8
87vette81big
Guest
Next paycheck I am going to order some of those magnets Grumpy.
Quality engine parts don't come in plain white boxes!
- Thread starter Loves302Chevy
- Start date
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Do you think they will stay in place stuck to the lifter valley between the pairs of pushrods?
I'm editing the oil filter photos now. Coming next.
I'm editing the oil filter photos now. Coming next.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
In return for all your good advice, if this engine actually works out, I'll pay for them.
And Grumpy, get the hats & t-shirts made so I can make a donation to this site.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Grumpy said they will stay put.
He J-B Welds them just to be sure.
I haven't tried myself yet.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Thanks.
You don't have to Loves 302.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Oil filter inspections. The 1st filter was the K&N and was used for a total of 100 minutes.
The 2nd filter was the Mobil 1 and was used for 50 minutes. Both had the Neodymium
ring magnet stuck to their ends. The K&N filter shows some shiny (non-metallic flakes)
trapped by the filter media. I believe these flakes to be the plating from the 8 new rocker
arms. I could not find any debris in the Mobil 1 media.
In both filters, you can see where the ring magnet was, and there is metallic debris there.
MAGNETS WORK!
I ran my retrieving tool magnet through the drained oil and got essentially nothing.
Today, I looked through the lifter bores to inspect the piston skirts, especially below the
failed cam lobe. From what I could see, they look fine.
The 2nd filter was the Mobil 1 and was used for 50 minutes. Both had the Neodymium
ring magnet stuck to their ends. The K&N filter shows some shiny (non-metallic flakes)
trapped by the filter media. I believe these flakes to be the plating from the 8 new rocker
arms. I could not find any debris in the Mobil 1 media.
In both filters, you can see where the ring magnet was, and there is metallic debris there.
MAGNETS WORK!
I ran my retrieving tool magnet through the drained oil and got essentially nothing.
Today, I looked through the lifter bores to inspect the piston skirts, especially below the
failed cam lobe. From what I could see, they look fine.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Looks Ok Like you have shown Loves 302.
I think you will be Ok.
Install the New Isky Cam & Lifter set.
I myself would probably ROLL INSTALL NEW Main & Rod bearings in.
The crankshaft stays in the block & heads and intake manifold stay bolted down.
I have Rolled bearings in many times.
Its done on the Heavy Diesel Engine Repair side often still.
On automotive side in the past.
Not amymore today.
Todays mechanic is remove and replace including entire engines.
I think you will be Ok.
Install the New Isky Cam & Lifter set.
I myself would probably ROLL INSTALL NEW Main & Rod bearings in.
The crankshaft stays in the block & heads and intake manifold stay bolted down.
I have Rolled bearings in many times.
Its done on the Heavy Diesel Engine Repair side often still.
On automotive side in the past.
Not amymore today.
Todays mechanic is remove and replace including entire engines.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
I started flushing the engine out today using kerosene. Everything looks great so far.
I will strain what comes out of the oil pan to inspect the debris. If I find more crap
then I think I should, then I will drop the oil pan and inspect the oil pump & bearings.
For the final flush, I can either use kerosene or diesel fuel. Which is closer to oil?
After I am satisfied that the engine is clean, then I will do 1 more flush and run the oil
pump and rotate the engine by hand. I'll have to remember to put an oil filter on - betcha
I forget!
I will strain what comes out of the oil pan to inspect the debris. If I find more crap
then I think I should, then I will drop the oil pan and inspect the oil pump & bearings.
For the final flush, I can either use kerosene or diesel fuel. Which is closer to oil?
After I am satisfied that the engine is clean, then I will do 1 more flush and run the oil
pump and rotate the engine by hand. I'll have to remember to put an oil filter on - betcha
I forget!
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Does anyone know where to get one of those tools to use your torque wrench to measure valve spring pressures?
I also have one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-68283.html that
I might be able to use along with it.
Torque range: 29.5 to 147.6 ft. lbs. (40 to 200 NM).
I might not be able to use it for the valve open pressures, but it should at least be good for seat pressures.
I also have one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-68283.html that
I might be able to use along with it.
Torque range: 29.5 to 147.6 ft. lbs. (40 to 200 NM).I might not be able to use it for the valve open pressures, but it should at least be good for seat pressures.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
OH, now I understand what you meant by ROLL Install.
87vette81big: Remember this?: I usually run the cam manufacturer's lifters, but I think I would rather
use Delphi tappets with their chilled-iron faces, given the reduced zinc & phosphorous in today's oil.
You replied:
LOOK TO USE ONLY ISKENDERIAN OR CROWER LIFTERS.
DEFINATE MADE IN THE USA.
OR CRANE. LUNATI OK TOO
ALL OTHERS MADE IN CHUNA.
87vette81big, Feb 12, 2014
YOU TOLD ME SO!
If I have to drop the oil pan, does anyone know of a semi-circular screen-type of windage tray
that will work with my stock 84 TransAm oil pan - PASS side dipstick. I'm stuck with using it
because of frame clearance issues. I am using the longest oil filter that I can fit and I'm also using
an oil cooler and preluber. So with all of this and the hoses, I hold about 6 quarts of oil.
I do have the GM Z28/LT1 windage tray in there, which is nothing more than a splash shield.
I modified the tray for the pass side dipstick.
I found these: http://stores.ebay.com/Speedway-Motors-Company?_dmd=2&_nkw=chevy+windage+tray
and this Canton: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canton-Racing-Products-20-908-Pro-Plus-Windage-Tray-/172057153941?fits=Make:Chevrolet&hash=item280f67d195:g:rosAAOSwnipWamh0&vxp=mtr
The M & R bearings I used, say "King Silicon Alecular Bearings - Minimized debris embedment, SI bearings are unplated and bored, hard-particle debris is instantly flushed through the bearing and filtered out of engine rather than scoring the crankshaft and causing long term damage."
Hopefully, the debris that I had just passed through without any damage.
87vette81big: Remember this?: I usually run the cam manufacturer's lifters, but I think I would rather
use Delphi tappets with their chilled-iron faces, given the reduced zinc & phosphorous in today's oil.
You replied:
LOOK TO USE ONLY ISKENDERIAN OR CROWER LIFTERS.
DEFINATE MADE IN THE USA.
OR CRANE. LUNATI OK TOO
ALL OTHERS MADE IN CHUNA.
87vette81big, Feb 12, 2014
YOU TOLD ME SO!
If I have to drop the oil pan, does anyone know of a semi-circular screen-type of windage tray
that will work with my stock 84 TransAm oil pan - PASS side dipstick. I'm stuck with using it
because of frame clearance issues. I am using the longest oil filter that I can fit and I'm also using
an oil cooler and preluber. So with all of this and the hoses, I hold about 6 quarts of oil.
I do have the GM Z28/LT1 windage tray in there, which is nothing more than a splash shield.
I modified the tray for the pass side dipstick.
I found these: http://stores.ebay.com/Speedway-Motors-Company?_dmd=2&_nkw=chevy+windage+tray
and this Canton: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canton-Racing-Products-20-908-Pro-Plus-Windage-Tray-/172057153941?fits=Make:Chevrolet&hash=item280f67d195:g:rosAAOSwnipWamh0&vxp=mtr
The M & R bearings I used, say "King Silicon Alecular Bearings - Minimized debris embedment, SI bearings are unplated and bored, hard-particle debris is instantly flushed through the bearing and filtered out of engine rather than scoring the crankshaft and causing long term damage."
Hopefully, the debris that I had just passed through without any damage.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Use only Isky Brand Lifters with Your Isky Cam.
End of story there.
Kerosene or off Road Red Diesel Fuel can be used to flush the engine.
You can use Marvel Mystery oil too..Buy it in the 1 gallon container.
The truth I have witnessed 1st hand is that Hard bearings don't allow foreign debris to pass through .
Its often too large of particles and damage to the crankshaft journals is immanent.
With a soft bearing the large particles are trapped in the soft metal lead and the lead alloy moves over slightly and trapped underneath. All you see is the lead bearing if removed. If you scratch with your fingernail the foreign debris dirt is worked to the surface.
Characteristic of Clevite P series and V Bearings. And NOS VANDERVELL MADE IN ENGLAND ENGINE BEARINGS.
End of story there.
Kerosene or off Road Red Diesel Fuel can be used to flush the engine.
You can use Marvel Mystery oil too..Buy it in the 1 gallon container.
The truth I have witnessed 1st hand is that Hard bearings don't allow foreign debris to pass through .
Its often too large of particles and damage to the crankshaft journals is immanent.
With a soft bearing the large particles are trapped in the soft metal lead and the lead alloy moves over slightly and trapped underneath. All you see is the lead bearing if removed. If you scratch with your fingernail the foreign debris dirt is worked to the surface.
Characteristic of Clevite P series and V Bearings. And NOS VANDERVELL MADE IN ENGLAND ENGINE BEARINGS.
8
87vette81big
Guest
I don't where to get that Digital seat pressure tester.
I have and use a Moroso on the head valvespring tester.
And I have and use a Benchtop RIMAC Valvespring Tester.
I have and use a Moroso on the head valvespring tester.
And I have and use a Benchtop RIMAC Valvespring Tester.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Milodon Windage trays are nice.
On my Pontiac V8 455's. , I use the factory 1965-69 Full length windage trays. They were used on all 389, 421, 400, & 428 engines.
I modify lightly by adding extra drain return holes.
On my Pontiac V8 455's. , I use the factory 1965-69 Full length windage trays. They were used on all 389, 421, 400, & 428 engines.
I modify lightly by adding extra drain return holes.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
You missed the date, Feb 12, 2014.
I will be calling Ron soon. I'm buying ISKY cam & lifters.
Diesel fuel is closer to motor oil than Kerosene.
That "diamond stripper"(not a Milodon) windage tray says, "Screen style oil windage tray for S/B Chevy
engines using a stock style pan with rear sump. Ready to install. Fits 2 or 4 bolt main blocks. Fit standard
"medium" journal blocks which would be typical of late 302, 305, 307, 327 and 350 blocks."
The windage tray studs are already there. For $35.00, it's worth a try. And it's Stainless Steel.
Here is the valve spring tester I was thinking about:
I will be calling Ron soon. I'm buying ISKY cam & lifters.
Diesel fuel is closer to motor oil than Kerosene.
That "diamond stripper"(not a Milodon) windage tray says, "Screen style oil windage tray for S/B Chevy
engines using a stock style pan with rear sump. Ready to install. Fits 2 or 4 bolt main blocks. Fit standard
"medium" journal blocks which would be typical of late 302, 305, 307, 327 and 350 blocks."
The windage tray studs are already there. For $35.00, it's worth a try. And it's Stainless Steel.
Here is the valve spring tester I was thinking about:
8
87vette81big
Guest
I almost bought a valvespring tester like that before I broke down and decided to buy my RIMAC Benchtop valvespring compressor .
What you have pictured is only accurate as the Old Beam style torque wrench used. Its just a basic Ok. Not professional accurate like a Rimac.
Yours shown is what GM Mechanics used 1955-1971. Shown in Vintage GM Shop Manuals.
The price of your Vintage Kent Moore is very affordable . $25-50 on ebay when they show up.
RIMAC Like mine cost $400-1000 depending upon Spring load capacity model and condition.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...now-going-to-be-a-400.7804/page-25#post-44312
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ld-that-is-now-going-to-be-a-400.7804/page-26
you can fabricate a very effective windage tray for oil control like BUSTERRM DID HERE
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ld-that-is-now-going-to-be-a-400.7804/page-26
you can fabricate a very effective windage tray for oil control like BUSTERRM DID HERE
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
BUSTERRM really did a nice job fabricating that windage tray. That gives me good ideas.
But I'm going to see how that stainless steel "Milodon copy" fits my pan first. Only $35.00.
Therefore, I will be dropping the oil pan, and I will inspect the oil pump and bearings. I
drained and strained the kerosene I used yesterday to flush the engine. I found 1 very
small, shiny speck of glitter - probably from the chrome that was flaking off my dipstick.
Looking good so far. I will be flushing the oiling system with diesel fuel tomorrow.
But I'm going to see how that stainless steel "Milodon copy" fits my pan first. Only $35.00.
Therefore, I will be dropping the oil pan, and I will inspect the oil pump and bearings. I
drained and strained the kerosene I used yesterday to flush the engine. I found 1 very
small, shiny speck of glitter - probably from the chrome that was flaking off my dipstick.
Looking good so far. I will be flushing the oiling system with diesel fuel tomorrow.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
I did not take any pics because there was no debris to show. I used a super fine mesh paint
strainer with one of those reinforced "tech wipes", can't remember the actual brand name,
inside of the strainer. I could not find my coffee filters. When I got NOTHING the first time,
I strained it again and found the 1 speck.
The engine is still on the stand. It does double duty because I converted it into a run-in stand.
I'll get a few good pics of that when I'm ready to try it again with the new ISKY cam & lifters.
I do have a question about the "black baby powder" I found in the drain oil. I'm editing those
photos now.
strainer with one of those reinforced "tech wipes", can't remember the actual brand name,
inside of the strainer. I could not find my coffee filters. When I got NOTHING the first time,
I strained it again and found the 1 speck.
The engine is still on the stand. It does double duty because I converted it into a run-in stand.
I'll get a few good pics of that when I'm ready to try it again with the new ISKY cam & lifters.
I do have a question about the "black baby powder" I found in the drain oil. I'm editing those
photos now.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_126391-968-11114/12FF_1z0wd7b__?productId=1008383&pl=1
if you only want to spend a dollar lowes sells four strainers for 98 cents , but buy a case they are cheaper that way
250 for under $30
http://www.gleempaint.com/cone-paint-strainers.html
almost any auto paint store and most hardware stores sell these disposable throw away paint strainer filters , that cost about 20-35 cents each, or a bit less in bulk packs, honestly I don,t see why most guys don,t invest the few dollars or so it takes for a couple high temperature rated magnets and a couple filters to verify the crud thats circulating in your oil, decent filters
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-magnets-dia-1-2x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608f-temperature/
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Gerson-GER-10921-Paint-Strainer-125-Micron-Synthetic-Filter/47507885
if you buy by a case, paint strainers for checking oil trash content come in 100, or 250 pack cartons, and can be had for under 15 cents each
heres a helpful diagnostic tool,(the oil filter cutter pictured below) and yes I still cut open the oil filters and inspect the filter element on my cars oil filter [/color]
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...king-how-other-people-might.11959/#post-56957
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66490/overview/
many magnets lose their magnetic pull if heated to 200F
these below won,t
proper magnets trap metallic debris
SmCo Samarium Cobalt Disc Magnets
http://www.magnet4less.com/
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_...ucts_id=254&osCsid=ckl4nevgdrmireotnegg7jcf36
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-magnets-dia-1x3-8-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/
Samarium Cobalt MAGNETS HELP
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-disk-magnet-dia-1x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/
magnets are ceramic and glass hard, don,t try to drill or grind them, as they can shatter
and obviously having a decent quality longer length oil filter with a great deal of high quality surface area filter medium won,t hurt either
obviously check which longer oil filter will fit your particular application
Purolator number is 4631
(Fram PH8A or Wix 51515
if you only want to spend a dollar lowes sells four strainers for 98 cents , but buy a case they are cheaper that way
250 for under $30
http://www.gleempaint.com/cone-paint-strainers.html
almost any auto paint store and most hardware stores sell these disposable throw away paint strainer filters , that cost about 20-35 cents each, or a bit less in bulk packs, honestly I don,t see why most guys don,t invest the few dollars or so it takes for a couple high temperature rated magnets and a couple filters to verify the crud thats circulating in your oil, decent filters
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-magnets-dia-1-2x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608f-temperature/
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Gerson-GER-10921-Paint-Strainer-125-Micron-Synthetic-Filter/47507885
if you buy by a case, paint strainers for checking oil trash content come in 100, or 250 pack cartons, and can be had for under 15 cents each
heres a helpful diagnostic tool,(the oil filter cutter pictured below) and yes I still cut open the oil filters and inspect the filter element on my cars oil filter [/color]
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...king-how-other-people-might.11959/#post-56957
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66490/overview/
many magnets lose their magnetic pull if heated to 200F
these below won,t
proper magnets trap metallic debris
SmCo Samarium Cobalt Disc Magnets
http://www.magnet4less.com/
http://www.magnet4less.com/product_...ucts_id=254&osCsid=ckl4nevgdrmireotnegg7jcf36
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-magnets-dia-1x3-8-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/
Samarium Cobalt MAGNETS HELP
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-disk-magnet-dia-1x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/
magnets are ceramic and glass hard, don,t try to drill or grind them, as they can shatter
and obviously having a decent quality longer length oil filter with a great deal of high quality surface area filter medium won,t hurt either
obviously check which longer oil filter will fit your particular application
Purolator number is 4631
(Fram PH8A or Wix 51515
Last edited: