TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

I was wondering about the flexplate and balancer. I had the assembly on the 385 david and I built last winter balanced and they had the balancer and the flexplate on the crank and balanced all three together. They ran the assembly at different rpms to check it once the balancing was complete to check for vibration and it was smooth as silk, my machine shop has enough pride in their work that they are not afraid to let a customer watch. I am guessing that is why our motor ran so well when we got it assembled and all of my attention to detail. I guess I am patient person, David on the other hand is too ancy and wants to hurry, hurry, hurry.
 
DorianL said:


Every since I trust no one to do the work on my car (Not that you have a choice with a machine shop) even if sometimes it can be a pain.

Click to expand...
Yeah i understand and am doing just the same.


Now i would also cash it asap.

Also about balancing, i know its not a 400 block(mine is internal balance dont know for yours) but my rotation assembly was balanced without the damper and flywheel(not flexplate in my case) we bought and setup the damper and flywheel later, can this cause any kind of issue?(it is an engine that dont see over 6000 rpm) So far no vibration at all.
 
mathd said:
DorianL said:


Every since I trust no one to do the work on my car (Not that you have a choice with a machine shop) even if sometimes it can be a pain.

Click to expand...
Yeah i understand and am doing just the same.


Now i would also cash it asap.

Also about balancing, i know its not a 400 block(mine is internal balance don't know for yours) but my rotation assembly was balanced without the damper and flywheel (not flex-plate in my case) we bought and setup the damper and flywheel later, can this cause any kind of issue?(it is an engine that don't see over 6000 rpm) So far no vibration at all.
Click to expand...

if your using an INTERNALLY BALANCED crank and rotating assembly the damper and flywheel or flex-plate are at least in theory neutrally balanced and will have minimal effect on the total assembly, BUT if your crank and rods etc. are EXTERNALLY balanced I can,t see how the assembly CAN BE balanced without those components

related info...yes actually reading the linked info helps!

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3900&p=13058&hilit=internally+externally#p13058

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=141&p=5391&hilit=internally+externally#p5391

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=259

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=89

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=6026
 
mathd said:
Also about balancing, i know its not a 400 block(mine is internal balance dont know for yours) but my rotation assembly was balanced without the damper and flywheel(not flexplate in my case) we bought and setup the damper and flywheel later, can this cause any kind of issue?(it is an engine that dont see over 6000 rpm) So far no vibration at all.
Click to expand...
Mine is internally balanced.

If you are internally balanced, then you can replace the flywheel or dampner without having to pull the motor apart so the machine can have the complete rotating assembly.

In your situation, it won't be quite as good as it could be, but you will be just fine. The manufacture's tolerance for balance is just not going to be as close as when you pay someone. They have to turn them out and make a profit.
 
Ours was external balancing, so I guess its required to balance with the dampner and flexplate.
 
busterrm said:
So did you get the check cashed before he stopped payment on it Rick?
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It will Monday before I can get to the bank. I will let you know when I get the cash.
 
I took the check to his bank and cashed it with no problems. I have my money!

I just hope this weld does not come out in the future!!!

WeldedBalHole03_2192.jpg
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Nice, at least you have your money.


I really dont know what to say about that weld beside that it looks strong and well fused but I just dont know enough to tell something about that.
Poke inside with a flathead screwdriver or a punch to make sure no bit come loose later, honestly i really dont know what to say.

I can say i dont like that little bead at the bottom of the hole and make sure its clean.
grumpyvette said:
if your using an INTERNALLY BALANCED crank and rotating assembly the damper and flywheel or flex-plate are at least in theory neutrally balanced and will have minimal effect on the total assembly, BUT if your crank and rods etc. are EXTERNALLY balanced I can,t see how the assembly CAN BE balanced without those components

related info...yes actually reading the linked info helps!

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3900&p=13058&hilit=internally+externally#p13058

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=141&p=5391&hilit=internally+externally#p5391

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=259

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=89

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=6026
Click to expand...

That make lots more sense to me now.
 
Really, from what I see, the weld will hold. What your seeing in the pinholes and purosity is the person doing it either had the machine set too cold or they were long arching. It looks like the weld is tied into the parent metals, just poor quality putting it in.
 
Indycars said:
I took the check to his bank and cashed it with no problems. I have my money!

I just hope this weld does not come out in the future!!!
Click to expand...

AMEN!!!!
 
mathd said:
Nice, at least you have your money.
Thanks!

I really dont know what to say about that weld beside that it looks strong and well fused but I just dont know enough to tell something about that.
That's the problem, no one can say with any confidence what will happen.

Poke inside with a flathead screwdriver or a punch to make sure no bit come loose later, honestly i really dont know what to say.

I can say i dont like that little bead at the bottom of the hole and make sure its clean.
LOL, you noticed that to! When I posted that picture I noticed that BB at the bottom of the hole and went back looking to see if it was still there. It was gone.
Click to expand...
 

Sorry it took me so long to post a reply, had to help my bother with his computer problems. That took a 1/2 day and I wanted to have some pics to go with my post.

After I got my rotating assembly back from it's 2nd balancing, I needed to smooth and debur those edges that were created from the grinding and drilling to balance things.

So this is where I'm at now. I have cleaned, lubricated (with assembly lube) and bagged for assembly:

Crankshaft
Heads (No studs yet)
Distributor ( Except for oiling modification for gears, might modify the block instead )

I'm almost done with cleaning the rods. Then I will do the pistons and assemble them onto the rods.

RodCleaning_2201.jpg

I'm really looking forward to the frustrating job of installing the C-Clips. I did buy the $10 tool for this, so we will see how well that works.

C-Clips.jpg
Tool_W927.jpg
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I was just getting ready to post a little something when I see your question Grumpy. You know
I might have already assembled this engine if it wasn't for the many hours taking pictures, editing
pictures and reading other post of course. But Hey I'm enjoying posting ..... if people keep reading. :D

I needed something soft to clean any abrasive dust and metal from the piston grooves. So
the best I could come up with was some playing cards and a sponge like washer that fit the
1.5, 1.5 & 3.0 millimeter ring grooves. The Scott towels seem to hold up pretty good for getting
inside the piston and around the curves at the wrist pin ends.

I used my Dazor lamp with 4x magnification after cleaning and blow drying, to make sure I didn't
miss anything.

Soon after I finished I would bag them using a Zip Lock bag. Zip Locks are my friend, I use
them for many many thing such as keeping bolts organized from the car disassemble.

I have all the rods cleaned and bag in the big box on the bench behind the Dazor lamp.


CleaningPiston_2210.jpg
Cleaning_2208.jpg
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Indycars said:
But Hey I'm enjoying posting ..... if people keep reading.
Click to expand...
Don't worry, even if am not replying all the time am taking care of that part!
 
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