Unforgiven Project

So you are saying that this block was previously cracked in the lifter valley? Interesting fix.
 
Very Nice Video's Brain.
That is the first time that I have seen that done.
It will reinforce my argument with the shop floor foreman. LOL
He is going to owe me a lunch Monday!!!
 
Well..A couple of my buddies stopped by to see the progress on my truck. Being that our season starts in 40 days, They realize that my new motor build
is not going to be complete for this year. Koty made the suggestion that I take the components out of my block and have the crank reconditioned ,
then install them into a block that he is offering me to at least get me up and running for the season. It won't cost a whole hell of alot to do. I can then continue the new build with the Dart E85 motor and not have to have that feeling of being swayed into buying cheap parts for the build to get me up and running. I was hesitant on borrowing his block for fear of blowing it up ,but he stressed to me that if it did, I would only be required to buy the beer for the tear down.
That's how our group ROLLS! We help each other when and if we can.:)
I thought about it overnight, and I think I am going to take him up on it. I feel for under $1000 I can be up and running with the same power levels of last year and it won't really take away from the E85 build.
 
Unforgiven said:
Well..A couple of my buddies stopped by to see the progress on my truck. Being that our season starts in 40 days, They realize that my new motor build
is not going to be complete for this year. Koty made the suggestion that I take the components out of my block and have the crank reconditioned ,
then install them into a block that he is offering me to at least get me up and running for the season. It won't cost a whole hell of alot to do. I can then continue the new build with the Dart E85 motor and not have to have that feeling of being swayed into buying cheap parts for the build to get me up and running. I was hesitant on borrowing his block for fear of blowing it up ,but he stressed to me that if it did, I would only be required to buy the beer for the tear down.
That's how our group ROLLS! We help each other when and if we can.:)
I thought about it overnight, and I think I am going to take him up on it. I feel for under $1000 I can be up and running with the same power levels of last year and it won't really take away from the E85 build.
Click to expand...
When we were dirt track racing street stock its what we had to do often. Started off with a 369 ci stroker SBC. It had an offset ground forged crank 3-5/8" inch stroke. Served us well 2008-2010. The secret weapon was the Iskenderien full race oval track camshaft I chose. Wind out to 8500 rpms.
It had used Mint carillo connecting rods.
3 rd season it blew up. Was a shame but it won many Races !
Guys were getting real fast. Chicago guys showed up with $40 K engines. Was supposed to be a $2K total cost engine class.
So next a 419 ci SBC was built. Ran good. But never had the same winning power of the 369. But they were all real fast by then.

No money & race season starts gotta do what you have to do !
We had local sponsors back then. Some winters $10 K cash raised.
Some just $200 bucks.
If not winning no one gives you free Money $$$$$.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
I would use a Forged crank to get out racing right away again.
You can not count on a nodular crank in a Chevy.
Severe flexing was taking place in your old engine.
Click to expand...

That was a topic too... I can buy a scat 9000 for $259 but I still have to pay to have it balanced. The crank I have may be modular but it has been balanced with the rest of the assembly. Now that fact that it has been flexing may have thrown it off , and I may have to balance it again too . I am going to think about this for a week and listen to everyone then make a decision. There is not enough power to really buy a forged crank for this motor. balance is key
 
Unforgiven said:
That was a topic too... I can buy a scat 9000 for $259 but I still have to pay to have it balanced. The crank I have may be modular but it has been balanced with the rest of the assembly. Now that fact that it has been flexing may have thrown it off , and I may have to balance it again too . I am going to think about this for a week and listen to everyone then make a decision. There is not enough power to really buy a forged crank for this motor. balance is key
Click to expand...
I bought and used a Scat 9000 series nodular crank back around 2012 for my 1994 GMC suburban.
Main thrust failed. Took out the crank.
Bought it from Summit for $199. 1-piece rear main seal.
Called SCAT & they said it is rated for 500 HP. Factory Bob weight balanced even though crank is static lighter weight.
Layed on my back & lifted the crank up. The stepson bolted on a main cap #3.
Heads never came off. Put it back together. lasted 40,000 miles .
 
How much do you stand to loose if it blows up?

It might be a way to get the larger blower you want if the failure takes it out also. :rolleyes:
 
Indycars said:
How much do you stand to loose if it blows up?

It might be a way to get the larger blower you want if the failure takes it out also. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I like the way you think!!

As for the first question.... Maybe a few weeks sleeping on the couch!
 
Unforgiven said:
Well said! You understand ;)
Click to expand...
The most important criteria ...
Make sure its a Good Block core with no cracks. Magnaflux check.
Check for core shift. Sonic test best.
Make sure to align hone the block. A must in a Chevy V8. if you have to align bore ditch the block its not worth it $$$.
Deck the block on both sides.
Have the rotating assembly balanced.
Have the block honed with a good BHJ block deck plate. A must do on any race engine.
Use forged pistons for racing.
Give the top ring land plenty of gap clearance for racing. Up top .030" high boost I have done with no ill effects or blowby.

More of course but its a start to get back out there in 40 days.
 
Yes.. that's all a given Brian. Lucky for me that one of our buddies works at Katech Performance and my machine cost is near nil.
 
Hey guys... I am going to step out for the day, it's my sons 30th birthday today and we are heading out to go see him. He lives about 1 1/2 hours away and we don't get to see him much.
I may be back online later this evening when we get back though.
 
It would probably be a good idea Hardblock this engine.
Discussed a few days back.
Tradeoff is higher water temps street driving & way higher oil temps cruising.
Oil cooler of course can be used. Its a $500-1,000 more parts investment. No way to shortcut & have 100 % reliable for race use especially in Mud 4x4 racing.
Way around that is to use a superior Race oil . Street stock we used 40w straight oil. No oil cooler. water temps often 300 F with radiator plugged full with dirt & mud. It only took 1-2 laps & it was plugged. Unavoidable for all dirt tracking.
50W straight race oil used by real powerfull guys with 700-1000 hp.

Need a high flow Edelbrock Victor or Stewert racing mecahanical belt driven water pump SBC.
Electric water pump can be used like Moroso, CSI, & Miezure. Has advantages. Truck off leave electric water pump on & electric fan(s). Will be cooled off to 100 F in 2-3 minutes typical from 200 -300 f water temps.

Forget about any street oil.
Its a race engine.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
It would probably be a good idea Hardblock this engine.
Discussed a few days back.
Tradeoff is higher water temps street driving & way higher oil temps cruising.
Oil cooler of course can be used. Its a $500-1,000 more parts investment. No way to shortcut & have 100 % reliable for race use especially in Mud 4x4 racing.
Way around that is to use a superior Race oil . Street stock we used 40w straight oil. No oil cooler. water temps often 300 F with radiator plugged full with dirt & mud. It only took 1-2 laps & it was plugged. Unavoidable for all dirt tracking.
50W straight race oil used by real powerfull guys with 700-1000 hp.
Click to expand...

It,s a borrowed block , so a partial fill would be up to the owner.
This truck is strickly offroad and will never see pavement.
Radiator w/electric fans , oil cooler, and trans cooler are all relocated to the bed of the box. They stay clean.
I like the VR1 20w50
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0576.PNG
    IMG_0576.PNG
    299.2 KB · Views: 4
Maniacmechanic1 said:
He is a Racer.
Gotta get back out there.
Fall of 2019 is end of race season typical in central midwest USA.
He can not stand sitting around while his Buddies Go racing.
Click to expand...
What he said. Take your buddy up on the block. You are not going to be comfortable watching everyone else race.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top