TBucket 200-4R Transmission Project

FP04_BracketMod_4763.jpg


looks like the bracket being moved to under the carb spacer rather than over the carb spacer would also help line it up
 

I think for the carb to pull the cable at the correct rate, it must wrap around
the adapter beginning at that angle. I think that's why they say in their
instructions to put it directly under the carb.

Step#1.jpg

 
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I think I,d suggest running the engine without installing that carb spacer at least until I got the engine broken in and fairly well tuned
 

I talked with Chris at BTO and sent him 4 photos of the cable. He thought
my linkage was bent. I told him it was brand new and has never even had
gas in it yet. But that wasn't convincing enough. So I tried bending it a
little bit a few times, but could never get it right. Sometimes I was even
sure which way I should bend it.

I pulled the cable from the transmission and put the whole setup on the
bench where I could really see what was happening, below is the setup.
I used a 3/4" bolt to hold the cable tight.

FP05_BTOCableCheck_4778.jpg
FP05_BTOCableCheck_4783.jpg


I finally decided that the BTO linkage was not stable enough where it attaches
to the carb linkage. I could move it by hand and it never seemed to return to
the same position. It tries to hold itself to the cab linkage by sandwiching the
carb between layers of the BTO linkage.

I made a couple of different spacers, but none worked well enough. I finally
decided on drilling and tapping for a 6-32 screw, This screw can't be installed
without the carb off the engine, but this was definitely the way to go. I no
longer have to rely on tightening all the screw in the adapter trying to hold it
stable, they are just there to assemble the pieces.

I C-clamped the pieces together and then drilled it to 7/64", which is .003"
bigger than my tap guide called for. I tapped the carb linkage and then install
the screw from the back side thus tightening it all together.

FP05_Drill&Tap6-32_4789.jpg
FP05_Drill&Tap6-32_4790.jpg
FP05_ShortenScrewToFit_4791.jpg

The BTO bracket is rock solid now and alignment looks much better. I'm
confident it will stay that way for a long time.

FP05_FinalBTOCableAlignment_4807.jpg

 
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Nice work Rick.
I figured there was an Engineering issue.
Kept Quiet.
Unless its OEM made fabrication needed.

I think I will use AED Or Trickflow throttle cable side mount billet aluminum cable bracket on my 410sbc.
 
I,M glad you found a way to get the throttle cable issue fixed, as usual the ability to think and a bit of fabrication skill makes getting the parts working correctly easier, and your skill with a camera is nearly UN-equaled!..AMAZING!
 

I needed to wire the transmission temperature gauge, which meant I had to
install my new PML pan. The darn thing is so big compared to most
transmission pans it cost significantly more than my Milodon engine oil
pan. But it's made right here in the USA.

I had to drill and tap the pan for the temperature sender. PML does cast
the boss into the pan and you can order it already drilled and tapped for
I think $45 extra.

For now I think I'm going to cut the dip stick and make it about 6" long.
The same as my TH350, you have to go under the car to check fluid
level. Lots of fun sneaking by the side pipes while they are hot.

FP03_AluminumPanInstalled_4821.jpg
VFP03_VDO-310107.jpg


 
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Hey Rick, where is the tranny dipstick in relationship to the body of the t bucket? Just a thought, can you route it into the floor of the body and mount bolt it to the floor board, or maybe the firewall inside? Just curious, that would make it easier to check the fluid.
 
Chief, I plumbed my temp sensor in the pan as well and find it to read kinda low - I am planning on relocating the temp sensor to the line going to the radiator. I think it will more accurately reflect the oil temp inside the trans...

D.
 

I wondered the same thing Dorian. I ran it by Chris at CKP in an email.
He said to put it in the pan. But like you I wonder if reading temp on
the output line going to the radiator might be better. My thinking is you
want to see the highest temps in the transmission and that would be in
the output line.

 
The thing is... for a while I thought the temp sensor didn't even work because it was reading so low. I think it also just looks a bit better on yer dash when the gauge actually reads something...
 
busterrm said:
Hey Rick, where is the tranny dipstick in relationship to the body of the t bucket? Just a thought, can you route it into the floor of the body and mount bolt it to the floor board, or maybe the firewall inside? Just curious, that would make it easier to check the fluid.

Not sure I want a passage for hot transmission fluid to get inside the car. I never
had that much trouble getting to it before when it was under the car. Not
something that had to be check all the time.

On the other hand it would be nice to check it like a normal human.

 
DorianL said:
Chief, I plumbed my temp sensor in the pan as well and find it to read kinda low - I am planning on relocating the temp sensor to the line going to the radiator. I think it will more accurately reflect the oil temp inside the trans...

D.
I agree with that Dorian! The temp your wanting to know is the higher temp, telling you if your tranny is getting too hot. In the pan makes me think that the fluid would be cooler.
 
Indycars said:
busterrm said:
Hey Rick, where is the tranny dipstick in relationship to the body of the t bucket? Just a thought, can you route it into the floor of the body and mount bolt it to the floor board, or maybe the firewall inside? Just curious, that would make it easier to check the fluid.

Not sure I want a passage for hot transmission fluid to get inside the car. I never
had that much trouble getting to it before when it was under the car. Not
something that had to be check all the time.

On the other hand it would be nice to check it like a normal human.

Maybe route it through the floorboard and then through the firewall into the engine compartment. Just brainstorming here!
 

Before I would go to that much trouble, I would just spend $70 for the
Lokar flexible one!

 
I went Lokar flexible. I like it - just had to sand the slick nylon dipstick flat to make it easier to read.
 

For now I'm going to use the slightly shorten dipstick for checking the trans
fluid level. It's just like the one I had when the TH350 trans was in the car.

First I took some measurements, so I could duplicate them.

DipstickMeasurements_4833.jpg
DipstickMeasurements_4828.jpg


Cut it and put the twist back in so no one will know what I did here. :p

DipStickModification01_4850.jpg
DipStickModification02_4851.jpg


Now when I check the trans fluid level I will reach over the exhaust with
the engine running and pull the dipstick. Kinda like the fairy tale .....
over the hills and thru the woods I go with my arm. Dammit OUCH!

DipStickModificationInstalled_4853.jpg

 
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