Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Right on the money!
Quality engine parts don't come in plain white boxes!
- Thread starter Loves302Chevy
- Start date
8
87vette81big
Guest
Ok. Typing from my Phone.
ISKY 264 MEGA
IVO=24
IVC=60
EVO=60
EVC=24
OVERLAP =48
LOBE CENTERLINE=108
COMPRESSION RATIO 9-10.5 :1
TREMENDOUS TORQUE AND GOOD HIGH PERFORMANCE POWER.
AXLE RATIO 3.23/3.70
TRANSMISSION - ANY
CARB UP TO 625 CFM.
YOU HAVE A Q-JET. NO WORRIES .
THE SECONDARY AIR DOOR ONLY OPENS UP TO WHAT THE ENGINE DEMANDS FOR AIRFLOW CFM.
ISKY 264 MEGA
IVO=24
IVC=60
EVO=60
EVC=24
OVERLAP =48
LOBE CENTERLINE=108
COMPRESSION RATIO 9-10.5 :1
TREMENDOUS TORQUE AND GOOD HIGH PERFORMANCE POWER.
AXLE RATIO 3.23/3.70
TRANSMISSION - ANY
CARB UP TO 625 CFM.
YOU HAVE A Q-JET. NO WORRIES .
THE SECONDARY AIR DOOR ONLY OPENS UP TO WHAT THE ENGINE DEMANDS FOR AIRFLOW CFM.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
YES. YES. YES.
The only thing that bothers me is the 108 degree lobe separation.
My thoughts are that it should be wider. But no computer this time.
The only thing that bothers me is the 108 degree lobe separation.
My thoughts are that it should be wider. But no computer this time.
8
87vette81big
Guest
ISKY 270 HL HYD.
2000-6000 RPM .
IVO 24
IVC 66
EVO 60
EVC 30
LIFT .445" 1.5 ROCKER
270 ADV DURATION
216 @.050" DURATION
108 LOBE CENTERLINE
HIGH POWER CAM FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE HIGH OR LOW COMPRESSION .
MANUAL OR AUTO WITH STALL.
3.70-4.11 GEARS.
550-650 CFM CARB
2000-6000 RPM .
IVO 24
IVC 66
EVO 60
EVC 30
LIFT .445" 1.5 ROCKER
270 ADV DURATION
216 @.050" DURATION
108 LOBE CENTERLINE
HIGH POWER CAM FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE HIGH OR LOW COMPRESSION .
MANUAL OR AUTO WITH STALL.
3.70-4.11 GEARS.
550-650 CFM CARB
8
87vette81big
Guest
No worries with 108 .
Pay attention to Overlap.
We want 43-55 degrees.
Isky uses the 5th cycle to the MAX .
UNLIKE OTHERS.
Pay attention to Overlap.
We want 43-55 degrees.
Isky uses the 5th cycle to the MAX .
UNLIKE OTHERS.
8
87vette81big
Guest
ISKY 270 MEGA HYD
2000-6200
IVO 27
IVC 63
EVO 63
EVC 27
LIFT .465 1.5 ROCKER
270 ADV DURATION
221@.050 ADV DURATION
108 LOBE CENTERLINE
STRONG MIDRANGE PERFORMANCE .
IDLE FAIR
MANUAL OR AUTO
3.70-4.11 GEARS
550-650 CFM CARB
2000-6200
IVO 27
IVC 63
EVO 63
EVC 27
LIFT .465 1.5 ROCKER
270 ADV DURATION
221@.050 ADV DURATION
108 LOBE CENTERLINE
STRONG MIDRANGE PERFORMANCE .
IDLE FAIR
MANUAL OR AUTO
3.70-4.11 GEARS
550-650 CFM CARB
8
87vette81big
Guest
264 Mega HYD.....IDLE GOOD.
270 HL HYD IDLE....FAIR
270 HL HYD IDLE....FAIR
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Like Goldilocks and the 3 bears - ISKY 270 HL HYD too small, New ISKY 270 MEGA HYD too big, ISKY 264 Mega HYD JUST RIGHT! with 1.6 rockers. Thanks.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Your Welcome Loves 302.
Call Ron at Iskenderien Cams direct.
See what valvesprings he recommends for your application .
Confirm if what you have now will work or not.
ISKY VALVESPRINGS ARE TOP NOTCH IF YOU NEED THEM.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Would you agree with this: T/A has 4.10 gears and 28" tires. But transmission is 700R4 with 3.06 1st gear and .7 overdrive. So the low 1st gear helps me get this heavy car off the line, and then I have the overdrive for going down the highway which equals a 2.87 rear gear.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Yes you will be OK.
ISKY CAMS ARE VERY FLEXIBLE I HAVE FOUND 1ST HAND.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
87vette81big - Thanks for taking the time to do this with me.
The more I look at the ISKY 264 Mega, the more I'm liking it.
I'll have to look at my heads again and see what my options are for spring pressures.
There is no smiley face for, "Yeah, I'm really looking forward to going through that again."
I will call Ron.
You like to use what you KNOW works. What do you recommend for moly cam lube paste and additive?
I always used Crane paste and EOS, but this time I used the Crane Superlube.
I ran the Wallace calculators on this cam. Here's what I got:
The more I look at the ISKY 264 Mega, the more I'm liking it.
I'll have to look at my heads again and see what my options are for spring pressures.
There is no smiley face for, "Yeah, I'm really looking forward to going through that again."
I will call Ron.
You like to use what you KNOW works. What do you recommend for moly cam lube paste and additive?
I always used Crane paste and EOS, but this time I used the Crane Superlube.
I ran the Wallace calculators on this cam. Here's what I got:
8
87vette81big
Guest
Calculated Specs Looks Great Loves 302.
It is what it is. Keep a clear head and complete the task(s) required.
Rest assured your using the Very best from Ron Iskenderien .
The piston rings should be OK. If no cylinder wall scratches are present then a light dingle ball hone may just be required. Or no hone required. Reuse the same piston rings you have now.
Use Clevite P series engine bearings for your Street application. They will deliver 100% reliability for at least 200,000 miles with proper engine maintenance oil changes .
Durabond cam bearings can be used if you like instead of Cleavites. I have used them. Either or works just fine .
Yes I like using what I know works.
There is not much spare cash in anyone's pocket wallet or checkbook today.
There will be again but not this month Jan 2016.
Ask Ron at Isky for his Super Cam Lube Moly formula.
He may include it no cost with your Mega 264 Hyd CL Cam & Lifter Kit.
If you buy direct from him he often can give you a better deal than Summit or others.
Express shipped to you for a nominal charge.
I always buy Direct from Ron .
Any tips Grumpy gives for Cam and Lifter lube is excellent.
Crane made excellent products and still do.
I have used their pour in Cam Super Lube bottle with Zero issues.
A dash of Marvel Mystery oil as Grumpy Loves will not hurt a thing.
I have been using it myself on a regular basis in my own vehicles.
I pay $3.88 a quart at my local Wally world - Wal Mart.
GM EOS is the very best if you can find it.
Pour 1 quart over the Cam & Lifters after installation right before you bolt the intake manifold back on.
Timing cover & oil pan installed before hand on your 334 ci SBC V8 engine.
In the past I used 1 bottle Of GM EOS poured over over the Cam & Lifters .
ISKY Moly Camshaft lube on the C & L .
Another 1 bottle of GM EOS added to the oil pan from the valvecover oil fill port.
8 - quarts of Castrol 10w30 conventional Dino oil in my Milodon Pontiac V8 Race oil pan.
Its a high capacity oil pan.
I never ever had a camshaft fail or lifters fail.
ISKENDERIEN CAMSHAFT & LIFTERS USED.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
I planned to just do the diesel fuel flush, because so little metal came off the just the tip of that one lobe (.038").
The heads and intake are staying on. I might drop the oil pan and inspect the oil pump and bearings.
I have already seen that the cam bearings are fine. The rear cam bearing is the 1st in line after the oil filter
and be would be 1st to see any debris. Then the rear main bearing.
I will certainly look at the piston skirts below where that failed lobe was.
First I have to inspect those oil filters and see what options I have with my heads regarding spring pressures.
Then I will call Ron at ISKY.
I thought (and always used) straight 30 weight NON-DETERGENT oil for break-in. With EOS.
Because the Zinc & Phosphorus compete for bonding sites with the detergents in multi-grade oils.
I used the Crane pour-in Superlube this time because of their high numbers. I still have some old
EOS on the shelf. EOS always worked, but the oils were also better years ago.
And I have 30 bottles of Howard's Max ZPM.
The heads and intake are staying on. I might drop the oil pan and inspect the oil pump and bearings.
I have already seen that the cam bearings are fine. The rear cam bearing is the 1st in line after the oil filter
and be would be 1st to see any debris. Then the rear main bearing.
I will certainly look at the piston skirts below where that failed lobe was.
First I have to inspect those oil filters and see what options I have with my heads regarding spring pressures.
Then I will call Ron at ISKY.
I thought (and always used) straight 30 weight NON-DETERGENT oil for break-in. With EOS.
Because the Zinc & Phosphorus compete for bonding sites with the detergents in multi-grade oils.
I used the Crane pour-in Superlube this time because of their high numbers. I still have some old
EOS on the shelf. EOS always worked, but the oils were also better years ago.
And I have 30 bottles of Howard's Max ZPM.
Id bet that large magnet on the oil filter went a long way in trapping the majority of the micro metallic trash, before it reached the bearings.
thats one reason Ive used , and suggested use of shrapnel screens and magnets, and frequent oil changes and filter inspections for decades
(repeatedly seeing the majority of the metallic trash , from cam & lifter or valve train parts failures, trapped before its embedded in the bearings)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/magnets.120/#post-49772
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-shrapnel-screens.1458/#post-22845
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
I AM hoping so. That magnet has a 57 lb pull. Anything metal I get near it gets pulled right to it.
It's a P.I.T.A. trying to use my flywheel turning tool.
I will be inspecting those oil filters today.
It's a P.I.T.A. trying to use my flywheel turning tool.
I will be inspecting those oil filters today.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
You have made me a believer in magnets. While doing all of this oil flow testing, I observed how
the oil drained through the heads, lifter valley, and back to the pan. It's NOT just at the corners
of the heads. I am thinking that I will use these in the lifter valley:
N ?, 34# pull
The holes in the heads between my pushrod guide slots are HUGE, so I am thinking of using 10
of these Neodymium hook magnets in the lifter valley - 1 ea between each pair of pushrods and 1
each in the corners by the drainback holes, for a total of 10. Screens are already in the corner holes.
I can just slide them down through the holes and leave them stuck to the sides of the valley.
If I need to inspect them, then I will be able to pull them out by their hooks.
Also, I am going to epoxy these in the corners of the heads:
N52, 21# pull
And 1 of these will get stuck to the oil pan by the starter. The exhaust is close, so high temp needed.
SMCO, 572*F, 64# pull
I am ordering 1 of these to slip into a piece of nylon tubing so that I can insert it into the drain plug
hole and "go fishing" at each oil change:
N48, 8# pull
Here's the links to these magnets, if you are interested:
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_95&products_id=563
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_11&products_id=1087
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?products_id=1192
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?products_id=372
the oil drained through the heads, lifter valley, and back to the pan. It's NOT just at the corners
of the heads. I am thinking that I will use these in the lifter valley:
N ?, 34# pullThe holes in the heads between my pushrod guide slots are HUGE, so I am thinking of using 10
of these Neodymium hook magnets in the lifter valley - 1 ea between each pair of pushrods and 1
each in the corners by the drainback holes, for a total of 10. Screens are already in the corner holes.
I can just slide them down through the holes and leave them stuck to the sides of the valley.
If I need to inspect them, then I will be able to pull them out by their hooks.
Also, I am going to epoxy these in the corners of the heads:
N52, 21# pullAnd 1 of these will get stuck to the oil pan by the starter. The exhaust is close, so high temp needed.
SMCO, 572*F, 64# pullI am ordering 1 of these to slip into a piece of nylon tubing so that I can insert it into the drain plug
hole and "go fishing" at each oil change:
N48, 8# pullHere's the links to these magnets, if you are interested:
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_95&products_id=563
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_11&products_id=1087
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?products_id=1192
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?products_id=372
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=3_27&products_id=251 (prefered)
or
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DX06SH&cat=167
(acceptable) you always need to read through the fine print as to temperature range on magnets
use these, magnets linked above, in the lifter gallery and oil drain areas in the cylinder heads, and if you want too, the corners of the oil pan, the normal Neodymium magnets loose strength when subjected to high heat the ones listed ,especially the cobalt magnets are designed to operate under high heat conditions, you certainly don,t want metallic crap that was formally functional Neodymium magnets, that have lost the magnetism loose in the engine, you don,t need a great deal of pull strength, what you need is a way to trap and hold micro fine metallic crud from wear issues and preventing, that crap from getting embedded in bearings or causing wear in moving valve train components
use of a large magnet on the base of the longest oil filter that will fit with the required clearance is a good idea, as it helps trap much of the metallic debris , in the filter,and the increased surface area on the filter case adds a tiny bit of extra cooling surface and room for extra filter medium, but remember heat from headers or exhaust pipes near the filter also
effects magnets
Ive used the extended length WIX filters for decades with good results
you generally have to look up the number or ask the parts counter guys,
to look up the longer length version filter numbers,
but Ive always felt it was worth the time to get the longer filter,
and minimal extra cost to use them
Id also suggest you install a long higher capacity oil filter if you have the clearance to do so, as both the extra oil capacity and the fact that the larger oil filter with its greater surface area constantly exposed to outside air flow, (especially if you have an oil filter finned cooler) can in many cases reduce oil temps 5 degrees or more
clip on a decent magnet to the base of a long oil filter helps it trap metalic trash more effectively, and while $29 may sound high its good extra insurance that potentially reduces the chances of metalic debis from getting to the bearings and valve train.
consider the cost of bearing replacement?
http://www.magnet4sale.com/n42-3od-x-1id-x-1-2-neodymium-rare-earth-ring-magnet/
or
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DX06SH&cat=167
(acceptable) you always need to read through the fine print as to temperature range on magnets
use these, magnets linked above, in the lifter gallery and oil drain areas in the cylinder heads, and if you want too, the corners of the oil pan, the normal Neodymium magnets loose strength when subjected to high heat the ones listed ,especially the cobalt magnets are designed to operate under high heat conditions, you certainly don,t want metallic crap that was formally functional Neodymium magnets, that have lost the magnetism loose in the engine, you don,t need a great deal of pull strength, what you need is a way to trap and hold micro fine metallic crud from wear issues and preventing, that crap from getting embedded in bearings or causing wear in moving valve train components
use of a large magnet on the base of the longest oil filter that will fit with the required clearance is a good idea, as it helps trap much of the metallic debris , in the filter,and the increased surface area on the filter case adds a tiny bit of extra cooling surface and room for extra filter medium, but remember heat from headers or exhaust pipes near the filter also
effects magnets
Ive used the extended length WIX filters for decades with good results
you generally have to look up the number or ask the parts counter guys,
to look up the longer length version filter numbers,
but Ive always felt it was worth the time to get the longer filter,
and minimal extra cost to use them
Id also suggest you install a long higher capacity oil filter if you have the clearance to do so, as both the extra oil capacity and the fact that the larger oil filter with its greater surface area constantly exposed to outside air flow, (especially if you have an oil filter finned cooler) can in many cases reduce oil temps 5 degrees or more
clip on a decent magnet to the base of a long oil filter helps it trap metalic trash more effectively, and while $29 may sound high its good extra insurance that potentially reduces the chances of metalic debis from getting to the bearings and valve train.
consider the cost of bearing replacement?
http://www.magnet4sale.com/n42-3od-x-1id-x-1-2-neodymium-rare-earth-ring-magnet/
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Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
So I'm looking for the SH = (Super High Temperature) designation if using Neodymium, correct?
The holes in the heads measure 3/4" wide, so I can fit a 5/8" dia magnet through there. Is this the right one?
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DA2SH
But I prefer the SMCO with their 572*F temp rating.
The holes in the heads measure 3/4" wide, so I can fit a 5/8" dia magnet through there. Is this the right one?
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DA2SH
But I prefer the SMCO with their 572*F temp rating.
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DA2SH
I used those for several years with good results
I swapped to the type below recently due to the higher heat range capacity
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=3_27&products_id=254
http://www.magnet4sale.com/samarium-cobalt-discs/
I used those for several years with good results
I swapped to the type below recently due to the higher heat range capacity
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=3_27&products_id=254
http://www.magnet4sale.com/samarium-cobalt-discs/
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