Electrical Wiring for a TBucket
- Thread starter Indycars
- Start date
mathd
solid fixture here in the forum
Well this is almost it.
Remove the connection form both the stop/turn light C and F to the brake switch B.
And do NOT connect both flasher/stop light F and C together.
Then have the Brake switch B connection to the always-on power.
This should be doing it if i understand correctly..
Do you have any more info on the hardware(manual) so i can get a better understanding of it all?.
Remove the connection form both the stop/turn light C and F to the brake switch B.
And do NOT connect both flasher/stop light F and C together.
Then have the Brake switch B connection to the always-on power.
This should be doing it if i understand correctly..
Do you have any more info on the hardware(manual) so i can get a better understanding of it all?.
NOT A TA
reliable source of info
I'm colorblind so it's very hard for me to follow color coding if things aren't in the same order.
I don't see front parking light wiring from the light switch.
Are there 4 way hazard flashers?
Are there dash indicators for turn signals and High beam?
Horn, brake light, and headlight switch should get power from the always on fuse panel but what is the other wire from the panel to the column for? Turn signals should be powered from keyed power fuse panel.
What is the PXL in a circle?
I don't see front parking light wiring from the light switch.
Are there 4 way hazard flashers?
Are there dash indicators for turn signals and High beam?
Horn, brake light, and headlight switch should get power from the always on fuse panel but what is the other wire from the panel to the column for? Turn signals should be powered from keyed power fuse panel.
What is the PXL in a circle?
mathd
solid fixture here in the forum
NOT A TA said:
Dash indicator can be plugged to the front turn.
I dont see a 4 way hazard relay, so to me, maby there is no hazard flasher or this function is part of the steering column? we need more info.
I think we are running out of bulb for the parking light there haha
. I guess he could use dual filament light for the front turn/parking light.And where are the back-up/reverse light?
You probably want to use something like this below
There some situation where you dont want the horn, hazard flasher or headlight to stop working like in an accident so you can be seen or heard and maby someone else can avoid hitting you or finding you easily in the ditch in an emergency.
Many car use unfused(well using a fused link) power for the horn and headlamp.
The turn signal indicators are in the speedometer.
I will need to add another flasher for the 4-ways.
Mathieu, Not sure what device you want a manual for but I do have the headlight
switch manual if that helps.
Download it here or view it below if it's not too small:
I will have more info tomorrow, thanks for all the input. You two guys make a great team !!!
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mathd said:
Don't have exactly what you are asking for but this MAY help.
The PDF file below is where I got the wiring table you've already seen, but maybe
it has something else you can use. It's 12 pages long.
These pics show both sides of the switch, I have more if you need another view.
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NOT A TA
reliable source of info
Usually power for 4 way flashers comes from "always on" power while turn signal power comes from "switched power" so that the turn signals aren't operational unless the ignition switch is in the on position. this is why a lot of vehicles have 2 flasher mechanisms.
one modification Ive seen done on cars that have 4 head lights , is to modify the head light wiring with diodes so all the head light filaments light up when the high beam switch is selected thus both the high and low beam lamps remain lit under that option, which is NOT true in all cases with factory wiring and switch options
More details:
1.) No backup or reverse lights.
2.) No parking lights in front, only turn signals and headlights.
3.) Turn signals and high beam indicator lights are in the speedometer
4.) All 4 turn signals and rear tail lights are LED. OR ..... everything but the headlights are LED.
5.) Flashers are electronic.
6.) No fuseable links.
7.) Yes a resettable breaker to replace ATO/ATC fuse for headlights and 4 way flasher would be a good idea.
8.) Horn button will be in the console, not on the steering column.
9.) Added seconds flasher for 4 way/hazards, but how do I wire it. Do I need a DPDT switch???
10.) Added tag light to drawing below.
11.) Added numbers to the fuse panel for referencing.
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Arrrgh, this is my second try at posting, first time Firefox crashed and
lost everything.
Moving forward I needed to get the windshield posts finished so I can
move on to the wiring again. I soaked the Oak in water for several hours,
then clamped and screwed it in place and let it dry.
Started with a layer of fiberglass, then wood, fiberglass, wood and then
another layer of fiberglass.
Next I lined the post with this tape that is very thin. It's used for sealing
flue duct work.
Prepared the surface by sanding down to the original fiberglass with a wood
rasp. Several applications of Acetone and holes every 1/2 inch.
Before I mixed the hardener with the Duraglas, I used fiberglass resin to thin
the Duraglas by 25-35 percent reduction. Pours like thick syrup, very slowly.
NOTE: I did not use Bondo to fill the cavity, I used Duraglass which is made up
of short hairs of fiberglass and resin. It's water proof, used in marine applications.
Below you can see how the Duraglas penetrated the fiberglass thru the anchor holes.
This is how it looks now. Next I will use a thin layer of Bondo to get that finished look.
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as always, GREAT PICTURES ,THANK YOU! and I'm glad your making significant progress!
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
As alway loving this Rick
