Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
I don't know why the pics re rotated ? I had rotated them before I posted them. Sorry guy's.
Unforgiven Project
- Thread starter Unforgiven
- Start date
Yeah, blame it on me when I'm not there to defend myself. Well it's obvious where I won't beBesides.... Ricks blueprint called for them! I had to explain to the wife the reason for new headers... So I told her that Rick
designed the motor and it called for them.
stopping by for a visit now unless the wife is out of town!!!
Yeah, my neck sure got a workout looking at those pics!
Did you do all the wiring from your head or did you have drawings? Yes, I like to crimp, solder
and shrink wrap connections. Much better than crimping thru the connector insulation, looks
terrible to me and not as reliable.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Yeah, blame it on me when I'm not there to defend myself. Well it's obvious where I won't be
stopping by for a visit now unless the wife is out of town!!!
HAHAHA....on the contrary my friend! She has a sense of respect for you.. You helped design my motor and have gave great advise to me.
She has seen the pictures of your T-bucket you build from scratch and likes it.. You might say, that if Rick say's that's the way to do it....
That how it is going to be done!!
As far as the wiring.... YES , it all came from my head. I did need to down load some relay pictures to keep my trigger wires in order though.
The EFI gave me the hardest time because I needed to keep the communication lines seperate from the power lines to stop EMI and RFI
interferance. It was the first time I have dealt with that type of stuff and I was a little nervous.
The EFI has a built in fuse and relay that goes to the fuel pump. It said that if my pump pulls more that 15 amps... I need to use that wire to
trigger another relay for the pump.. that,s two relays now that trigger the pump! Confusing to me...YES!
The wiring only consists of a fan, a fuel pump, wiper motor, gauges, and EFI..... Oh and alternator and starter.
It's an off road truck so I need no lights and stuff related to the road.
I used mainly 10 and 12 gauge wires for all power and grounds, And 16 gauge for the gauges.
Yes I like the solder and shrink tube alot. It's makes for a nice clean and strong connection. It does take quite abit longer to do .. but it's worth it in the end!
Oh YEA... I mounted the Hyperspark ignition box and the hyperspark coil under the dash to keep from getting wet. That posed a challenge for keeping the communication wires and power wires seperated.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
I will be replacing my power steering pump with a separate reservoir and pump style over the winter. I added the tube extension to the saginaw pump
for added fluid capacity cause the pump is driving an Orbital valve that is feeding a 2" x 8" stroke hydraulic cylinder. My steering is full hydro.
for added fluid capacity cause the pump is driving an Orbital valve that is feeding a 2" x 8" stroke hydraulic cylinder. My steering is full hydro.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Rick... did you straighten the pics!!! Nice! thank you
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
This is how I made my connections... then slid the shrink tube over .
hehehe !!!Rick... did you straighten the pics!!! Nice! thank you
Thanks for the nice comment!!! When can I expect the check???HAHAHA....on the contrary my friend! She has a sense of respect for you.. You helped design my motor and have gave great advise to me.
She has seen the pictures of your T-bucket you build from scratch and likes it.. You might say, that if Rick say's that's the way to do it....
That how it is going to be done!!
If you do have trouble with RFI the links below might be helpful.
https://www.wirecare.com/category/braided-sleeving/metal-shielding
https://www.wirecare.com/category/braided-sleeving
I've done some wire-to-wire connections like your first photo, but it seemed to require more exposed
wire than just wrapping them around each other to get a tight bundle. So I went with just wrapping
them and solder.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Well, the pulleys align now.
Keep the blue valve covers. Looks good. The bumper sticker ties it all together.
Good luck with the first fire!
Keep the blue valve covers. Looks good. The bumper sticker ties it all together.
Good luck with the first fire!
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Thanks Mike!
I had a DAYS OF THUNDER moment last night....remember when Robert Duvall was walking around the race car in the barn talking to it, and found
that a shock was leaking on the ground....he said "this is not the reaction I was looking for"
Well last night I walked into the barn and seen a puddle of water under the motor... I repeated that famous qoute!!
I found that one of the brass freeze plugs did not seal 100%. It has a very small weep. I was thinking about putting in some Barrs leak to
see if it will seal. If it does not, I will replace it. I will know during break in when the system is under pressure wheather it will hold or not.
It is a rear driver side plug so it is possible to replace it without pulling the motor. The new headers are arched high above the head and come down
over the frame so there is plenty of room to get to the plug.
Yes I was not sure at first about the blue valve covers... Then my wife had bought that metal sign for my barn wall, and had the idea of bolting it to the
firewall. I really liked the blue covers then! IT"S DIFFERENT THAN EVERYONE ELSE!
Hoping to fire it up tonight..
I had a DAYS OF THUNDER moment last night....remember when Robert Duvall was walking around the race car in the barn talking to it, and found
that a shock was leaking on the ground....he said "this is not the reaction I was looking for"
Well last night I walked into the barn and seen a puddle of water under the motor... I repeated that famous qoute!!
I found that one of the brass freeze plugs did not seal 100%. It has a very small weep. I was thinking about putting in some Barrs leak to
see if it will seal. If it does not, I will replace it. I will know during break in when the system is under pressure wheather it will hold or not.
It is a rear driver side plug so it is possible to replace it without pulling the motor. The new headers are arched high above the head and come down
over the frame so there is plenty of room to get to the plug.
Yes I was not sure at first about the blue valve covers... Then my wife had bought that metal sign for my barn wall, and had the idea of bolting it to the
firewall. I really liked the blue covers then! IT"S DIFFERENT THAN EVERYONE ELSE!
Hoping to fire it up tonight..
Take a video if you can!
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
I will Rick.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
I ran into a few issues last night . They were expected. I have moved the start date to Thursday or Friday now. There was a fitting on the EFI unit that needed to be boost referenced below the blower... it so happened to be a 1/16 npt fitting that no one had available. So... my local NAPA store said they could hook me up with a plastic hard line compression setup that they could put together and have available to me at noon today!
I finished up the collector extentions that Rick required from his build sheet he produced for me.
I stitch welded them onto the header collector.. After I finished welding, I shined a LED light around the outside of the weld
and peered inside the tube to examine for any pin holes that may have appeared. Had to fix a couple tiny holes. It was hard trying to
reach around the pipe with the frame in the way. But it is a strong weld ! Looking back on it... I prolly would have produced a much nicer weld
if I would have tuned the pressure up on the argon mix. I used that VHT ceramic high temp paint to finish.
Have to reconnect the steering shaft to the orbital tonight also.
One issue I am concerned with is the fact that I tried to turn the motor over with a socket on the balancer bolt and it only moved about 3 degrees,
The bolt wanted to either keep tighening or it was twisting! I am going to remove the bolt tonight and replace it with a new one. I do not have a flywheel tool to tun the flex plate so I may make one up today.
My concern was that the motor would not spin easy... as it did when it was out of the truck. Maybe it is because all the belts are on now..?
Anyway.. I need to install two of the three convertor bolts ...thats why I needed to spin the motor. I may try to push the starter button without the ignition on to try and bump it.
I have a punch list made up and have about 2 hours of work to do before I fire it for the first time... The rest of the work such as harness install
and sheet metal cover for the engine bay can be done after the fire up.
Praying that the EFI performs well from the start... I only have 2 weeks to be ready for the Michigan Mud Jam event!
So I need some time to tune a system that is new to me! Nervous ....YES!!!
I keep slowing myself down and rechecking everything as I go... Excitement is a given... but I know full well it can ruin things in a BIG hurry too!
Wish me luck guys... I will post more and keep up with everything!
I finished up the collector extentions that Rick required from his build sheet he produced for me.
I stitch welded them onto the header collector.. After I finished welding, I shined a LED light around the outside of the weld
and peered inside the tube to examine for any pin holes that may have appeared. Had to fix a couple tiny holes. It was hard trying to
reach around the pipe with the frame in the way. But it is a strong weld ! Looking back on it... I prolly would have produced a much nicer weld
if I would have tuned the pressure up on the argon mix. I used that VHT ceramic high temp paint to finish.
Have to reconnect the steering shaft to the orbital tonight also.
One issue I am concerned with is the fact that I tried to turn the motor over with a socket on the balancer bolt and it only moved about 3 degrees,
The bolt wanted to either keep tighening or it was twisting! I am going to remove the bolt tonight and replace it with a new one. I do not have a flywheel tool to tun the flex plate so I may make one up today.
My concern was that the motor would not spin easy... as it did when it was out of the truck. Maybe it is because all the belts are on now..?
Anyway.. I need to install two of the three convertor bolts ...thats why I needed to spin the motor. I may try to push the starter button without the ignition on to try and bump it.
I have a punch list made up and have about 2 hours of work to do before I fire it for the first time... The rest of the work such as harness install
and sheet metal cover for the engine bay can be done after the fire up.
Praying that the EFI performs well from the start... I only have 2 weeks to be ready for the Michigan Mud Jam event!
So I need some time to tune a system that is new to me! Nervous ....YES!!!
I keep slowing myself down and rechecking everything as I go... Excitement is a given... but I know full well it can ruin things in a BIG hurry too!
Wish me luck guys... I will post more and keep up with everything!
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
They are out... That is what concerns me..
I don't know what you have, but I had a similar problem when I was trying to tighten my
balancer bolt and it kept turning. I thought the threads were stripped. Turning the bolt was
actually just spitting the lock washer out. The head of the bolt was too small.
It now has a nice ARP bolt.
.
balancer bolt and it kept turning. I thought the threads were stripped. Turning the bolt was
actually just spitting the lock washer out. The head of the bolt was too small.
It now has a nice ARP bolt.
.
Can you turn the motor backwards? Then forward ...... does it stop at the same place???
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Hi Rick.
well what was happening. I had a 2' breaker bar with a 5/8" socket and tried to turn the motor over on the balancer bolt. I only turned the bar about 40 degrees. The motor turned about 2-3 degrees, then the bolt started to turn without the motor turning. When I tried to reverse the turn, the bolt seemed to want to break loose. I stopped everything and called it a night at that point
for fear I would do more harm than good.
I used a torque wrench when I first tightened that bolt. Cant remember what I went to at the moment but 60ft lbs sounds about right. when I set the rockers, the motor turned over like a fresh close tolerance motor. Everything was good. After I installed the motor, I installed the blower belt and V-belts. Last night was the first time I tried to turn the motor over since the install.
I will look at the bolt tonight to see if it did what happened to you.
well what was happening. I had a 2' breaker bar with a 5/8" socket and tried to turn the motor over on the balancer bolt. I only turned the bar about 40 degrees. The motor turned about 2-3 degrees, then the bolt started to turn without the motor turning. When I tried to reverse the turn, the bolt seemed to want to break loose. I stopped everything and called it a night at that point
for fear I would do more harm than good.
I used a torque wrench when I first tightened that bolt. Cant remember what I went to at the moment but 60ft lbs sounds about right. when I set the rockers, the motor turned over like a fresh close tolerance motor. Everything was good. After I installed the motor, I installed the blower belt and V-belts. Last night was the first time I tried to turn the motor over since the install.
I will look at the bolt tonight to see if it did what happened to you.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Also... Don't know if it matters... I took the factory thick washer ( like what you show) and ground about .010 off each side to make sure it was flat and parallel . For the bolt... I used a grade 8