TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

So You never floated the Valves.
You never bent the valve with a Piston TDC Tool I believe too.
So How did the Mishap Occur then ?
 
I ran the 1965 Olds 425 in the 63 GP all week on 87 Octane Gas.
Hit 100 Mph more than a few times driving 75 miles to work.
185 Psi Cranking compression.
Been a while since I did the Dynamic Compression Calculator on the engine.
I recall its 8.5 :1.
Static is 10.25:1.
Factory Cast Iron Heads.
Running full ignition advance 37 degrees BTDC.
Vertex Mag fired.
Holley 770 Street Avenger.
Biggest single improvement is the New Griffin Pro Radiator I put in .
Coolant temps are rock steady stable and No More Temp spikes taking place.
 
I found Online Reviews of the MSD RTR For Chevy SBC & BBC.
Not Good At All.
Going to put on the Thread I started last night Rick on MSD Alternatives.
And Guaranteed Made In The USA.
Give me 10 min. Then Take a Look for yourself.
 
Rick, you had both problems of lack of traction off the line and detonation/pinging in the past.
My vote is to install the 2 degree retarded bushing to get your DCR to 8.12.
Once you drill the cam gear, you will be able to make changes any time you want.
Order the full set of bushings, like Grumpy posted.
Now would be the time to switch to a quick-change timing cover.
You will also need a cam lock plate to hold the bushing in place.
 
pencilball.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ow-to-reduce-its-likely-hood.9816/#post-66289
 
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Maniacmechanic1
He replaced the MSD distributor/ignition, its going to be fine.
I run a complete MSD ignition and while i dont have many miles on the car, i hold it on rev limiter every single ride and was never a single problem with detonation or the engine.
One thing to keep in mind is that the rev limiter is progressive, if its set at 6000 rpm the engine may still go up to 6200~.

Rick
About the detonation can, i use the MSD knock alert, i think its discontinued.(i can design a electrical circuit for that if thats necessary, i can also have PCB made for us from the factory and do the assembgly too. We can also add a microcontroller( and some lcd or bluetooth app to run on your phone too ;))

You should try to avoid that 14.7:1 air fuel ratio since this is a carb equipped RACE engine, you should move away from "good" gas milleage a little bit.
Lean plenum charge will cause detonation off the line(i had that problem when i tuned my engine, it did show on the knock alert even before boost kicked in and could not be tuned out with the accl. pump.) Probably because the blower cause a BIG plenum charge vs a NA motor but just saying.
 
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mathd said:
Maniacmechanic1
He replaced the MSD distributor/ignition, its going to be fine.
I run a complete MSD ignition and while i dont have many miles on the car, i hold it on rev limiter every single ride and was never a single problem with detonation or the engine.
One thing to keep in mind is that the rev limiter is progressive, if its set at 6000 rpm the engine may still go up to 6200~.

Rick
About the detonation can, i use the MSD knock alert, i think its discontinued.(i can design a electrical circuit for that if thats necessary, i can also have PCB made for us from the factory and do the assembgly too. We can also add a microcontroller( and some lcd or bluetooth app to run on your phone too ;))

You should just try to avoid that 14.7:1 air fuel ratio since this is a carb equipped RACE engine, you should forget about gas milleage a little bit.
Lean plenum charge will cause detonation off the line(i had the same problem when i tuned my engine, it did show on the knock alert)
Click to expand...
Davis DUI is the best for the Money.
For Rick.
Vertex Mag or Electromotive Crank Trigger is Best. It will take 1k.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
The T is no Race Engine.
Its a Torque engine.
Never was Race.
The Crower chosen is street.
Click to expand...
My engine too, 500+ foot pound torque from 2800RPM ;)
I think that high torque engine are more prone to detonation for various reason.
 
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mathd said:
My engine too, 500+ foot pound torque from 2800RPM ;)
I think that high torque engine are more prone to detonation for various reason.
Click to expand...
They Do Last Longer as Grumpy Safe Zone Hi Torque engines.
It does allow overall costs to build it to keep it affordable.

Dodge surprised everyone.
We will not go there today.
 
Indycars said:
It kinda looks that way!!!
Click to expand...
I will not give you one of my Chevy Vertex Mags for Free..
All I paid good money for in Pristine shape.
The Pontiac V8 Mags Vertex I paid $800 each. Super hard to find.
When I rebuild them myself I put $350-500 parts new into each.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
Once you drill the cam gear, you will be able to make changes any time you want.
Order the full set of bushings, like Grumpy posted.
Click to expand...
I already bought them 7 years ago from Crower when I bought the camshaft. They came in
0, 1, 2, 3, and 4 degrees.

Loves302Chevy said:
Now would be the time to switch to a quick-change timing cover.
You will also need a cam lock plate to hold the bushing in place.
Click to expand...
Do you have a favorite timing cover?
Cam lock plate, ok, didn't realize it had to have one.
 
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Dam that's not bad!! All I would need is about 24 oz per tank of 91 octane/15 gallons. It's the initial outlay
that hurts, but after that it would last me along time. I just need it on the highway for a few trips a year.

The cost for me would be $11.25 per 15 gallons.

Torco-Accelerator-87.jpg Torco-Accelerator-91.jpg Torco-Accelerator-93.jpg
 
Found some interesting things on the magnets in the valley. With the naked eye it just looks like
sludge on the magnets. After putting that sludge on another magnet and under 8x magnification
you can tell that the sludge is really very fine particles of steel that would have been circulating
thru the engine.

What you see came off of just 2 magnets, that is what I could get off. There are 8 magnets total in
the valley. There is still some on the magnets, I couldn't find my modeling clay to trap more debris.

FP11_MagnetDebrisInValley_00318.jpg


You can see how the magnetic particles are standing up.

FP11_MagnetDebrisFromValley_00332.jpg
 
yes I've told a great many people about the benefits of placing several high quality ceramic or similar high quality high heat tolerant magnets inside an engine,
no mater how well any engine is built youll eventually find micro-metallic trash circulating with the oil flow and inevitably use of the magnets in the lifter gallery,
heads and oil pan will result in you find a amazing amount of micro-metallic trash trapped on those magnets,
keep in mind all that trash would gone through the oil pump gears, well BEFORE it had any chance of getting trapped in the oil filter.
SBCOilingnew.png

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-shrapnel-screens.1458/#post-22845

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
 
Indycars said:
I already bought them 7 years ago from Crower when I bought the camshaft. They came in
0, 1, 2, 3, and 4 degrees.


Do you have a favorite timing cover?
Cam lock plate, ok, didn't realize it had to have one.
Click to expand...
Well, you could get the very expensive one like this $210,
SUM-G6312_ml.jpg

but I have used this one $50 with good results so far. The front seal being attached to that plate means you don't have to drop the front of the oil pan to get at the timing set.
969-6049.jpg

And here is another, but more expensive option.

 
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