Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
No, but I have these numbers from the 4" bore versions of my heads with similar porting: Use the numbers on the right.
Gotta start getting ready for work tonight.
Quality engine parts don't come in plain white boxes!
- Thread starter Loves302Chevy
- Start date
Gotta start getting ready for work tonight.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Again, I waited as long as I could for Ron to call (1:15 PST).
Tonight is my Monday and I work nights. So now mine and Ron's schedules will completely conflict.
Sorry, but I have better things to do.
Tonight is my Monday and I work nights. So now mine and Ron's schedules will completely conflict.
Sorry, but I have better things to do.
8
87vette81big
Guest
I read on my bearing thread You don't have a Cellphone Loves 302 ?!
Go to Wally World Walmart and buy a Straight Talk Go phone & Prepaid card.
$50.00 bucks Dammit.
No contract.
End the phone anytime you want.
Under $100 get a decenent Android Phone to get onto Grumpys site anytime anywhere .
Just $45 per month phone card to buy.
No one to Mother Fick you like those big cellphone companies do.
Also Ron can leave you a message on your cellphone when he calls you back if you don't answer immediately .
Brian R.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
This would be one of the few times that a cell phone would be handy for me. Otherwise, it's
a nuisance. I don't want to be carrying around a GPS. It took me a lot of years to not be bothered
by junk mail and telemarketers.
a nuisance. I don't want to be carrying around a GPS. It took me a lot of years to not be bothered
by junk mail and telemarketers.
8
87vette81big
Guest
You can shut off the GPS on the Phone.
Its works with Google Services.
Phone still functions and get onto Grumpys site to hang out with him.
We planted a Tracking Device on Bam Bam. His secret gay lover did so.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Good to know.
I'm laughing my ass off. Maybe we can use that tracking device to send a drone ..... Especially if he's visiting with Hillary.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
So instead of waiting for a phone call, I went to the ISKY site and contacted Technical Support. I wrote up
the situation regarding these junk lifters. Hopefully, someone will get back to me, because I plan to order their
CL201264 cam, lifter, & rev lube kit. But I need to speak with someone first, before I order. Their price is
$248 - Summit does not have the kit and would total $317 for the individual pieces.
the situation regarding these junk lifters. Hopefully, someone will get back to me, because I plan to order their
CL201264 cam, lifter, & rev lube kit. But I need to speak with someone first, before I order. Their price is
$248 - Summit does not have the kit and would total $317 for the individual pieces.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Richard (tech support at ISKY) answered my questions via email.
Their lifters are the Johnson type.
ISKY 264 Mega cam, 202-HY lifters, 235D springs, and Rev-Lube are ordered.
Their lifters are the Johnson type.
ISKY 264 Mega cam, 202-HY lifters, 235D springs, and Rev-Lube are ordered.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
I received my order today. The ISKY website said that 202HY anti-pump lifters with the snap rings
come with this camshaft, and I received their 222HY stock replacement lifters with the wire retainers. I
called ISKY and they will honor exchanging for the 202HYs, but they will be changing the ad because they
said that the anti-pumps are not required with cams below 280* duration. What should I do?
I would sleep better at night just from having the snap rings.
It seems that the deck is stacked against flat-tapppet camshaft survival these days, so I want whichever is
going to work the best. And LAST!
come with this camshaft, and I received their 222HY stock replacement lifters with the wire retainers. I
called ISKY and they will honor exchanging for the 202HYs, but they will be changing the ad because they
said that the anti-pumps are not required with cams below 280* duration. What should I do?
I would sleep better at night just from having the snap rings.
It seems that the deck is stacked against flat-tapppet camshaft survival these days, so I want whichever is
going to work the best. And LAST!
Ive used both, styles in the past with good results but if you feel the snap ring retention design is superior than by all means get those,, and yes from a mechanical strength stand point theres no contest the snap ring design retention is at least in theory stronger as it has far more surface area resisting the clip coming loose,
but I would point out that the quality of the machine work , the type of lubricants used,
the metal alloy in both cam and lifters, the components heat treatment
valve train clearances, valve train geometry
oil system modifications
and several other factors are much more likely to be the cause or prevention of a cam/lifter failure.
READING THE LINKS AND SUB LINKS WILL HELP
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lifter-to-increase-oil-flow.11152/#post-49968
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ear-articles-you-need-to-read.282/#post-52473
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-668
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/
but I would point out that the quality of the machine work , the type of lubricants used,
the metal alloy in both cam and lifters, the components heat treatment
valve train clearances, valve train geometry
oil system modifications
and several other factors are much more likely to be the cause or prevention of a cam/lifter failure.
READING THE LINKS AND SUB LINKS WILL HELP
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lifter-to-increase-oil-flow.11152/#post-49968
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ear-articles-you-need-to-read.282/#post-52473
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-668
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
I will exchange them for the 202HYs. Besides, I want to order a big can of their new formula rev-lube.
http://iskycams.com/cart/rev-lube-c-50.html
New Formula Isky RevLubeTM with XP-2000 Prevents Dry Start-Up and virtually eliminates engine main/rod bearing, camshaft and gear wear by treating these surfaces with a proprietary, heat-activated, extreme pressure chemical barrier. RevLubeTM offers absolute maximum protection during engine break-in (the critical mating-in period of virgin metal surfaces), because its microscopic smoothing action effectively redistributes loading over a wider surface area. Used as directed, RevLubeTM delivers unequaled protection for cam lobes, bearings, lifters, distributor drive gears, tiing chains/gears, wrist-pins, rocker arms, valve stems/guides and pushrod ends.
I will never run this style of lifter again. Yes, I got burned by import knock-offs,
but I read where that these knock-offs were being exchanged for the real thing. So if you are the
next guy to buy these and end up with the box that was just exchanged - you are now screwed!
This has been bothering me for a while. Why should there be more clearance between the retainer to seal
than coil bind, where the spring now effectively becomes a solid chunk of metal? Things will surely break if this happens.
You don't want contact in either area, but if the valve spring stacks solid, I think that would be much worse than if the
bottom of the retainer kissed the valve seal.
1 more question: I have 30 bottles of Howard's Max ZPM additive - very similar to ZDDPlus. Z 60,000 Ph 42,000 Moly
10,000. I plan to use this for the pour-in additive. Should I use 1 or 2 bottles?
http://www.competitionproducts.com/...Camshaft-Break-In-Lube-4oz/productinfo/99000/
http://iskycams.com/cart/rev-lube-c-50.html
New Formula Isky RevLubeTM with XP-2000 Prevents Dry Start-Up and virtually eliminates engine main/rod bearing, camshaft and gear wear by treating these surfaces with a proprietary, heat-activated, extreme pressure chemical barrier. RevLubeTM offers absolute maximum protection during engine break-in (the critical mating-in period of virgin metal surfaces), because its microscopic smoothing action effectively redistributes loading over a wider surface area. Used as directed, RevLubeTM delivers unequaled protection for cam lobes, bearings, lifters, distributor drive gears, tiing chains/gears, wrist-pins, rocker arms, valve stems/guides and pushrod ends.
I will never run this style of lifter again. Yes, I got burned by import knock-offs,but I read where that these knock-offs were being exchanged for the real thing. So if you are the
next guy to buy these and end up with the box that was just exchanged - you are now screwed!
This has been bothering me for a while. Why should there be more clearance between the retainer to sealthan coil bind, where the spring now effectively becomes a solid chunk of metal? Things will surely break if this happens.
You don't want contact in either area, but if the valve spring stacks solid, I think that would be much worse than if the
bottom of the retainer kissed the valve seal.
1 more question: I have 30 bottles of Howard's Max ZPM additive - very similar to ZDDPlus. Z 60,000 Ph 42,000 Moly
10,000. I plan to use this for the pour-in additive. Should I use 1 or 2 bottles?
http://www.competitionproducts.com/...Camshaft-Break-In-Lube-4oz/productinfo/99000/
8
87vette81big
Guest
My Vote is 2 bottles poured in.
See how Grumpy Votes.
Follow all of Grumpys Valvetrain assembly Blueprint links to the T.
No if ands or butts.
I bought my Big container of ISKY MOLY REV LUBE Direct from Summit Racing a few months back.
Enough for all the engines I want to build in 2016.
See how Grumpy Votes.
Follow all of Grumpys Valvetrain assembly Blueprint links to the T.
No if ands or butts.
I bought my Big container of ISKY MOLY REV LUBE Direct from Summit Racing a few months back.
Enough for all the engines I want to build in 2016.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Crane. Isky. Crower are the Best.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
I have always used EOS and the Crane Superlube. Here are the numbers I found on the internet:
The Z & P concentrations of EOS are only about 1/10 of Howard's
and ZDDPlus, and the Crane Superlube has an assload of Phosphorus only. That is why I bought the
Howard's additive - it has Z, P, & Moly. They recommend one 4 ounce bottle for up to 6 quarts of oil
at each oil change, so that is why I'm thinking of using 2 for the break-in.
10W30 oil right? (Grumpy is gonna send all those links again) What brand do you prefer for break-in?
87vette - 202HY (anti-pump) right?
The Z & P concentrations of EOS are only about 1/10 of Howard'sand ZDDPlus, and the Crane Superlube has an assload of Phosphorus only. That is why I bought the
Howard's additive - it has Z, P, & Moly. They recommend one 4 ounce bottle for up to 6 quarts of oil
at each oil change, so that is why I'm thinking of using 2 for the break-in.
10W30 oil right? (Grumpy is gonna send all those links again) What brand do you prefer for break-in?
87vette - 202HY (anti-pump) right?
pre-spraying all bearing and valve train components with a moly based spray, helps embed micro moly lubricants in the metallic surface micro fissures , a good paste lube like cranes assembly lube over the spray surface helps insure a good lubricant surface coating, that is far stronger than just the ZINC and PHOSPHATES in oil
8
87vette81big
Guest
I use 2 bottles od GM EOS on a fresh flat tappet cam engine.
1St bottle poured over the cam & lifters.
1St bottle poured over the cam & lifters.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
New Formula Isky RevLubeTM with XP-2000 IS NOT for flat-tappet camshafts.
Continue to use their black Rev-Lube.
I am exchanging the lifters for the anti-pump 202HYs.
Continue to use their black Rev-Lube.
I am exchanging the lifters for the anti-pump 202HYs.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
What would be the minimum clearance recommended between the rod bolts and the windage tray?
I have clearance using a plastic cable tie (ty-rap), as a gauge (.047" thick).
I am using the adjustable Milodon studs.
My crank's counterweights end up about 7/16" away from the screen.
I'm using the SS tray in the first photo.
And I have seen the beautiful tray that BUSTERRM fabricated.
I have clearance using a plastic cable tie (ty-rap), as a gauge (.047" thick).
I am using the adjustable Milodon studs.
My crank's counterweights end up about 7/16" away from the screen.
I'm using the SS tray in the first photo.And I have seen the beautiful tray that BUSTERRM fabricated.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
When I installed my cam bearings, I set the front bearing with the oil holes at the
2 & 6 o’clock on position, but learned later that the best placement is 10 & 2 o’clock.
The rest of the set I got right. Can I carefully remove this bearing and re-install it
with the correct clocking? I don't want to buy an entire set for just the front bearing.
2 & 6 o’clock on position, but learned later that the best placement is 10 & 2 o’clock.
The rest of the set I got right. Can I carefully remove this bearing and re-install it
with the correct clocking? I don't want to buy an entire set for just the front bearing.
YES YOU CAN REMOVE AND RE-INSTALL THE CAM BEARING
first PULL ALL THE OLD CAM bearings and INSTALL new ones so you can remove crud trapped behind them
and rod out all the oil passages.
instructions in links below as to oil hole clocking
theres a GROOVE under the cam bearing so oil will enter at any location PROVIDED you get it installed correctly front to back so the oil feed holes line up with the groove under the bearing BUT look at this, you will want to support the cam with maximum oil wedge under the cam bearings, remember the bearings are NOT interchangeable in all locations
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=939&p=1582#p1582
If your installing your own cam bearings you want to clean the oil passages out first carefully,look for the blocks oil feed holes, read the instructions, and pay attention during the process and if if the cam bearing your using seams to be loose spend the $20 for a new set , of cam bearings rather than chance it coming loose.
one more reason to buy a cam bearing install tool.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/
usual cost of about $32
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-A ... /?rtype=10
the cheaper tool pictured above works fine, but I never saw one for sale decades ago
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL96470/?rtype=10
I bought a used tool,
( ONLY USED ONCE IF YOU BELIEVE THE SELLER) at a swap meet 40 years ago that looked similar to this for $70
http://www.cpooutlets.com/lisle-180...ap=lisn18000&gclid=CIum95iqhcsCFQUIaQodk3YDfw
http://www.lislecorp.com/uploads/instructions/18000_WebInstr_CC56DD9726DB5.pdf
first PULL ALL THE OLD CAM bearings and INSTALL new ones so you can remove crud trapped behind them
and rod out all the oil passages.
instructions in links below as to oil hole clocking
theres a GROOVE under the cam bearing so oil will enter at any location PROVIDED you get it installed correctly front to back so the oil feed holes line up with the groove under the bearing BUT look at this, you will want to support the cam with maximum oil wedge under the cam bearings, remember the bearings are NOT interchangeable in all locations
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=939&p=1582#p1582
If your installing your own cam bearings you want to clean the oil passages out first carefully,look for the blocks oil feed holes, read the instructions, and pay attention during the process and if if the cam bearing your using seams to be loose spend the $20 for a new set , of cam bearings rather than chance it coming loose.
one more reason to buy a cam bearing install tool.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-A ... /?rtype=10
the cheaper tool pictured above works fine, but I never saw one for sale decades ago
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL96470/?rtype=10
I bought a used tool,
( ONLY USED ONCE IF YOU BELIEVE THE SELLER) at a swap meet 40 years ago that looked similar to this for $70
http://www.cpooutlets.com/lisle-180...ap=lisn18000&gclid=CIum95iqhcsCFQUIaQodk3YDfw
http://www.lislecorp.com/uploads/instructions/18000_WebInstr_CC56DD9726DB5.pdf
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