TBucket 200-4R Transmission Project


It finally feels like I have topped the hill on this project and I'm picking up
speed. I'm trying to apply a little brake so I don't go too fast. I know speed
is good, but not in this case....all that comes later !!!

Woooowwww Nelly !!! :eek:

I got the rear section sub assemblies done and it's time to check the end
play. This procedure is not per the ATSG manual, but suggested by CKP
and should be much easier. The ATSG manual requires putting everything
in the trans case to check. ATSG says .004" to .015" for the end play, but
CKP wants .002" to .004" with their procedure.

RearSectionEndPlay_3881.jpg
RearSectionEndPlay_3880.jpg

When you see the word SELECTIVE WASHER, the indicates that you can
buy several washers with varying thickness so you can adjust the clearances.

There are two more thinner washers available...the thinnest is .114" to .119"
and the second is .121" to .126". Near as I can measure, I need a Selective
Thrust Washer that is .019" thinner than the one I'm have at .132" or a
thickness of .113" So I will have buy them and see how it comes out. I can
always have a few thousands ground off a washer if needed.

At this point I'm happy with the modifications where I have changed to a roller
thrust bearing from the thrust washer and still being close to the right numbers!

 
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I am just of a mind to drive up there again this weekend and watch it go in the case. Hmmmmm, maybe bring my welder and a borrowed tig rig with me. :D
 

I'm sure it's going to be more than a week before it goes in the case, but if you need some cherry bounce ..... Come on up!!! :D :p ...... You the next morning :shock:

 
Indycars said:

I'm sure it's going to be more than a week before it goes in the case, but if you need some cherry bounce ..... Come on up!!! :D :p ...... You the next morning :shock:

Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha! :lol: When you said, "Whoa Nelly" the first thought in my mind:
Omg there's a Oklahoma version of Beadreax from arkansas, "Thats vine, thats randy, and thats My Place"
 

Stopped by Oklahoma Transmission Supply and bought two Selective Thrust
Washers (ID 631). The washer measuring 0.116 inches gave me .006 inches
of clearance for the Rear Section End Play. My other choices were .100 inches
and .132 inches which was too thick to even get the snap ring in place.

ATSG says .004" to .015" for the end play, but CKP wants .002" to .004"
with their procedure. To get exactly .002"-.004" would require going to
the machine shop and more money. I think .006 inches is close enough.
Again it was easy to change the clearance by pressing down on the thrust
washer. When I look at the CKP pictures, they are not pressing on any
components during the checking procedure.

The photos above show ID 633 installed, but it's not required to check
end play. Actually it's much easier without it in place, giving the feeler
gauge a straight shot at the clearance you are trying to measure.

RearSectionEndPlay-Final_3882.jpg
RearSectionEndPlay-Final_3883.jpg

 
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the more times I read thru this thread and realize what you've accomplished the more and more Im amazed at your skills, :mrgreen:

it took me years to acquire the tools and skills and experience, I have for engine related work,
and you've jumped into this transmission rebuild and it appears as if your doing everything with far more skill than Id expect on a first effort!
LORD KNOWS, I sure screwed up a few things I did on my first engine builds, due to lack of experience and knowledge!
 
Indycars said:

Thanks for the kind words.....time will tell if you are right! :D :p

finger crossed and hope for the best.
You did not forget anytthing major hopefully :p, you know i have to make it special by adding some stress and insecurity.

The first time is always special.
 
mathd said:
You did not forget anything major hopefully :p, you know i have to make it special by adding some stress and insecurity.

The first time is always special.

It's really hard to tell if I forgot anything with 2 transmission torn apart
and all the new components strung out over the garage. Only way to know
is when I test it in the car!

STRESS ??? ......NO STRESS HERE!!! :eek: :shock:
 
Like I said a few weekends ago, you are far more into the details of your 200-4r than I was on my turbo 350 and I just had to adjust a few things. So I see your transmission working like a champ when your done Rick. I understand your hesitation to believe it, because I was a nervous wreck when I did mine. I think your tranny is going to be a good one. ;)
 
mathd said:
Start engine, put in drive.. BANG, oil and parts on the floor.. :) joking
Twenty Thousand comedians out of work and you are trying to be funny!

Mathd.jpg

Just joking! hehehehehehe !!!
 
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Well if there was a picture of me trying to be a comedian, it would prolly be Jerry Lewis.
 
Lol, am not fat like that :)
Jerry Lewis is very good, seen most of its movies really good.
 

There are lots of Lip Seals throughout a transmission. So getting the lip seals
installed such that the lip is NOT twisted will be important. With the parts
that bought from CKP, came this plastic wheel called a "Lip Wizard" to help
install the lip seals.

The Lip Wizard does a nice job until it gets to the lip seals with a small OD.
Then you can use a feeler gauge, I liked the .005 inch, it worked best for me.

Don't forget to lube the seals first. I'm using Vaseline, but they do make a
lube specifically for transmission assembly.

LipSealInstallation_3858.jpg
LipSealInstallation_3859.jpg
LipSealInstallation_3861.jpg



 
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You guys should have seen it when Rick and I were doing a piston, he was using his feeler gauge I was using the lip wizard. It was funny, four hands in little bitty space.
 
Man, I wish I had that Lip Wizard!!! I hated using feeler gauges. Yer always worried you might cut or twisted a seal. It happens. Fortunately, the compressed air tests will reveal any screw-ups.
 
DorianL said:
Man, I wish I had that Lip Wizard!!! I hated using feeler gauges. Yer always worried
you might cut or twisted a seal. It happens. Fortunately, the compressed air tests
will reveal any screw-ups.

I had the same feeling about the feeler gauges. It would be easy to make something
much better with some piano wire. Been doing all the suggested air tests, it's nice
to be able to check now and not have to wait until it's in the car.

This guy made several nice tools when rebuilding his 700R4 trans.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... 570&page=2

LipSealInstallerPianoWire.jpg

 
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I put these lip seals in several weeks ago, but I'm just now getting around
to posting this.

You can see how the lip seal is NOT fully seated into the groove. This was
really not that obvious, unless you are looking from the same perspective
as the photos. I didn't notice it right away. With Vaseline coating on the
seal and my fingers would not fit down inside that small space well enough,
I could not get the seal to flip over and sit down in the groove properly. So
I used a pick to get under the lip and work it all the way around carefully
to get the seal to seat properly in it's groove.

CenterSupportLipSealInstall_3885.jpg
CenterSupportLipSealInstall_3890.jpg


 
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