots of options that will work just fine, just remember to keep the oil changed regularly or theres some potential for sludge to clog ANY size shrapnel screens
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 6T0350W36T
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 8S0280W36T
read thru these threads
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64&p=77#p77
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
but look at this chart, I circled the type I used in green notice the percentage of open area vs closed sheet changes a great deal with the pattern and hole sizes selected , for a windage screen or a shrapnel , or windage screen I generally want holes covering at least 45%-50% coverage and at least 1/4"-3/16" in diam. in a windage screen perforated sheet, that in no way means the smaller hole size won,t work here.
while I generally use stainless 6 or 8 mesh for shrapnel screens theres lots of options that will work just fine, just remember to keep the oil changed regularly or theres some potential for sludge to clog ANY size shrapnel screens
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 6T0350W36T
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 8S0280W36T
read thru these threads
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64&p=77#p77
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
Hey Grumpy which is the higher arc the ends of the rods or the counterweights on the crank? I read through the links and have figured out that fabricating the windage screen is really not that difficult, so I plan on doing all of it myself accept getting it welded to the pan, I am thinking of making some rails in the pan and just bolting the screen to it.
busterrm said:
it varies between cranks and rods youll need to verify it , Id say in most cases its almost a tie
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
My new pan will be here any day now and I am going to set up the oil pump screen and start calculations on the windage screen. Still in the works on the heads and intake, been real busy elsewhere. But its nice to work in my shop with the new ac keeping it cool.
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
the pattern on my perf is 1/4 hole center with 1/8 holes, so I will drill them to 5/32 to get the open area correct.grumpyvette said:if properly clearanced, to the rotating Assembly arc, and welded into place, in the oil pan most sizes of perforated sheet can be used for shrapnel screens or fabricating a windage screen,most sizes, with at least 40% open area should work ok,Ive used very similar looking perforated metal sheet in the past with good results,
but look at this chart, I circled the type I used in green notice the percentage of open area vs closed sheet changes a great deal with the pattern and hole sizes selected , for a windage screen or a shrapnel , or windage screen I generally want holes covering at least 45%-50% coverage and at least 1/4"-3/16" in diam. in a windage screen perforated sheet
while I generally use stainless 6 or 8 mesh for shrapnel screens theres lots of options that will work just fine, just remember to keep the oil changed regularly or theres some potential for sludge to clog ANY size shrapnel screens
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 6T0350W36T
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/products/T ... 8S0280W36T
read thru these threads
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64&p=77#p77
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf
the purpose, of a windage screen, is to BOTH speed the return of oil to the sump from the oil spinning off the bearings and rods/crank ETC. and to isolate the oil in the sump from the effects of the spinning crank acting as an impeller.
without a windage tray or screen the spinning crank assembly tends to beat the oil in the sump into a froth of oil and air at high rpm levels
oil will run back along the angled surface of your windage screen, too the sump and fall into the sump even with zero holes in the sheet of steel, the hundreds of 1/8" holes will of course allow a good deal of the oil flow to exit thru the holes and become isolated from the effect of the spinning crank assembly far faster, I would not be overly concerned with the hole size restricting oil flow return rates, drilling the holes should help, increase the oil flow return rates, but it won,t be hugely critical as hundreds of existing 1/8TH inch holes will still allow a significant amount of oil flow rate return, and much of the oil will still flow to the rear and fall into the sump, so hole size here is not going to be overly critical in fact the smaller holes may provide a higher degree of protection for the oil flow, once its passed thru,to the oil pan surface below, from the effects of the spinning rotating assembly (its bound to be far more efficient than the stock oil pan with no windage screen at all if its even 1/2 way well designed)
look closely at this well designed system, even oil that passes thru the windage screen still travels along the surface of the oil pan floor ,below the screen separator before it drops into the sump, the screen just allows it to be semi protected from the effects of a crank assembly spinning at thousands of rpms and thus not continually dragged endlessly around in the crank case
while it would not be my first choice, if I was buying perforated sheet steel to build a custom windage screen, I would not be the least bit concerned with using it, and If I had some in my shop, or could pick up a significant quantity at a decent price, ID have used it with out a second thought in that application
ID fabricate something similar to this picture below from that perforated sheet in a heartbeat and never worry
to fit YOUR OIL PAN
without a windage tray or screen the spinning crank assembly tends to beat the oil in the sump into a froth of oil and air at high rpm levels
oil will run back along the angled surface of your windage screen, too the sump and fall into the sump even with zero holes in the sheet of steel, the hundreds of 1/8" holes will of course allow a good deal of the oil flow to exit thru the holes and become isolated from the effect of the spinning crank assembly far faster, I would not be overly concerned with the hole size restricting oil flow return rates, drilling the holes should help, increase the oil flow return rates, but it won,t be hugely critical as hundreds of existing 1/8TH inch holes will still allow a significant amount of oil flow rate return, and much of the oil will still flow to the rear and fall into the sump, so hole size here is not going to be overly critical in fact the smaller holes may provide a higher degree of protection for the oil flow, once its passed thru,to the oil pan surface below, from the effects of the spinning rotating assembly (its bound to be far more efficient than the stock oil pan with no windage screen at all if its even 1/2 way well designed)
look closely at this well designed system, even oil that passes thru the windage screen still travels along the surface of the oil pan floor ,below the screen separator before it drops into the sump, the screen just allows it to be semi protected from the effects of a crank assembly spinning at thousands of rpms and thus not continually dragged endlessly around in the crank case
while it would not be my first choice, if I was buying perforated sheet steel to build a custom windage screen, I would not be the least bit concerned with using it, and If I had some in my shop, or could pick up a significant quantity at a decent price, ID have used it with out a second thought in that application
ID fabricate something similar to this picture below from that perforated sheet in a heartbeat and never worry
to fit YOUR OIL PAN
yes if properly fitted and clearanced it should be a noticeable improvement to your oil pans ability to control oil flow rates back into the sump, and increase durability over what the stock oil pan provides, adding that windage screen made from that material would in my opinion be a very worth while improvement I would not hesitate in the slightest in doing on my own engine
ID fabricate something similar to this picture below from that perforated sheet in a heartbeat and never worry
Id start the fabrication process by making a test fit, pattern out of POSTER BOARD card board ,get it cut and correctly clearanced and fitted then duplicated in that perforated sheet steel , be sure to carefully check ALL RELATED clearances (dip stick, rotating assembly, oil pump and pick-up) before its welded in place, with the oil pan bolted to the block, and oil pump,crank assembly etc. installed
to fit YOUR OIL PAN
ID fabricate something similar to this picture below from that perforated sheet in a heartbeat and never worry
Id start the fabrication process by making a test fit, pattern out of POSTER BOARD card board ,get it cut and correctly clearanced and fitted then duplicated in that perforated sheet steel , be sure to carefully check ALL RELATED clearances (dip stick, rotating assembly, oil pump and pick-up) before its welded in place, with the oil pan bolted to the block, and oil pump,crank assembly etc. installed
to fit YOUR OIL PAN
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
I just realized something about the Dart SHP block, the front mount hole on passenger side that goes through to the fuel pump pushrod is a blind hole. So I am going to have to drill it by hand to be able to use the roller pushrod. What is the drill size to tap that hole a little deeper? I know its a standard 3/8 boss. I may not need to tap it any deeper, just depends on the set screw that comes with the pushrod.
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
Well, my new 7 qt oil pan got here today and I have more work to do now! I have to check the pump pickup level and also going to make the windage screen. thats okay, I will spend some time in my garage and not out spending more money. I have not sent the rotating assembly in for balancing yet so I will set up and make the screen, check the pickup and set up the dipstick all in one wack. Knock down 3 birds with one stone!
Oh yeah, I am going to have to paint it also, I think it will look good in "RedFire"
Oh yeah, I am going to have to paint it also, I think it will look good in "RedFire"
Attachments
lots of clear detailed pictures of the poster board pattern than the fabricated windage screen you build and install and how you check clearances posted in this thread would be great here!
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
Hey Grumpy, I am thinking about drilling not all the holes, but am thinking of drilling about half of the holes in the windage screen to 3/16 to improve the open area. I figure the size of the screen before I actually make it will be smaller so I will drill it once I get final size figured out and a good poster board template made. I will roll the piece at work after I drill the holes. Since I am going to the trouble of making it, I want to be in the 40 -50 % open area and I have the abilities to do it, so why not.
busterrm said:
if you choose to go thru the effort be sure to remove any micro burrs that the drill in thin sheet steel is almost sure to leave, as the micro trash will eventually come loose and find its way into bearing surfaces unless your installing magnets and effective screens, a quick touch with a counter sink bit ,
oil filter pre-screens
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=120&p=28636&hilit=magnets+screens#p28636
or a dip in chemical machining acid will remove micro burrs and help prevent this
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
I got the windage screen made and it turned out pretty good I think. I had a lot of trouble getting the poster board template to cooperate in the check stage but I got it done. I am going to go through the entire process but instead of using the template I will just use the actual windage screen. I worked a long week so I am going to do the pics and show all the clearancing, dipstick location, oil pump and pickup screen clearance was done tomorrow. The new tranny cooling lines are being shipped along with my fuel pump roller pushrod, I expect them both on Monday. I am a whipped puppy tonight.
looking forward to seeing the pictures! :mrgreen: